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Ls3 Spun Bearing.

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Old Apr 25, 2018 | 08:11 PM
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Default Ls3 Spun Bearing.

As usual with my new motor I cant catch a break. I had the issues with the head then got it back together and had issues with tuning.

This morning i got it back on the dyno with the new torque convertor and the new holley efi.

The new cam is amazing but the power hadnt peaked at 8000 rpms. I continued to work on the tune and I bumped up the rev limiter little by little.

After one run i noticed a little bit of a knock coming from the engine. I pulled the motor out this afternoon and the number one rod bearing had spun.

So where do i go from here?

Is 8000+ rpms unrealistic with stock style oiling system?

Oil pressure was rock solid on all the runs.

Should I just stroke the motor to acheive my power goals with less rpms?

my orginal thread is here https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...-my-focus.html
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Old Apr 25, 2018 | 08:19 PM
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Needs high performance bearings in it. Could have been a oiling issue the #1 is the last to recieve oil.

Check the cam bearings and main bearings near that the same rod.
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Old Apr 26, 2018 | 10:54 AM
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Default Bearing Picture Read

Hi TS, send/post some pictures of the other bearings.

MOST here can "read" the bearings.

Did you "port" / "drill" the Oil Pan in the filter insert area ?

Lance
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Old Apr 26, 2018 | 01:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Pantera EFI
Hi TS, send/post some pictures of the other bearings.

MOST here can "read" the bearings.

Did you "port" / "drill" the Oil Pan in the filter insert area ?

Lance
I will post some pictures later.

No I didnt port the filter insert area
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Old Apr 26, 2018 | 03:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Pantera EFI
Hi TS, send/post some pictures of the other bearings.

MOST here can "read" the bearings.

Did you "port" / "drill" the Oil Pan in the filter insert area ?

Lance


The Spun Bearing



One of the "good" bearings
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Old Apr 26, 2018 | 03:50 PM
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Pretty ugly for sure. The black color leads me to think there may have been some detonation, and the "good" bearing doesn't look terrible, but there was definitely some trash going through the oil or the surface finish of the crankshaft wasn't that great.

Can you give us some details on the components (brand, part number, material, etc.) and what the oil clearances were set to on the rods and mains. How do the main bearings and caps look?

Also, what weight oil and what "habits" were used when making passes or pulls? Full temp or cold runs where viscosity/flow might have been compromised?

Be sure to check the housing bore of that rod and see if it's still round and if it is any smaller/larger than the other 7.
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Old Apr 26, 2018 | 11:55 PM
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8000 seems kinda high.
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Old Apr 27, 2018 | 10:43 AM
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Default Black Death = Bearing Failure

Hi TS, good pictures, thanks.

The Black area in the bearing center IS CAUSED by the Oil being "fried" OR burned as in a Frying Pan. (brown butter)

This, as stated by an above poster, is the result of LOW Oil Flow Volume.

I would add, inspect your Oil Pan filter insert area AND Port that area with a bypass hole added.

Lance
Attached Thumbnails Ls3 Spun Bearing.-dsc_0041.jpg  
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Old Apr 27, 2018 | 11:01 AM
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I just noticed something.

You say at 8000 RPM it hadn't reached peak power.

In the photos, I see what appear to be H-Beam Rods and forged Pistons, but I don't see the crankshaft.

Are you using "stock" rod bearings on an aftermarket crank that requires a narrowed bearing to clear the fillet radius OR are you using a stock OEM crank and "stock" rod bearings expecting them to live at 8000 RPM?

Either way, I don't see it being a reliable combination. If it's stock bearings on a stock crankshaft, the crank flex at that RPM is probably what is ultimately causing you heartburn. Either increase your component strength or lower your intended RPM.

Also, some details on the "stock style" oiling system enabling it to run 8000 RPM would be helpful.
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Old Apr 27, 2018 | 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by ColeGTO
I just noticed something.

You say at 8000 RPM it hadn't reached peak power.

In the photos, I see what appear to be H-Beam Rods and forged Pistons, but I don't see the crankshaft.

Are you using "stock" rod bearings on an aftermarket crank that requires a narrowed bearing to clear the fillet radius OR are you using a stock OEM crank and "stock" rod bearings expecting them to live at 8000 RPM?

Either way, I don't see it being a reliable combination. If it's stock bearings on a stock crankshaft, the crank flex at that RPM is probably what is ultimately causing you heartburn. Either increase your component strength or lower your intended RPM.

Also, some details on the "stock style" oiling system enabling it to run 8000 RPM would be helpful.

It is a stock ls1 crankshaft.

I am using a melling standard flow oil pump.
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Old Apr 28, 2018 | 07:36 AM
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Stock crank will flex at that rpm and take out the bearings.
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Old Apr 28, 2018 | 09:49 AM
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Default Cast/Steel Crankshaft Flex

Hi TS, YOUR pictures ARE VERY clear, NO sign of Fillet Contact.

AGAIN, bad "tech" as a Steel crankshaft WILL Flex a greater amount then a Cast crankshaft, just ask Jake. (our metal engineer)

I have MEASURED crankshaft flex with MY ECU-882C and MY 60-2 TW (58x) BOTH Steel/Cast.

The Oil Pressure for 8K RPM should be 100 psi with 80 Psi min seen on the gauge, Data Logger ?

Lance
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Old Apr 28, 2018 | 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Pantera EFI
Hi TS, YOUR pictures ARE VERY clear, NO sign of Fillet Contact.

AGAIN, bad "tech" as a Steel crankshaft WILL Flex a greater amount then a Cast crankshaft, just ask Jake. (our metal engineer)

I have MEASURED crankshaft flex with MY ECU-882C and MY 60-2 TW (58x) BOTH Steel/Cast.

The Oil Pressure for 8K RPM should be 100 psi with 80 Psi min seen on the gauge, Data Logger ?

Lance
According to my data log my oil pressure is falling off to about 50psi.


Also what is the probability that the rod bolts stretched? should i be running L19 bolts?
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Old Apr 28, 2018 | 12:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Pantera EFI
Hi TS, YOUR pictures ARE VERY clear, NO sign of Fillet Contact.

AGAIN, bad "tech" as a Steel crankshaft WILL Flex a greater amount then a Cast crankshaft, just ask Jake. (our metal engineer)

I have MEASURED crankshaft flex with MY ECU-882C and MY 60-2 TW (58x) BOTH Steel/Cast.
So your saying a material with a higher tensile/yield strength will bend MORE? I don't agree. The forged steel crankshaft will have the ability to bend more before breaking (ductility is higher in forged vs. cast steels), but the point at which it starts bending will be at a higher load than a cast crankshaft.

Originally Posted by Pantera EFI
The Oil Pressure for 8K RPM should be 100 psi with 80 Psi min seen on the gauge, Data Logger ?

Lance
There is no way you need 80 psi minimum let alone 100 psi to turn 8000 RPM. That's just a waste of HP. I have turned 8400 RPM for 200+ passes with a mere 65 psi. Bearings looked brand new when removed. SBC with Callies 4340 forged crank.

In summary, you're saying all these endurance and drag motors with forged crankshafts and 60 psi oil pressure turning 8000+ RPM should have blown up long ago? Doesn't make sense. What about a billet steel crankshaft, where does that rate in your scale of capabilities?
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Old Apr 28, 2018 | 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by topspeed1
According to my data log my oil pressure is falling off to about 50psi.


Also what is the probability that the rod bolts stretched? should i be running L19 bolts?
I think the big end of the rod will distort long before your rod bolts will "stretch". If that were the case, then you'd see more than one bearing showing signs of trouble. I really don't think an L19 bolt would have done you any good. Besides, those definately are not the best choice for a street engine where extended oil change intervals are required. The L19 material is VERY sensitive to moisture from handling as well as the acids that build up in oil over time.

How long has your engine been together and how much run time, passes, dyno pulls, etc. do you think you have on it? Any tuning problems along the way? How much knock retard have you seen? Not just during recent tuning, but all prior tuning as well where it may have been damaged previously and progressively gotten worse until failure.

50 psi at 8000 is not really that big of a concern if you have enough oil flow and the correct viscosity with enough temperature in the oil before you turn that kind of RPM.

I'd go back and measure ALL components (crank journals for size, roundness and taper), rod big end (size, roundness, taper), bearing crush, oil clearances, crank straightness across all mains, etc. I think this will shed some light on your issues.

Regardless, get rid of the stock crank if you want to turn that kind of RPM and develop a better oiling system to ensure consistent oil supply at that RPM.
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Old Apr 30, 2018 | 01:26 PM
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Looking at buying either a 10295 or a 10296 oil pump. Should i be using a high pressure pump?
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Old Apr 30, 2018 | 04:31 PM
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Originally Posted by topspeed1
Looking at buying either a 10295 or a 10296 oil pump. Should i be using a high pressure pump?
Spinning it to 8K, I would recommend looking into a Blueprinted oil pump from a company that specialize in them.

I was looking into a company called Precision Oil Pumps.

Something else I wanted to point out. Look at this graph posted by a vendor in this thread.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...l#post18902513

Last edited by 1FastBrick; Apr 30, 2018 at 05:43 PM.
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Old May 1, 2018 | 08:20 AM
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The specs on that second bearing pic looks like you had a cavitation problem. That may or may not have anything to do with the other bearing spinning though, but it isn’t good. Pretty much inherent with this style of oiling system at that RPM. The Melling pumps (10295/10296) do have features meant to help. Also, too little pan to pickup clearance could exaggerate the problem too.

Any pics of the main bearings?
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Old May 1, 2018 | 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by KCS
The specs on that second bearing pic looks like you had a cavitation problem. That may or may not have anything to do with the other bearing spinning though, but it isn’t good. Pretty much inherent with this style of oiling system at that RPM. The Melling pumps (10295/10296) do have features meant to help. Also, too little pan to pickup clearance could exaggerate the problem too.

Any pics of the main bearings?


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Old May 1, 2018 | 12:35 PM
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Originally Posted by 1FastBrick
Spinning it to 8K, I would recommend looking into a Blueprinted oil pump from a company that specialize in them.

I was looking into a company called Precision Oil Pumps.

Something else I wanted to point out. Look at this graph posted by a vendor in this thread.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...l#post18902513

^^^^^^^^^Absolutely a Precision high-volume pump, along with
Other Oil mods (scraper, Lance's return porting suggestion, Sac City
Barbell & Diverter is the best way to ensure Oiling /Survival at
RPMs north of 7500, short of a Real Dry-Sump System such as
Daily for example.
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