By all means.... lol.

 

They are a full bodied lifter like the gm lifters and johnsons. I like that. The LS lifter valley is like a sewer drain, some people don't want to believe that some of the cut out lifters can bleed oil pressure but I believe it. If I need to fork out for tie bar solid lifters I'm definitely buying those or the crowers that are near identical (if the online pics of the crowers are correct)

I actually already bought the drop-in tray style solid roller lifters for now, as luck would have it i found a set near new only run 1500 miles for dirt cheap.. but they haven't arrived to me yet so I can inspect them all very carefully (mainly how the rollers feel) before I decide to use them or pass. From the pics the rollers and bodies look literally like brand new no signs of wear like most roller lifters get after some time. I will see if they're good or not when they get here this week.

This is a pic of the 66278TH-16 crowers, I haven't seen a set in person and I wonder if someone can confirm if that is an actual photo of their LS lifters.. because some others online with the LS part numbers show a cut away style like the old SBC/BBC style lifters

 

That pic is identical to what I have in my possession.

 

Pics aren't the best, so you will have to analyze what I've done carefully. I cut the cowl out in one piece, and I have welded metal tabs onto it and welded M6 nuts onto those tabs. The cowl piece slides into place and the tabs sit up inside above the car body, and it bolts in with 3/4" long M6 bolts from underneath. I left approx. 1" of cowl sticking out from the firewall for it to be able to bolt on to that and the tabs to sit on.

The wiper arm and the two further most outward tabs, supports the top half well. I didn't need to add more tabs across the top of it. You wouldn't think it ends up solid from the pics but it ends up very solid when bolted back in, no flex whatsoever. And my wipers work 100% when I bolt it all back in. The last pic (with wipers in place) was taken only last year (I did the LS conversion and cowl mod in 2016)










I will just add, there's 5 metal tabs welded across the bottom of the cowl piece in total. The far left tab in the 3rd pic is hard to see hidden from the angle. But it's there. And like i said earlier those two tabs on the far edges pull it up and support the top very well, together with the wiper arm being bolted on as it acts as a support bracket that joins both pieces. The tabs also act as resting points which support the weight of the cowl piece as they lock in above the car body itself. The bolts just tighten it all up so it can't move. If you look closely at the 3rd pic, the cowl on the actual car , look at the far left and right hand sides where the cut is you can see the two holes drilled in the car body for the two furthest outside tabs to bolt down onto.

When I think I'm not going to be messing with the engine for a while, i bolt the cowl and wipers all back in. (mainly only for cops, as i don't drive the car in the rain, i don't need wipers)

How great would it have been if GM had made them this way so the cowl can be removed to work on the engine. Bolting the thing back in with the engine in the car isn't difficult. Just lock it in place and then reach underneath there with your M6 bolt in hand and wind them in one at a time. 10mm spanner gets in there on top of the engine to tighten them.

I highly recommend this modification to all 4th gen owners that modify their car and are going to be messing with the engine, if you are going to have your engine out at any point. Turns it into a 3rd gen or other typical car engine bay (almost , if it weren't for working over that 4 foot long 4th gen front snout)

If you want to run a single plane intake unbolt the cowl piece and wipers. You haven't hacked the car so it can't be put back to standard when you want it to. Once the plastic goes back on over the top, nobody would ever know the cowl had been cut. You can sell the car that way. Just make sure to seal up where the join is with sikaflex so water can't ever leak onto the engine.
.

 

They could well be repackaged crowers then. Either way who cares. Even if they're not crowers i'm sure they're equal enough in quality for cam motion to be selling them as their high end race lifter.

 

Cam motions premium high end lifters are cranes

 

If that's the case then they've just copied each other (which isn't a bad thing). Now someone has said in another thread that Johnson sells him solid tie bar lifters or the LS, even though solids are not on their site or listed anywhere for the LS. So Johnson could be making them like they do for the SBC/BBC etc, at request for the LS. If they are, I think their design is the best. Because it's a full body lifter but the roller wheel on the Johnsons is even covered, like an oem LS lifter. With the oem/ Johnson covered wheel design, as the lifter comes up in it's bore, there's more surface area of lifter body to contact the lifter bore, which apparently creates less lifter and lifter bore wear at the bottom side. Maybe not a big enough deal to say it's a requirement, to have the roller wheel covered like an oem lifter, but it's definitely not a bad thing.

 

Hey if the design aint broke dont fix it

 

They are made by the guys who used to be Crane. It's not Crane. It's a small shop in Florida.

 

Does Crane still exist?

 

Yeah. Although, I don't know if it's the original ownership. I believe that's why the valvetrain guys moved on, but don't know for sure.

I thought Crane went bankrupt in 2012. So it's likely the original Crane is no more and a venture capitalist bought the name and continues to manufacture parts at the Olive Branch, MS location.

 

OK thanks!

 

Goodies starting to arrive!


Port work picture inside the MSD

Rawkers! 1.8, adjustables. if I'm lucky my current pushrods will work. They were longer than normal, so I'm a little concerned that I'll need to order more, but I'll deal with it if it happens.

Stealth mod so worth it!!! nice and clean.

 

This is gettin' SERIOUS!!

 

I used trickflow 3/8 pushrods, cheap and sturdy , want the adjuster nut to be within 2 turns of all the way up. More study.
I only have about .015 of adjustablilaty in .mine they so close but sturdy.

 

If the pushrods are too long it's nothing a belt sander can't fix that intake looks good with the stealth mod.

 

Parts look good.
​Look forward to seeing this thing up and running.

 

Thanks! It is running now. I do not tear down until it is time. Non running cars suck.

 

Crane is under the comp umbrellas

 

I hope that's a good thing!