2000dreambird

whats the best plugs to run in my LS3 once its in my TA and ready to run im thinking NGK but which ones its got ported L92's and a LG cam 114 LSA??

2000dreambird

??????????????

Danny

iTrader: (16)

I would use the NGK TR55. I've used NGKs for years with no problems and they're cheap. So replacing them is like $25 for the set.

ClubPlug.net

Hi 2000dreambird

I think it should be the TR5 and not the TR55, the TR55 have a larger gap setting.

TR5 V-Power Plug, 14mm Thread Size, 17.55mm (.691") Reach, 5/8" (16mm) Hex Size, Tapered Seat, Resistor, Removable Terminal Nut, Projected Tip, V-Power (V-Grooved Center Electrode), .040" (1.02mm) Gap, Heat Range 5

TR55 V-Power Plug, 14mm Thread Size, 17.55mm (.691") Reach, 5/8" (16mm) Hex Size, Tapered Seat, Resistor, Solid Terminal Nut, Projected Tip, V-Power (V-Grooved Center Electrode), .060" (1.52mm) Gap, Heat Range 5

If you want something that will last longer so you don't have to change them sooner, you can always upgrade to the Iridium version TR5IX

But the old fashion copper TR5 will do the trick.

Sales2@Texas-speed

iTrader: (5)

^^Not the best advice!

OP: You'll want the wider gap! We typically on the NA combos gap them .050-.055" for the best performance, and GM did from the factory as well!

Danny

iTrader: (16)

The TR5 is for a stock or near stock engine. He has heads/cam so the TR55 is the one he needs.

Sales2@Texas-speed

iTrader: (5)

TR5 and TR55 are the same plug, heat range and all, just with a different nut on the end and a different gap!

Danny

iTrader: (16)

You're right on that. I was just recommending the TR55 since it already has a .55" gap VS the TR5 having a .40" gap. You should never change the gap on the plugs by much.

00nbmz28

iTrader: (11)

I would atleast run a 6 heat range, no reason not to. Doesn't hurt anything and you have a less chance of detonation

ClubPlug.net

Hi Guys

Since we are talking about "Gaps".

A properly gapped plug will be wide enough to burn hot, but not so wide that it skips or misses at high speeds, causing that cylinder to drag, or the engine to begin to rattle.

As a plug ages, and the metal of both the tip and hook erode, the gap will tend to widen; therefore experienced mechanics often set the gap on new plugs at the engine manufacturer's minimum recommended gap, rather than in the middle of the specified acceptable range, to ensure longer life between plug changes. On the other hand, since a larger gap gives a "hotter" or "fatter" spark and more reliable ignition of the fuel-air mixture, and since a new plug with sharp edges on the central electrode will spark more reliably than an older, eroded plug, experienced mechanics also realize that the maximum gap specified by the engine manufacturer is the largest which will spark reliably even with old plugs and will in fact be a bit narrower than necessary to ensure sparking with new plugs; therefore, it is possible to set the plugs to an extremely wide gap for more reliable ignition in high performance applications, at the cost of having to replace or re-gap the plugs more frequently, as soon as the tip begins to erode.

Sales2@Texas-speed

iTrader: (5)

Understood and I agree

2000dreambird

also remember that i'm not running the LS1 anymore im running a LS3 with ported L92's and a LG cam with a 114 LSA

Sales2@Texas-speed

iTrader: (5)

What compression ratio?

2000dreambird

not sure off the top of my head,, the block, internals, and heads are coming from you guys.

Sales2@Texas-speed

iTrader: (5)

Stock LS3 short-block, or a stroker?

2000dreambird

stock

Sales2@Texas-speed

iTrader: (5)

TR55's and be done.

2000dreambird

gapped as is or?

Sales2@Texas-speed

iTrader: (5)

I'd go .050" to start.

2000dreambird

whats your take on breaking the motor in when it is ready to go, someone said warm it up to temp, them cool it re-torque the heads and headers, after that put 500 miles on it change the oil (using joe gibbs) put 1000 miles on it then change it to mobile 1 then baby it for the first 5000 taking care not to hold at any one RPM,option to was to warm it to temp, re-torque then get it on a dyno an rev it to 7000RPM 10-15 times to seat the rings,,,,, whats you opinion