I had the black car up on Facebook for a week and had a guy hit me up about it over the weekend. They drove down from South Carolina and picked it up, I'm glad that its gone and I can focus on the red car!

 

What is the small fuel cell in the front going to be used for? Also what did those 2 pieces weigh in the pictures. I can't make out what it says on the scale. Do you know the total weight you cut out of that roof? Really interested in the actual weight reduction after the new roof is installed. Roof turned out killer. Great job.

You sell the other car?

 

Updating the posts, for some reason my phone keyboard wouldn't pop up last night. The fuel cell in the front is the main fuel tank for the car, I know the outlet fittings would be more ideal if they were on the back side. I don't plan on ruining the car super low with fuel, I plan on checking it after every pass, so I don' think it will be an issue.

 

Everyday a little bit more progress is made, got pretty much everything up front tacked up. This thing is starting to look like a race car boys!!

 

Any chance you could put the oil tank on the fire wall behind the pass side shock tower? Also move the fuel cell to the rear and put a fan on the trans cooler and put it in the rear. Oil tank to move weight to that side to compensate for the driver. Fuel cell for safety reasons in case of a front end collision. The trans cooler with no fan will not cool the trans when not in motion. Will actually heat up due to the heat from the radiator along with the fuel in the cell. Plus the motor will cool better getting everything out of the way. Just my .02.

 

Everything was placed for a reason ( may not be the best or what someone else would do). the space behind the shock towers will be for the fender exit headers. Most likely will have to move the brake master inside the car as well. I had many options on where to mount the fuel cell, I wanted it up front because of the ease to just pull the hood and fill it. This also shortened the lines, the trans cooler could have went in the back. The car being NA or nitrous, it’s not going to be sitting on the brake for more than 3-5 seconds. The car will not see any street time, just pull up to the line, and make a pass, that’s it. There’s going to be 2 10lb nitrous bottles and a 15lb fire suppression bottle were the passenger seat would go to help with weight.

 

Gotcha. Makes sense. Thought you were going to drive it around some is all.

 

it would have been laid out different if it was going to see street driving. Idk if you have looked up what c16 is lately but it’s about $25.50 a gallon, idk about you but I’m not ballin that much to drive far on that. Also I was trying to make all of the lines as short as possible, I’m ready for a $2k bill to plum this thing 😒.

 

We quit using VP for that exact reason. Too freakin expensive. We went to Dragon Racing fuel. Way cheaper and works just as good. We use their Taragon 118 fuel. $650.00 for a 55gal drum. Its non oxygenated. That's $11.81 a gallon. Less than half the price. We were using their 114 up to a 300 shot with no signs of detonation. That fuel was $550 for 55 gals. Now we are spraying a considerable amount more so we upped it to the 118. Everything looks good too. We do drive it around. Lol. A little expensive yes, but what the hell. We spend 2 dollars for a bottle of water. Or there is E85 at 90 octaine called E90 that is like $250 a barrel. That's $4.54 a Gal. We tried it and didn't like it. A lot of maintenance with a carb. Kept leaning out on us. Got tired of cleaning the clear jelly out of the bowls and blocks every other pass to keep the AFR's rock solid. Ran good but to much maintenance. Went back to gas and have never looked back. I was pretty shocked on how corrosive it was too.

Yes for sure on the lines but mainly the fittings. Definitely not cheap.

I hope you don't think I was knocking your setup at all. I just know when you start racing your going to get into situations where you will have to make multiple passes close together. When its a 100 degrees outside, **** is going to get hot. Having a fan on the trans cooler and away from the radiator will absolutely save your trans. Ours never gets above 175 on a hot day. Usually 165 normally, that's when the sending unit kicks the fan on. I have never liked a cell in the front. God forbid but, if you were to hit the wall hard, the cell will rupture and cover everything in fuel. Not to mention you want the fuel to stay as cool as possible. I like them in the back where they are protected and away from any heat. In that situation you will need the extra cooling too. That was my reasonings for saying anything. Just trying to help, not knock. Wish you nothing but the Best.

 

The small tanks up front are mainly for methanol cars. You need to move such a large volume of methanol it begins to get impractical to push it to the front of the car.

 

I’m the first to admit that I don’t know everything about drag racing…never been down the strip myself, but doesn’t Pro-Stock run a small fuel cell up front? Or is that small cell up front for something else?

 

They probably do! Pro mods as well. There's no better way to package the fuel system for the lightest weight and smallest packaging. There are strict rules about the chassis cage around the fuel cell.

Performance wise I know even with a mechanical pump and a pretty mild 900hp NA engine the engine wasn't getting consistent fueling pushing the fuel from the back of the car with methanol.

 

Yes they have the tank up front, the car is a grudge car so I'm not building it to fit any particular rules. I have 3 main lines of thinking running the small cell up front, first I wanted the car as light as possible and running the small cell and shorter lines will help with that. I know that is getting picking and its getting down to the pound but that's what you have to do, the car was at 2210 with what I have in it now so its pretty light. Second this car is going to be a wheelie machine to a little weight in front of the front axle with help with that. Last with the wing I really don't want to have to constantly be opening the rear hatch. This build is just my line of thinking, not saying its the best its just what I want from the car.

 

Nah I think you're doing the right thing with the fuel cell. It has an impact bladder inside too I'm sure.

That's light for a full body door car!

 

Small update, got a stock pedal assembly and installed it, I was going to try it out instead of jumping right into a full custom set up. It looks like it’s gonna work, also got a total cable installed and cut.





I also caved and ordered up the Nitrous Outlet Hornet 3 plate kit 🤦🏼‍♂️, I really just want to have everything wired ones and not have to go back in. After looking at the dash I decided that it was too far cut up and I got on glassteks website and ordered another one. While I was on there the rear hatch got my attention, the VFN one just looks funny with the way the optic armor sits on it and the lack of a border at the top. The glasstek one fixed that so I bit the bullet and ordered it.

 

we got a couple more things knocked out on the car last night, pulled another 25lbs out of it. There is still all the little brackets in the trunk area and more to cut off the roof but that’s going to be about it.

 

What battery will you be running? You can save a good bit of weight there…

 

I'm still undecide on that, we ran a lithium battery in one of our BMWs and it was always an issue.

 

My cousin had a lithium in his LS2 swapped RX7 and it was NOTHING but issues.