+1 
missed 3-4, ticking
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From: NM, 6-8,000DA land :(
missed 3-4, ticking UPDATE
I just finished changing out the pushrods and the ticking noise is still there. it's a very fast paced ticking a pprrrr sound. I don't know what else could be the problem. It's really loud when I decelerate, and if i push in the clutch it goes away.
can u guys offer some suggestions of what it could be?
thank u in advance
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k, so I searched and came to the conclusion that I probably bent a pushrod.
I was at the track and missed the 3-4 shift, lets just say my foot was faster with the clutch than my hand with the shifter. anyways I didn't notice anything after I missed it, but the run right after that I started to notice a ticking noise when I was slowing down. so now, I can faintly hear ticking when I accelerate. and I can really hear it ticking ( really loud high pitched prrrrrrr ) when I am slowing down, decelarating. If I push in the clutch though the sound goes away.
I just finished changing out the pushrods and the ticking noise is still there. it's a very fast paced ticking a pprrrr sound. I don't know what else could be the problem. It's really loud when I decelerate, and if i push in the clutch it goes away.
can u guys offer some suggestions of what it could be?
thank u in advance
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
k, so I searched and came to the conclusion that I probably bent a pushrod.
I was at the track and missed the 3-4 shift, lets just say my foot was faster with the clutch than my hand with the shifter. anyways I didn't notice anything after I missed it, but the run right after that I started to notice a ticking noise when I was slowing down. so now, I can faintly hear ticking when I accelerate. and I can really hear it ticking ( really loud high pitched prrrrrrr ) when I am slowing down, decelarating. If I push in the clutch though the sound goes away.
Last edited by WS6_00; Nov 8, 2008 at 04:59 PM.
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This is why we upgrade our valvetrain...
If you are lucky, the pushrod is bent. If you are unlucky, potential broken spring is possible in your future, lifter damage... etc
Go grab some stockers from someone that's done a cam swap and put them in your car.
If you are lucky, the pushrod is bent. If you are unlucky, potential broken spring is possible in your future, lifter damage... etc
Go grab some stockers from someone that's done a cam swap and put them in your car.
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From: NM, 6-8,000DA land :(
I can't install the pushrods myself, I don't have the technical know-how. I will order some chrome moly pushrods and have a local shop do it I guess. Is there anything else I should upgrade while I'm doing the pushrods? springs? if so.. which. thanks for the replies guys.
I can't install the pushrods myself, I don't have the technical know-how. I will order some chrome moly pushrods and have a local shop do it I guess. Is there anything else I should upgrade while I'm doing the pushrods? springs? if so.. which. thanks for the replies guys.
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thats like saying you shouldn't use a computer unless u can build one.
I've been reading up on how to do it, Just haven't found the answers on how to put the rockers on, in the correct order, and turning the engine over to TDC or whatever I have to do for each one etc..
ok so all the threads I'm pulling up don't mention anything about top dead center. But I have a question. If I remove the rockers, will the springs come up with them?? revealing the pushrods? if so i'll try it myself.
Also, when torquing the rockers to 22ft/lbs. can I just unplug the plugs and injectors and turn the motor over like that to recheck the torque?
I've been reading up on how to do it, Just haven't found the answers on how to put the rockers on, in the correct order, and turning the engine over to TDC or whatever I have to do for each one etc..
ok so all the threads I'm pulling up don't mention anything about top dead center. But I have a question. If I remove the rockers, will the springs come up with them?? revealing the pushrods? if so i'll try it myself.
Also, when torquing the rockers to 22ft/lbs. can I just unplug the plugs and injectors and turn the motor over like that to recheck the torque?
Last edited by WS6_00; Sep 27, 2008 at 10:53 PM.
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Friend of mine just recently done this on his 29k miles LS1 Z28.... ended up bending 6 pushrods and also took a toll on the valves to, ended up having to takes his heads to a shop and get them worked also...
Hope yours aint this bad...
Hope yours aint this bad...
I think what was meant by the poster above is that you shouldn't race your car if you're unable to either pay to have it fixed when it breaks, or know how to do it yourself.
Breaking things is the price you pay for racing. It's a case of finding the weakest link most of the time, and drag racing will show what's the weakest link.
To change the pushrods, remove the coil packs, then the valve covers, then take the valve cover, flip it over, and take off the rocker arms placing them in the valve cover. Now the pushrods will come out.
If you are stock internals, there's no real reason to replace valve springs, but stay off the rev limiter because the limiter is hard on valvetrain parts. The rev limiter is to your valvetrain what wheel hop is to your drivetrain. It can kill it pretty quickly if you're not careful.
Breaking things is the price you pay for racing. It's a case of finding the weakest link most of the time, and drag racing will show what's the weakest link.
To change the pushrods, remove the coil packs, then the valve covers, then take the valve cover, flip it over, and take off the rocker arms placing them in the valve cover. Now the pushrods will come out.
If you are stock internals, there's no real reason to replace valve springs, but stay off the rev limiter because the limiter is hard on valvetrain parts. The rev limiter is to your valvetrain what wheel hop is to your drivetrain. It can kill it pretty quickly if you're not careful.
I think what was meant by the poster above is that you shouldn't race your car if you're unable to either pay to have it fixed when it breaks, or know how to do it yourself.
Breaking things is the price you pay for racing. It's a case of finding the weakest link most of the time, and drag racing will show what's the weakest link.
To change the pushrods, remove the coil packs, then the valve covers, then take the valve cover, flip it over, and take off the rocker arms placing them in the valve cover. Now the pushrods will come out.
If you are stock internals, there's no real reason to replace valve springs, but stay off the rev limiter because the limiter is hard on valvetrain parts. The rev limiter is to your valvetrain what wheel hop is to your drivetrain. It can kill it pretty quickly if you're not careful.
Breaking things is the price you pay for racing. It's a case of finding the weakest link most of the time, and drag racing will show what's the weakest link.
To change the pushrods, remove the coil packs, then the valve covers, then take the valve cover, flip it over, and take off the rocker arms placing them in the valve cover. Now the pushrods will come out.
If you are stock internals, there's no real reason to replace valve springs, but stay off the rev limiter because the limiter is hard on valvetrain parts. The rev limiter is to your valvetrain what wheel hop is to your drivetrain. It can kill it pretty quickly if you're not careful.
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k, thanks for all the replies guys. I will try to attempt this since I don't have to touch the springs. once i get some probably stock pushrods then my car will be good to go. thanks again 
check the lifters maybe? When you pulled the valve covers, did you check that all the rockers are torqued to 22lbs? You can see if a lifter is collapsed by torquing the rockers to 22lbs and if after that there is still play in the rocker its probably a lifter.
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Also when you did the pushrods, did you notice if any of the rocker arms whee damaged? Did you notice if any of the needle bearings in the rocker arms where missing? Any visual damage to the valve stems or springs.