Crankcase Evacuation System....
Crankcase Evacuation System.... A lil details on the Build before we start..
427ci NA, Ls7 Top end,11.4:1CR, 247/255 .670 .670 112+4
3in TSP True Duals w DynaMax Bullet BLOW THREW style mufflers
Im looking into running a Crankcase Evac System like this
http://www.google.com/imgres?num=10&...9,r:0,s:0,i:72
This is all using after market sealed Valve covers w NO pcv nipple vents and a sealed oil cap
BUT instead of using there ugly big and bulky Oil Separator/Breathers (on the far right on the pic in the link)..
1. My Ls7 Valley cover has the 3/8 nipple w the baffle box on the under side of it, cut out the 3/8 nipple and go to a larger 1in nipple w a baffle or some sort so it cant suck oil.
2. From the 1in Nipple run a hose that Y's to 2 5/8 hoses down to each header weld in Nipple bung w the Moros check valves
In return your rings should seal better as the exhaust gases passing the weld in chck valves at WOT this should created Vacuum as in before the motor never creates any at WOT.
I know it says dont use w mufflers cause the back pressure will shut the valves in the exhaust but w a blow threw style bullet muffler and not a chambered muffler I dont see them being a prb...
Further If i Decide to run this system after more R&D I going to install a boost/vac gauge in the line going to the chck valves and see how much if any Vacuum this pulls at WOT, and to make dam sure theres no positive pressure feedback and at Throttle % and WOT
If anyones tried this please post your results im stupid curious right now lol
427ci NA, Ls7 Top end,11.4:1CR, 247/255 .670 .670 112+4
3in TSP True Duals w DynaMax Bullet BLOW THREW style mufflers
Im looking into running a Crankcase Evac System like this
http://www.google.com/imgres?num=10&...9,r:0,s:0,i:72
This is all using after market sealed Valve covers w NO pcv nipple vents and a sealed oil cap
BUT instead of using there ugly big and bulky Oil Separator/Breathers (on the far right on the pic in the link)..
1. My Ls7 Valley cover has the 3/8 nipple w the baffle box on the under side of it, cut out the 3/8 nipple and go to a larger 1in nipple w a baffle or some sort so it cant suck oil.
2. From the 1in Nipple run a hose that Y's to 2 5/8 hoses down to each header weld in Nipple bung w the Moros check valves
In return your rings should seal better as the exhaust gases passing the weld in chck valves at WOT this should created Vacuum as in before the motor never creates any at WOT.
I know it says dont use w mufflers cause the back pressure will shut the valves in the exhaust but w a blow threw style bullet muffler and not a chambered muffler I dont see them being a prb...
Further If i Decide to run this system after more R&D I going to install a boost/vac gauge in the line going to the chck valves and see how much if any Vacuum this pulls at WOT, and to make dam sure theres no positive pressure feedback and at Throttle % and WOT
If anyones tried this please post your results im stupid curious right now lol
Last edited by 1999FirehawkLS1; Jun 5, 2012 at 02:37 AM.
Your link doesnt work, but you can cut the nipple off the valley cover, have a -10 or -12AN bung welded in its place, use that as your vent and tee it to some headers if you're really so inclined to do so.
What do -AN fittings have to do with stainless braided hose besides nothing? You can put whatever kind of hose you want into the fitting, it just ensures it isn't going to leak. As nice as your build looks, no reason to half *** it at this point.
This is besides the point on what type of hose, but the nipple coming out pointing up and to the pass side head light my plan if i do it was to run the hose back over on top of the motor laying along on the inside of the valve cover and along the intake and it will get covered up by my katech coil relocation kit im going to install this wk and hide it, I cant imagine bend a SS Braided hose that big and getting it clean looking thats all
This is besides the point on what type of hose, but the nipple coming out pointing up and to the pass side head light my plan if i do it was to run the hose back over on top of the motor laying along on the inside of the valve cover and along the intake and it will get covered up by my katech coil relocation kit im going to install this wk and hide it, I cant imagine bend a SS Braided hose that big and getting it clean looking thats all
I know this, and this is all besides the point on hose type and going back and forth about off topic comments on 2 diff post of mine is getting tiresome and not providing any input on the subject.
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I' ve thought about using the exhaust mounted check valves also. The old school drag cars used them for years( cheaper then a vacuum pump) The air injection for the cats uses the same basic idea. It should help. The longer and more restrictions in the exhaust the less vacuum it will pull. Mufflers, tail pipes, and bends. Most cars use them with open headers and short collectors.
I thought about mounting them in the rear O2 sensor bungs. That way I could just screw them in and they could be easily removed if they don't work well. Another thought was if they pull too much oil it may coat the front O2 sensors.
Post back your results.
I thought about mounting them in the rear O2 sensor bungs. That way I could just screw them in and they could be easily removed if they don't work well. Another thought was if they pull too much oil it may coat the front O2 sensors.
Post back your results.
Last edited by 1lejohn; Jun 5, 2012 at 07:58 AM.
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Verdad Gallardo Ya I def will, Ive read that you need to put the weld in bung almost in a header primary and not to far back away from the collector for it to pull properly and that make the o2s a prb, Im prb not gonna to run any o2s besides a wide band and theres always moving the o2 upstream in one of the primarys also..
If this is set up properly and you make sure you arnt sucking oil up from where every your tapping into your crankcase for venting and it pulls good vacuum the rings should seal better and there shouldnt be that much oil and nasty stuff blowing threw your exhaust to mess w your o2s but idk if it would mess w them or not
On a factory PCV system or stock, oil vapors go right back threw the intake to be re-burned anyways but divided into all 8 cyc threw the intake manifold. You would think the exhaust gas spds are going to be alot faster in the header primarys than air flowing threw the TB where the factory pcv gets its vacuum. This would make the piston rings seal better
If this is set up properly and you make sure you arnt sucking oil up from where every your tapping into your crankcase for venting and it pulls good vacuum the rings should seal better and there shouldnt be that much oil and nasty stuff blowing threw your exhaust to mess w your o2s but idk if it would mess w them or not
On a factory PCV system or stock, oil vapors go right back threw the intake to be re-burned anyways but divided into all 8 cyc threw the intake manifold. You would think the exhaust gas spds are going to be alot faster in the header primarys than air flowing threw the TB where the factory pcv gets its vacuum. This would make the piston rings seal better
Last edited by 1999FirehawkLS1; Jun 5, 2012 at 01:44 PM.
I' ve thought about using the exhaust mounted check valves also. The old school drag cars used them for years( cheaper then a vacuum pump) The air injection for the cats uses the same basic idea. It should help. The longer and more restrictions in the exhaust the less vacuum it will pull. Mufflers, tail pipes, and bends. Most cars use them with open headers and short collectors.
I thought about mounting them in the rear O2 sensor bungs. That way I could just screw them in and they could be easily removed if they don't work well. Another thought was if they pull too much oil it may coat the front O2 sensors.
Post back your results.
I thought about mounting them in the rear O2 sensor bungs. That way I could just screw them in and they could be easily removed if they don't work well. Another thought was if they pull too much oil it may coat the front O2 sensors.
Post back your results.
http://www.stevesnovasite.com/forums...d.php?t=139153
On my block im goin to tap the dipstick bore and use a sealing threaded dipstick.
Seal off all unused pcv ports on vc. Run lines from each vc to dp welded check valves.
will locate downstream of o2 sensors. Both factory nb and wb.
Dont see reason why it shouldnt work
Seal off all unused pcv ports on vc. Run lines from each vc to dp welded check valves.
will locate downstream of o2 sensors. Both factory nb and wb.
Dont see reason why it shouldnt work
Just noticed that this drawing is different than moroso's instructions, If u flip the weld in pipe 180 from this drawing thats how moroso shows to install theres w the slash cut tip flipped 180
Last edited by 1999FirehawkLS1; Jun 9, 2012 at 12:49 AM.
Only prb might be the area your talking about welding in the chck valve bungs..Iv read that if its not in or directly behind where the priamary goes into the collector of the header it wont wrk as well, thats why i ould move the o2s more upstream heres a drawing for ya ...
Forgot to mention its a turbo car. I also considered the primary area. But since its gonna be located on the turbo downpipe right behind the wb. I figured it should under climbing rpm. I just assumed at part and idle it would also make a difference. But wot even more.
I dont think the dp area should have too much trouble pulling the vacuum. But ive been wrong before
I dont think the dp area should have too much trouble pulling the vacuum. But ive been wrong before
Update, Kit ordered should have it on this wk end and fired back up.
Im going to give this a test run w the factory 3/8 nipple first and hook the gauge up and see what happens before opening the hole up and using a 3/4 outlet, w the intake its going to be a tight fit getting a large tube in there to clear the block around the valley and not get in the way of the intake sitting flat.
w the exhaust rushing over the weld in tubes creating vacuum pulling the vapors out, may not have to use a bigger outlet on the valley plate pcv nipple.
Im going to give this a test run w the factory 3/8 nipple first and hook the gauge up and see what happens before opening the hole up and using a 3/4 outlet, w the intake its going to be a tight fit getting a large tube in there to clear the block around the valley and not get in the way of the intake sitting flat.
w the exhaust rushing over the weld in tubes creating vacuum pulling the vapors out, may not have to use a bigger outlet on the valley plate pcv nipple.
The Valley is wide open dead space and is a much better spot w not alot going on in there.
If u pull from you dipstick hole for crankcase venting your probably going to suck out a bunch of oil.... the valley plate is the #1 spot to get crankcase venting from 2nd choice would be Valve covers, Ive read the GM Realized the Valley was a better spot and vented better than the valve covers that why all the newer stuff has a valley plate vent, I dont think the heads allow enough venting Threw them as oil is either going up and in to lube the Valve train than after, Drain back down into the pan.
The Valley is wide open dead space and is a much better spot w not alot going on in there.
The Valley is wide open dead space and is a much better spot w not alot going on in there.
Gonna bore and tap dipstick bore on block to use threaded tube and the dipstick handle also seals to tube. Wont be push in like stock. Not gonna pull from dipstick hole. I want ot threaded so it can be as airtight as possible. also got a vented valley cover.
Right on I re read it twice and just wanted to make sure I understood ya lol
hook a hose to that valley cover and try to blow in it
you may find that is quite restrictive, and i doubt you will see flow sufficient to do a good job of crank evac.
pulling from each valve cover would be unrestricted flow to each header, unfortunately much more oil will also come with it (unless you use a catch can)
i think the whole dipstick modding is a waste of time and effort to do or even discuss. it has an o-ring on it, will be just fine not that it would contribute to any measurable leak in the first place.
if you are to use any muffler at all i would not bother with the header evac kits, as they barely work in the first place.
*edit* i forgot to add another note while on my header evac soap box. your rear tires (and all the guys racing after you) will not appreciate oil being sucked out of the engine and being blown down onto them. please consider
you may find that is quite restrictive, and i doubt you will see flow sufficient to do a good job of crank evac.
pulling from each valve cover would be unrestricted flow to each header, unfortunately much more oil will also come with it (unless you use a catch can)
i think the whole dipstick modding is a waste of time and effort to do or even discuss. it has an o-ring on it, will be just fine not that it would contribute to any measurable leak in the first place.
if you are to use any muffler at all i would not bother with the header evac kits, as they barely work in the first place.
*edit* i forgot to add another note while on my header evac soap box. your rear tires (and all the guys racing after you) will not appreciate oil being sucked out of the engine and being blown down onto them. please consider
Last edited by MIGHTYMOUSE; Jun 11, 2012 at 09:50 AM. Reason: clarify