Another question i have is , has anyone used a 2010- ls3 water pump on the ls2 or ls1. It has the outlet on the opposite side to earlier pumps.

 

Good points there.
The spring pressures we are running are not crazy high though.
And the lobes are not extreme either.
At the same time it's good insurance to use a high quality oil.
Would you get more life out of that driven oil before it needs to be changed?
Can you get it cheap?

 

mayb Chevelle can answer the HOw long between oil changes... I'll ask my head guy in Ballarat if he'll give a discount on bulk buy
i think you don't get as much life out of it due to less detergents

 

Perfect.
Let me know by PM what price you can get a bulk buy.
I am interested.

​​​​​​What viscosity are you going to use?

 

We should have the same clearances roughly . By drivens temp and bearing clearances charts a 5w30 or 10w40. I used 10w40 last time so I'll stick with it. When I hit the track I'll use the 15w50...
your builder will tell you what oil weight to use

 

i sent my builder a bearing clearance chart so he can tell me.
I was looking at the 10w 40 myself.
I think the 30 weight is too thin for ls engines

 

Weight of the oil is determined by your clearances your builder uses. Definitely have the builder tell you what to use weight wise. We use 10w-30. Most of the guys I race with use regular Rotella T 15w-40 oil for diesel engines. Very reasonable and no one that I have seen has had any failures due to that oil. Best part is you can buy it anywhere. After going to a seminar, and seeing a private test group test ten different oils Is how I made my choice. And they were not affiliated with any of them.That Shaffer oil pictured was the only oil they could not get to fail. The failure was time based. Most tested didn't make it fifteen minutes. The rest were within 30. They started the test all at the same time slowly increasing the load on a bearing. The Shaffer was still going till they shut it off an hour later. They pulled it apart because we all couldn't believe it, and the bearing was still like brand new. Thats why I cant bring myself to use Rotella T. Plus the fact when we went to freshin up our motor this year everything still looked brand new after spraying the **** out of it all year. Before the LS I always used Brad Penn in my SBC's. Never had a problem with that oil. A lot of the dirt track guys I know use it.

 

Mr Turtle Huh LOL Nice one Mate

 

Oh. It looks like turtle.
Lol.

 

The diesel oils are going to be better due to the regs allowing near twice the zzdp... What clearances is your builder using Bortous

 

I use fuchs 'truck plus' diesel 15/40 in all my ls1's. I had my intake valley removed from the camaro a few weeks ago for the single plane swap, and my cam lobes (the ones that i could see through the holes in lifter vally), they looked literally brand new, not even one fine scratch. I have been shifting the camaro at 7400-7500 since 2016, and latest at 7800rpm with the super vic intake, still on the factory hydraulic lifters. It burns no oil and the oil doesn't turn to tar or sludge either like i seen a lot of car oils do. The 15/40 keeps the inside of the engine like new. I'm not one bit concerned with the ability of this oil, i've seen enough.
High end expensive race oils also work, so i have no problem with those either. I just stick with the 15/40 because it is working well for me. I will be using the exact same 15/40 diesel oil in my LS2 build when it's finished, and i have already 10k in parts on that engine and still going. And i plan to shift it at 8000rpm (if not higher if i decide to change from the 24x 0411 pcm).

My current 5.7 ls1 engine in the camaro was removed from a 100+k mile WH statesman. I bought it at wreckers for $1200 complete with wiring loom and pcm back in 2014. I initially installed it in another car, just unopened and tuned with bolt-ons. I later removed it and fitted to my camaro in mid 2016 and i did cam/timing chain/pushrods/springs swap, and the external bolt ons, that's it. Still on the stock bottom end and lifters. Since then it has been through hell with the 15/40 diesel oil, many 7400-7500rpm wot shifts.

It still won't die even after i've been shifting at 7800rpm. (excuse the IAC valve whistling noise from the 4150 throttle body, this was the first start after the new single plane set up installed last month. The IAC is now sorted) Only vid i've posted so far as i'm not much into posting public vids online of in car runs, and you all know why. Even this was filmed in Mexico, LOL....

 

That I cannot answer because I don’t daily drive my Chevelle. I’ve only logged 2300 miles since completion in 2015. The 434 has only got 800 miles on it. Trying to break in my new F-Body Magnum transmission, so I’m doing a little better than normal as of lately. I have too little time and too many toys.

 

I've read that the Rotella doesn't like very high rpms. That it starts to foam up. I have a buddy that used it for one oil change on his high revving (7600rpm) LS7 and then started having oil pressure/bearing issues. May or may not be related.

 

lmfao

 

Will find out soon.

 

Hey Mick
What do you think of ULX oil?

https://ulx110.com.au/

 

First time ive seen that oil, but reading specs of it, its got an API, which has to meet standards and that takes out all the good stuff we want

 

I was looking at my clutch discs today and thought i may as well buy new ones, im using a mantic twin plate ceramic clutch. Clutch lasts 2 yrs or so
Ive been told that i can only buy a rebuild kit and its $1300 for 2 discs and 2 floater plates. I emailed mantic and was told they'd sell me the disc's individually, thought awesome should be $500 tops. Rang supplier, who rang mantic, who rang me back with a price, $1140 for 2 clutch disc's WTF. lol ....hahahahah
I have emailed summit about the new tilton clutch and availability/cost of replacement disc's. I think it'll be more cost effective to just buy the tilton clutch and also one of there slave cylinders, which if using oem i have to change whenever gearbox comes out ($240 for new concentric slave)

 

A little off topic but i have a 454 LS2 with darton wet sleeves, i studied everything i could for over a yr about using the wet sleeve and still got it wrong. To much power , twisting the block and not holding the head down.
Today i emailed Steve at R.E.D about the possibilty of saving this block . Id like to save it so i have matching numbers for my car. The maker, holden is finished, thanks GM lol
Steve gave me a few ways i can get it to work , use motor plates , which wont work for me. Strap from left hand head to chassis rail , no guarantee it'll hold up.
I,d really like to save it but i think ill have to accept Steves recommendations .
Im waiting on a reply if a 4.125 bore wet sleeve can be installed, if so ill use the 4,125 bore sleeves , fill block to water inlet/outlet, use front, middle and rear motor plates, big turbo and throw it in my ski boat, if i cant use 4.125 ill use the 4.185 sleeve in same fashion and run it NA.
Wonder if i can buy a new block with original numbers stamped.

 

Im trying to calculate the cc of my piston. If im correct cc's are cubic centimeters So if i measure depth of dish and depth of valve reliefs and work out the cubic centimeters that is my CC's
Am i correct in this method???