With all the fresh oil in the port do you think you might need a vacuum pump or what are you using for a PCV? I see you said manifold was dry. Or do you think it is coming in the the bolt holes from the rocker arms. I use ARP thread seal on my Dart BBC heads.

 

I run a vacuum pump. The hole in that runner is over a quarter inch. Vacuum pump will not stop that from venting into the runner unless I gear it to overdraw the crankcase at high rpm.

That said I run the GZ sportsman. Might need the bigger one for 440 vs 346?

 

My Ls3 heads have the same thing with the studs being tap'ed or drilled into the runner.

Guy asking does Darth have a Vaccum pump.
Does the car you have, Have oil in it?

 

Real thread stick with it.. New guy asking


Btw happy Christ Weekend 😁 2 all you ***** 🤣.

1Time.

 

maybe pull the 2 nostrils off but put a 4" bell mouth just in side the box?

 

I've been debating on going to an aftermarket eco setup as well. My stock gauges couldn't keep up with the old LS7 setup. I'll keep a close eye on this thread as I have been now that it looks like it'll be active again.

 

For sure. At least until it's completed (as if any hot rod is ever completed).

So, the head came back off, and I got a good look at the patch from both sides, poked and prodded a bit. The hole is actually about the size of a round toothpick. The majority of the patch is still there. The hole does not go straight through. I can find it on both sides, but I cannot get anything all the way through, because the hole is zig-zagged. Right now, best guess is that the duct tape that was used as a bottom for the original hole on the port side had a loose fiber, and the epoxy cured around it. Then, as the motor was run, the fiber burned off, leaving a small, weirdly shaped hole. The good news is the existing patch is very solid, as I am unable to dislodge it without resorting to some pretty extreme measures, like putting a screwdriver in there and hammering on it. The patch also is shaped in such a way that it is very well "keyed" into the hole. Mechanically, I don't think it would come out without either breaking apart or being drilled out.

Investigating options, but I truly believe building up the back of the port with epoxy and then also smoothing out the port side would seal it permanently. I'm mulling over it for a couple of days before I do anything. If I were to try this and it still doesn't work, then I'll drill it out, thread it, run a 1/8 npt plug in from the back, and grind it smooth. But either way, she'll be back on the road. in relatively short order. Anxiously awaiting HP kit so I can get that sorted while deciding how best to handle the head.

FWIW - I did find a short cut for the driver's side head. Without the V bands, you typically have to drop the X and all kinds of stuff to pull a head and it's frustrating. I pulled the steering shaft and loosened the collector clamp. This allowed me to rotate the header toward the fender, giving access to the lower head bolts, and saved me hours of dicking around on the exhaust.

 

I confirmed the leak by filling the port with acetone with the head off and watched it leak out the back. Epoxy sandwich over the hole. Built up the back side pretty heavily. Let cure for 24 hours. Hammered on it some, then leak tested it, and it held acetone leak from for twenty minutes, at which point, I dumped it out. I think the repair will work.

Moved on to the wiring. Gonna let the head sit another day or two just to make sure. Got the stock harness completely out and have started the conversion to make the stock ecu run the started, fuel pump, cooling fans, etc, as well as keep the gauges working until I can go back in and do it right.

Enough BS back to work.

 

I'll get the holley 58t harness sent out Tuesday as soon as I get home.

 

Awesome. Your 48x will be on the way today.

I should finish the harness modifications today as well. I never deleted the AC box, and I know I need to, but damn I really don't want to pull the dash to get it, as my dash is still original and I KNOW it will crumble. But I also can't extend my harness to install UCE in the rear either. ugh.

 

Darth you just need 1 more post to be at 10,000 posts.

 

Darth just quite LS1 tech. We'll miss him

 

LOL. was saving the 10,000th post for something meaningful not "lol" or "done". burned it in a gen 3 thread...

 

Gen 3........ WTF darth i mean that stuff is obsolete lol

 

Welcome to the 10k club

 

Yeah, 1999 called and wants its F body back...

 

Sorry for being a dick but i'm just gonna say what i believe more than just me are thinking! Why are you going to cut corners and half *** this head instead of fixing it right? Did you not already try this path and end up with this outcome?? Sorry man, i know i don't even know you but it doesn't seem like you lol. Just saying. Ok done with the vent......carry on

 

You got nothing to apologize for, and if that was enough to **** me off, either I'm in the wrong hobby or I don't have enough problems.

I really did struggle with this, and had I not got a recommendation from a really solid engine builder, it would already be drilled out and tapped for a pipe plug. I'm gonna give it another hammer test now that it's had a few days to cure, and if it does anything, it's getting drilled out. There is a part of me that wanted to try to fix it myself, you know?

 

I've seen "half ***" stuff make over 2000hp naturally aspirated and run low 6's in the quarter. There is always more than one way to do something, and there was nothing wrong with that repair.

 

That's cool man. Just not something i would do i guess. I hate redoing stuff because of (corner cutting) and i guess i already proved my point as to why i would call this half assing ****. He already is reworking the same issue that wasn't addressed right the first time. I own a business i guess and whats not good for my customers carries the same weight for me. Just me i guess.... to each his own.