Johnson 2110 cup height vs ls7 lifter
Johnson 2110 cup height vs ls7 lifter Before typing why I am asking, yes I am going to measure.
Ok so, I already have lifter tick with these stupid LS7 lifters despite going with the lightweight valves, ti retainers, and cam motion cam at low rpms. Clears up at 2k, but its getting louder at low rpms so I want to swap them out before they eat my cam. I feel dumb for skimping now.
The problem is this is my DD and only car right now, so I need to do the install in 1 day. Does anyone know the difference in cup height of the two lifters? I plan to order like 3 sets of pushrods and then return 2, but I need ballpark figures first.
Right now I have LS3 heads milled .030", .040" cometic and the pushrod came out to 7.375" which gave roughly .050" preload or so.
Ok so, I already have lifter tick with these stupid LS7 lifters despite going with the lightweight valves, ti retainers, and cam motion cam at low rpms. Clears up at 2k, but its getting louder at low rpms so I want to swap them out before they eat my cam. I feel dumb for skimping now.
The problem is this is my DD and only car right now, so I need to do the install in 1 day. Does anyone know the difference in cup height of the two lifters? I plan to order like 3 sets of pushrods and then return 2, but I need ballpark figures first.
Right now I have LS3 heads milled .030", .040" cometic and the pushrod came out to 7.375" which gave roughly .050" preload or so.
It's not the loud, constant tick when a lifter is already toast. It's definitely the lifter bleeding down because it clears right up with throttle. It's not constant either. So MAYBE more preload could solve it.
Worth a try? I could throw the stock pushrods in to check, but they're only .010 longer than the current ones.
Before I do that, have you experienced noisy lifters get quiet after adding more preload?
I'm thinking if I have .050, I may only have .025 when warm and that is when it is loudest. It sounds fine when cold.
I'm thinking if I have .050, I may only have .025 when warm and that is when it is loudest. It sounds fine when cold.
Just remeasured zero lash on 4 valves.
Intake: 7.262. Count the turns was about 7 or slightly less.
Exhaust: 7.275, maybe slightly less. Count the turns was 6+.
Obviously, count the turns is not as precise, but it almost matches up, so it was a good sanity check.
So with 7.375" pushrods, I have too much preload. Could this be the cause of my intermittent ticking?
I must have measured wrong since the lifters were new, they were probably moving down with the weight of the pushrod.
Intake: 7.262. Count the turns was about 7 or slightly less.
Exhaust: 7.275, maybe slightly less. Count the turns was 6+.
Obviously, count the turns is not as precise, but it almost matches up, so it was a good sanity check.
So with 7.375" pushrods, I have too much preload. Could this be the cause of my intermittent ticking?
I must have measured wrong since the lifters were new, they were probably moving down with the weight of the pushrod.
In my experience, many of the LS7 lifter failures and/or valvetrain complaints have been directly a result of improper preload setup and/or incorrect length pushrods.
I've seen many vendors sell what I would refer to as "cookie cutter" camshaft packages with 7.400" pushrods as if they're guaranteed to be the correct length. This is not the case in many instances, which can potentially lead to situations such as yours - which I'm in no means insinuating what has happened. I mean, I can legitimately have my wife order 5/16" or even 3/8" custom spec pushrods, so why not spend the money on a quality tool to ensure you have your ducks all lined up? If buying pushrods on an LS is this this easy, I feel we owe it to ourselves to at least spec them out correctly.
Measure twice, cut once, right?
From what you've explained - I believe you've answered your own question, although I am interested in knowing - is your camshaft ground on an 8620 core?
I've seen many vendors sell what I would refer to as "cookie cutter" camshaft packages with 7.400" pushrods as if they're guaranteed to be the correct length. This is not the case in many instances, which can potentially lead to situations such as yours - which I'm in no means insinuating what has happened. I mean, I can legitimately have my wife order 5/16" or even 3/8" custom spec pushrods, so why not spend the money on a quality tool to ensure you have your ducks all lined up? If buying pushrods on an LS is this this easy, I feel we owe it to ourselves to at least spec them out correctly.
Measure twice, cut once, right?
From what you've explained - I believe you've answered your own question, although I am interested in knowing - is your camshaft ground on an 8620 core?
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In my experience, many of the LS7 lifter failures and/or valvetrain complaints have been directly a result of improper preload setup and/or incorrect length pushrods.
I've seen many vendors sell what I would refer to as "cookie cutter" camshaft packages with 7.400" pushrods as if they're guaranteed to be the correct length. This is not the case in many instances, which can potentially lead to situations such as yours - which I'm in no means insinuating what has happened. I mean, I can legitimately have my wife order 5/16" or even 3/8" custom spec pushrods, so why not spend the money on a quality tool to ensure you have your ducks all lined up? If buying pushrods on an LS is this this easy, I feel we owe it to ourselves to at least spec them out correctly.
Measure twice, cut once, right?
From what you've explained - I believe you've answered your own question, although I am interested in knowing - is your camshaft ground on an 8620 core?
I've seen many vendors sell what I would refer to as "cookie cutter" camshaft packages with 7.400" pushrods as if they're guaranteed to be the correct length. This is not the case in many instances, which can potentially lead to situations such as yours - which I'm in no means insinuating what has happened. I mean, I can legitimately have my wife order 5/16" or even 3/8" custom spec pushrods, so why not spend the money on a quality tool to ensure you have your ducks all lined up? If buying pushrods on an LS is this this easy, I feel we owe it to ourselves to at least spec them out correctly.
Measure twice, cut once, right?
From what you've explained - I believe you've answered your own question, although I am interested in knowing - is your camshaft ground on an 8620 core?
My cam is ground on 8620, yes.
I ordered 7.325" pushrods, will report back after they're installed. If the ticking is still there, the heads are coming right off. Nothing is worse than that low rpm tick. I hate it. And the last thing I want to do is have to take the cam out too.
Last edited by mchicia1; Jan 18, 2016 at 12:57 PM.
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Just remeasured zero lash on 4 valves.
Intake: 7.262. Count the turns was about 7 or slightly less.
Exhaust: 7.275, maybe slightly less. Count the turns was 6+.
Obviously, count the turns is not as precise, but it almost matches up, so it was a good sanity check.
So with 7.375" pushrods, I have too much preload. Could this be the cause of my intermittent ticking?
I must have measured wrong since the lifters were new, they were probably moving down with the weight of the pushrod.
Intake: 7.262. Count the turns was about 7 or slightly less.
Exhaust: 7.275, maybe slightly less. Count the turns was 6+.
Obviously, count the turns is not as precise, but it almost matches up, so it was a good sanity check.
So with 7.375" pushrods, I have too much preload. Could this be the cause of my intermittent ticking?
I must have measured wrong since the lifters were new, they were probably moving down with the weight of the pushrod.
Installed the shorter pushrods. The off beat tick went away, so it was definitely pushrod intermittently bottoming out.
But the VT is louder overall, but at least it is harmonious now.
I was concerned installing the shorter rods, because 4 of the lifters were not coming up with the spring inside. They seem to be ok but I will keep an ear on them.
But the VT is louder overall, but at least it is harmonious now.
I was concerned installing the shorter rods, because 4 of the lifters were not coming up with the spring inside. They seem to be ok but I will keep an ear on them.
I doubt it will make a difference if .100 was terribly loud as well. I just think there is something up with 1 or 2 lifters in the batch I got.
I did order 7.350" pushrods to go with my Morel 5315 lifters that I ordered, so it may be worth a shot to put those in before pulling the heads just to see.
I did order 7.350" pushrods to go with my Morel 5315 lifters that I ordered, so it may be worth a shot to put those in before pulling the heads just to see.
Ever considered the possibility of larger lifter bore clearances bleeding off pressure that would help the plunger deal with higher spring pressures
Tried once back in the day to put a hydraulic can/lifters in an iron block that had previously run a solid roller cam. Very noisy lifters. The bores were wasted and I ended up junking the block. Different fresh block. Same hydraulic cam was quiet
Tried once back in the day to put a hydraulic can/lifters in an iron block that had previously run a solid roller cam. Very noisy lifters. The bores were wasted and I ended up junking the block. Different fresh block. Same hydraulic cam was quiet
Ever considered the possibility of larger lifter bore clearances bleeding off pressure that would help the plunger deal with higher spring pressures
Tried once back in the day to put a hydraulic can/lifters in an iron block that had previously run a solid roller cam. Very noisy lifters. The bores were wasted and I ended up junking the block. Different fresh block. Same hydraulic cam was quiet
Tried once back in the day to put a hydraulic can/lifters in an iron block that had previously run a solid roller cam. Very noisy lifters. The bores were wasted and I ended up junking the block. Different fresh block. Same hydraulic cam was quiet
Here is first weekend of cam, quiet.