Ok did alot of searching and alot of research and could not find a good breather system I liked for my 427. Im not getting much blow by at all but I was getting some pressure build up when under high rpm. SO after reading alot about the vacuum pumps they just made more and more sense.

Big thanks to GZ for getting me my pump quickly and its a beautiful kit and has excellent fit and finish. My first impressions are WOW, cant believe I waited this long made a HUGE difference in the way the car idled (smoother) reved (Alot faster and harder) and just plain made it feel like a whole new car. I have it set for 12 inches at 7200 rpms which is my shift point. My mods are as follows

LS7 block new from sdpc drilled for the oil dipstick
Mahle forged -4cc pistons 1.5mm power pac rings
callies forged rods
forged crank
arp main and head studs
arp rod bolts
clevlite H coated bearings
LS7 MLS head gaskets
ported LS7 heads with extreme series springs, titanium valves
harland sharp modified LS7 rockers
comp cams 7.8 push rods
custom speced camshaft 24x/25x dur 65x/63x lift on a 110 think QM600 on roids!
Ported LS7 manifold
PTM 90mm throttle body
TR6 plugs gapped at .35
MSD wires
50 pound LS7 style injectors, LS7 fuel rail, 340 LPH fuel pump with racetronics wiring
1 7/8s kooks longtubes, true dual 3 inch custom made exhaust with x-scream x-pipe and magnaflow mufflers
All speed density tuned via HP tuners no MAF timing set to max of 26.5 degrees of timing with a 12.6 to AFR under WOT
innovative wideband with in car display
K&N panel filter with MTI clear lid
textralia exo skel dual disk clutch
g-force spec stage 3 T56 6 speed
custom driveshaft
Moser 12 bolt rear end with 33 spline axle detroit tru trak and 4.56 rear end gears.
NX 150 wet shot of go-go juice with NX electronic throttle switch.

For those that dont know the benefits of a vacuum pump let me share some of the things I learned

First and foremost since I do not have a PVC system anymore and all my intake ports are blocked off that means zero charge contamination by oil. If you own a LS1 based car you know all too well the problems with oil getting in the intake. Now lets move onto the next good beneifit having a negative draw in the crankcase lets the rings seal MUCH better but also helps them last much longer. An if you act now theres more lol, By removing all excess contaminants such as water vapor, acids created by oil, gas thats gotten by the rings, and other nasty stuff and getting it out of the system it keeps the oil cleaner longer and helps the bearings, rings, and all other vital parts last longer.

Now there is a down side the whole system does add 12 pounds to the front of the car and the pump at peak RPM requires about 1 to 3 horsepower to run, depending on how sealed the motor is. Extra effect that comes from using one is it acually adds horsepower the least amount they have seen is around 17 rwhp gain but on higher modded motors they have seen gains of up too 30 rwhp !!!!!!!!!!!! On a boosted car they see gains of up as high as 50 rwhp!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! WOW!!!!! They did several back to back dyno tests using a 555 cubic in rat motor running a exhaust driven pan evac which is the breathers in the valve covers with a hose going to one way valves in the headers and they tested it with just a PVC and a breather on both valve cover. The breather system with no pan evac saw the highest gains which is what i was running, the car acually gained 17 rwhp over the pan evac system which usually pulls 3-6 inches of vacuum.

The problem with just running a pvc with breathers whether you have a catch can or not is under full throttle you have no vacuum or VERY little pulling pressure from the crankcase so all that pressure slows the motor down and pushes it either into your intake or out your breathers, not good scenerio in either case.

All I can say is this is well worth it and nice to know NOTHING is getting into my intake!!!!!!!!

 

where'd you get that? link please

 

Nice set-up as long as the vac relief valve is filtered inside the breather it is mounted to. It appears to be pulling vapors out of the rear of the drivers side valve cover whick is correct & the catcg can is a breathered can which is also correct. This is the ideal setup for a big cube or FI set-up. Very similar to what we run on our alky drag engines. I'm impressed. Anyone with everything just blocked off & open hoses hanging down is subjecting there motors to a slow death. Also, make sure you do not pull more than 12-14inches of total vac at WOT or you start to pull the oil off the wrist pins & mains.

 

Tracy thanks for the props I was the one that talked to you on the phone and after talking to you, you convinced me this was the way to go thanks alot and it does seem to be doing a killer job. I have it set for 12 inches at 7200 rpm so that it causes no probs with the wrist pins getting oil. Again thank you for sharing your knowledge and taking time from work to talk to me on the phone shows what a great commitment you have and REV has to helping out us all.

The link is here

http://www.gzmotorsports.com/LSXVPK.html

 

May sound stupid, however in all honesty how much oil vapor is going to be pulled through the engine in a 10-12 second run??? How about almost none! I have a coalescing filter on my PCV system that works quite well.

Crankcase pressures may be an issue when making 2/3/4,000 hp+ but I doubt at <1,000 hp anything is to be gained. More likely the vacuum pump would scavage more hp than the net gain.

 

no, a buddy of mine had a 775hp big block bracket motor... and putting a vacuum pump on put him over 800hp.... I know vacuum pumps are worth the power.

My questions is, how streetable is this pump to be ran on the street?

 

Acually very streetable the system has been tested and ran for quite some time. I know of one guy that drives his car about 3-400 miles a week all year being he lives in arizona an he has had his vacuum pump on there for over 15000 miles with zero lose of vacuum and its working great still today. If it does begin to wear down you take it off send it to GZ and they rebuild it for 75 bucks and your good for many more thousands of miles. If you have to drive your car while its gone thats the beauty simply plug your PCV back in for a couple days.

bigdsz you remind me of a great saying "ignorance is bliss" if you want to see how much oil is being pulled in even 10-12 seconds add a catch can make sure it is empty, make the run and check for yourself. It will vary from car to car depending on condition of the motor. Mine has very little being that it is a tight new motor but I still get some and its not the oil vapors I am pulling in on WOT that I am speaking of, cus at WOT you have no vacuum to be pulling any in, but the crankcase is still building ALOT of pressure because there isnt any vacuum to vacate it. This puts stress on the motor and saps some of its power, relieve the motor of the stress and it will gain that power back. The oil vapors I am talking about are the ones you get under normal driving which on any lsx series motor is pretty significant. Any oil vapor getting into a performance motor is bad! This causes contamination to the intake charge, lowers your fuel octane, can cause detontation in severe conditions, causes deposits on valves and piston tops, and the list goes on. Trust me when I say it added a significant amount of horsepower, true my gains were from 5k and up but thats where I wanted and needed em anyway. But since you know best then by all means continue using the method you find most appealing.

 

Bandit, Google "coalescing filter". Few people are aware of them, suffice it to say they put catch cans to shame. I'm putting out 524/501 with a 9" and heavy *** Dennys Nitrous DS, still believe a vac pump is unecessary for that hp level, JMO.

 

Perhaps this will explain the point I'm trying to make.



http://www.conceptualpolymer.com/PCV...oval%20101.pdf

 

No I know very well all about those devices and while they do a VERY good job at keeping it out of your system, but some still get by. I know I have used one for quite some time, on both my turboed 800+hp 408, my F1A 408, my D1SC 408, and on my current NA 427. They are a good Im not arguing on whether they work or not, but what I am saying is they arent as good as having nothing enter at all. Now that being said let just say this system is NOT nessissary on your, my or any other car for that matter. But neither is an intercooler on a mild 5 psi turbo, or a bottle heater on a N20 kit. But what happens when you do add one a bottle warmer to the N20 system or an intercooler to the turbo??? Thats right they both add not only horsepower but better consistant performance and a safer operating system.

My 427 makes over 600 to the rear wheels and is driven daily I personally like the fact that I can run this system on my car and not worry about the oil getting into my system charge. Again that is just one of the things I enjoy by having this system on here. What your missing is that is not the reason for me even installing it. I have the LS7 valley and it was connected to the intake, I have 3 breathers on the valve covers to help get the back pressure out. Even with all three and the valley hooked up I still would push some oil out the breathers with the amount of crankcase pressure. This is what i wanted to eliminate. I Now have floored it and gone all the way through top of 3rd and no oil smell, no smoke, no back pressure of any kind in my engine, and I opened the breather tank and this is after all the runs made and driving over a few hundred miles in the last few days and I maybe had a drop of oil in there. So is it nessissary....... no probably not, but its a nice piece of mind for me.

Take a look here and maybe he can explain it a bit better http://www.dragstuff.com/techarticles/vacuum-pumps.html

 

I'll have to agree with Bandit on this one. I had a all motor 427 that I ran last year with a catch can. I checked my can periodicly and it would have about a teaspoon full of oil in it after a couple hundred miles. So I thought great, it's working like it should right? So I tore the thing down this winter for a 441 build and when I looked in my intake low and behold, small oil puddles! Catchcan works but the **** still gets buy. Traver

 

Cant wait to see this new 441 build come to life travor thats going to be so badazz!!!

 

Haven't seen any noticable get by ours. I'm sure with enough blow-by it will, but none of the installs we have....and we run them on our drag LS cars. As far as the vac pump, the amount of HP depends on the engine build & RPM it is run at. Our 1,000 hp Alky motors pick up anywhere from 15-25 on the engine dyno, but we run them to evac the moisture & unburnt fuel to save on the engine. We run 2 1/2 times the methanol per run than race gas, but make more power on the meth & run more consistant. A good vac pump system is ideal for a FI or large cube build.....and can be streetable w/a good pump. We rebuild ours every season w/new bearings (and if a bearing fails a new shaft) & replace the carbon vanes as needed.

 

Check out my vac pump that i had made by the same guy that makes my scavanging pump!Its a HTP and they make the pumps for NASCAR. Heres a few pics of it. I sold this to speedracer on here and hes instaling it now !It runs off of a longer serp belt. He'll have pics up soon of his install for you guys to check out
http://s243.photobucket.com/albums/ff160/ebarnat/pump/

 

Heres a few pics of my custom mounting bracket and the pump install
http://s243.photobucket.com/albums/f...ump%20bracket/