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I found a local LSX 6.2 Block with a 4.125 bore. It needs a new Sleeve as the current one is cracked( Pic below )
is this worth saving ? Apparently it was $3500 new. They are asking 1200 on this block.
my second question is,would this block combined with a 4 inch stroke and a 3200 stall be daily drivable? I have no idea on what cam I would run but the top end would most likely be an LS3. It would be going into my 06 GTO . Would cooling be an issue ??
Last edited by 447C5; 08-09-2023 at 06:53 AM.
Reason: Wrong title
Why wouldn't you just keep your aluminum Ls2 block that is already in the GTO?
Any block with a 4" stroke and 3200 stall is daily drivable.
unfortunately,I just tore down my LS2 only to find it met it’s demise. Scoring on the cam bearings that catch the nail and a few of the Rod bearings have light scoring on it . There are also sizeable shimmers of metal in the pan…I spun a rod 10 years ago and they ground the crank 20 over . Car sat for 10 years( was in a wreck ) with only being started maybe 3 or 4 times and doing my due diligence to get the car back on the road,i tore it down to replace all gaskets and seals and also to peep inside and make sure everything is Good to go.
it is not.
I would just put that 1200 towards rebuilding the ls2.
the cam bearings are never smooth, especially on the top sides..
Just my opinion but if your concerns are daily driving then a stock rebuild with small cam would probably be more than enough. Or of you just wanna take it a step further do the stroker and the ls3 topend, with a cam in the mid 220s Intake duration.
Also there selling the BARE block because it wasn't worth fixing to them.
I would just put that 1200 towards rebuilding the ls2.
the cam bearings are never smooth, especially on the top sides..
Just my opinion but if your concerns are daily driving then a stock rebuild with small cam would probably be more than enough. Or of you just wanna take it a step further do the stroker and the ls3 topend, with a cam in the mid 220s Intake duration.
Also there selling the BARE block because it wasn't worth fixing to them.
why aren’t they smooth ??? But okay , I appreciate the advice
why aren’t they smooth ??? But okay , I appreciate the advice
No sure, but everyone I have ever taken apart, even in excellent running condition had very rough and crappy looking cam bearings.... Hence the saying in the Ls world "dont look at the cam bearings".... lol
No sure, but everyone I have ever taken apart, even in excellent running condition had very rough and crappy looking cam bearings.... Hence the saying in the Ls world "dont look at the cam bearings".... lol
okay but when is bad,bad ? I spun a rod 10 years ago, had it ground and all new bearings throughout. Started it 3-4 times during the last decade and the bearings look rough as hell lol
They look rough after cranking the engine 4 times? That would seem a little pre mature to me.
maybe it’s just in my head because I was always taught scoring of any kind on polished bearings is bad,but the cam itself looks A1. No marks of any sort. Not sure if that dictates anything
They look rough after cranking the engine 4 times? That would seem a little pre mature to me.
this first bearing ( very first one at the front ) is really my concern . There is a slight nail grab . 1 local shop quoted me 1500’ish for Honing,Disassembling,cleaning, new mains new rods,new cam bearings,and reassembly . I’m pretty mechanically inclined so I’m sure I could reassemble it with the proper tools required .
this first bearing ( very first one at the front ) is really my concern . There is a slight nail grab . 1 local shop quoted me 1500’ish for Honing,Disassembling,cleaning, new mains new rods,new cam bearings,and reassembly . I’m pretty mechanically inclined so I’m sure I could reassemble it with the proper tools required .
$1500 is too cheap for all that work. That's some basic rebuilder ****, not a performance build. You are way better off doing it yourself or having a race shop build the short block.
Also, I quit trying to have cranks reground. I could count howany shops can regrind a crank and have it come out round. Buy a new crank or just get a stroker kit. The L8T stroker kits from Mast are the best bang for the buck.
$1500 is too cheap for all that work. That's some basic rebuilder ****, not a performance build. You are way better off doing it yourself or having a race shop build the short block.
Also, I quit trying to have cranks reground. I could count howany shops can regrind a crank and have it come out round. Buy a new crank or just get a stroker kit. The L8T stroker kits from Mast are the best bang for the buck.
That's a sad statement, about nobody knowing how to grind a crank anymore. It kinda jives with the rest of the skilled trades going the way of dinosaur's. Today's machine builders, what few there are, think plus/minus .001" is tight. I even had a guy ask me sarcastically how close I wanted it, when he was having trouble holding even .001" on a grinder!! I told him it's not how close I want it, it IS how close it has to be to work right, be reliable, and to print!! This country is in BIG TROUBLE if we ever need manufacturing again for a big war effort.....
08-09-2023, 06:40 AM
LSX Needs a new sleeve. 
