Redcatfish

Hey guys,

I'm hoping someone can shed some light here.
I have a buddy who let me borrow his ls7 lifters(converted to solid lifters) to measure 0 lash.
I'm currently using the pushrod checker tool and the EO/IC method.

My question is this,
is it acceptable to use these lifters for 0 lash with the comp cam pushrod tool, and then adding the
johnson recommended lifter preload to the lash measurement to get accurate push rod length.

Or is the cup height different, making my measurement and 0 lash completely incorrect.


Thanks in advance.

Jimbo1367

I think you should use the same brand and model of converted lifter as what u will run. Again, I think

check with one brand lifter the running another isn’t a good idea in my book. But that’s just my worthless opinion

jasons69chevelle

I Agree you’re asking for trouble.

Redcatfish

thank you,
I'll just buy some checker springs and measure that way. I don't really want to mess with the johnson lifters and lose a piece.

Che70velle

iTrader: (6)

Cup heights will differ and your measurements will be useless. Use the johnsons to measure length. Buy a MS Racing Components EZ checker. You’ll throw the Comp setup rods in the trash. Costs about $200 but it’s ****. Your welcome.

1FastBrick

iTrader: (16)

It really is a nice piece!!!

I would like to mention that it also speeds up the process of measuring and takes some of the error out.

Redcatfish

thank you!

grinder11

iTrader: (1)

I wouldn't do this, as others have said. The only way I would do it is if you have a toolmaker/machinist buddy who has access to a surface plate/V-block/dial indicator, and a couple of 5/16" diameter *****. You could put the 5/16 ball in the lifter cups, snug the lifter into the V-block, and measure the height. Then check against the other, different brand lifter. But it's much easier to just measure zero lash on the lifters you're going to be running......

SAPPER

iTrader: (10)

Just make it simple. Set to zero lash, tighten to check lash. Based on the lifter, some require .045-.080 preload and some .080-.110. The first will be about just under 3/4 turn to one full turn. the 2nd will be 1 full turn to 1-1/2. If more or less than specified, then you'll need to get a simple PR length check rod and measure for proper PR length
FYI, a stock GM lifter uses @ .050 preload.
A LS7 "STYLE" may require same or more. This is why some aftermarket lifters chatter. They will need more preload. About 1-1/4 turn.
There's a lot of opinions out there but I broke with this down to a science with all these lifters out there. Especially after a certain supplier ordered 850+ lifters and says they chatter. The lifter manufacturer specified .080-,110 preload. But supplier was advertising .050 with their lifters and were getting complaints from customers.

Also, with these hydraulic lifters, if you want to make a solid style lifter to check with, here's what you do.
Take apart a few lifters. Take washers from one and add them to lifter to be used. You will most likely need 2 washers added to the one being used. This will net about.002" of compression under a full spring load which has no affect in a measurement. This will make and almost 100% solid lifter to check with. Just make absolutely sure you mark that lifter a check lifter. Don't get it mixed up with a set.
You will need a vise or something to compress cup to get snapring back in