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Looking for transmission build info

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Old Nov 15, 2009 | 02:46 PM
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Default Looking for transmission build info

We all know that our transmissions are ticking time bombs. I'm now making more tq to the wheels than my transmission is rated for at the flywheel. So this has got me thinking, my aftermarket dealer warranty will put me a new transmission in when this one goes, but that one's just going to go the way of my original. So here's the thing. Do I wait until mine kills over to have it rebuilt, or do I pull it out now while its still in good condition to have it freshened up and rebuilt with stronger components? Which way's going to be cheaper? Then I look at the GTP guys' options and there are fully built transmissions out there. Is it going to be cheaper having mine rebuilt or just buying a pre-build 4t65? What are you guy's thoughts?
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Old Nov 15, 2009 | 03:17 PM
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Here is what I had put in mine.

PATC 2800 Stall Torque Converter (stock is 2000 to 2200)- 399.00 (Ordered 2/24/2009)
ZZPerformance Input Shaft - 359.95 (Ordered 2/24/2009)
TEP Clutch Master/Volvo Rebuild Kit - 179.95 (Ordered 2/25/09)
TEP Recond. Input Clutch Piston - 19.95 (Ordered 2/25/09)
TEP Input to Sun Gear Bearing - 6.95 (Ordered 2/25/09)
TEP 4t65e Lube Dam - 3.95 (Ordered 2/25/09)
TEP OE Stator Support / Drive Sprocket Bearing - 7.95 (Ordered 2/25/09)
TEP Transgo 4t65e Shift Kit(set on medium firmness) - 59.95 (Ordered 2/25/09)
Intense 3.29 - 15/16th’s Gear Ratio Conversion Kit(stock is 2.93’s) - 450.00 (Ordered 2/24/2009)
Intense 34 tooth vss reluctor wheel (stock is 30 teeth)

Total Cost for parts without shipping is - 1,488.00


If I had to do it all over agin I would buy a torque converter from Dave at Triple Edge Performance and I would have kept the stock reluctor wheel. It is easier to tune it with the stock one. Hope this helps.

-Mike
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Old Nov 15, 2009 | 03:24 PM
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It's good to have a parts list like that. How is traction/times with the steeper gears? are the replacement parts what broke in yours or were damaged during failure? Or did you just use them to refresh a good transmission?
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Old Nov 16, 2009 | 09:34 PM
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Much better acceleration. Traction is a little worse but it's a much more fun car to drive. The clutches and 2nd gear drum was burnt in the old trans. I just replaced all of that for piece of mind.

-Mike
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Old Nov 16, 2009 | 09:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Mgpeagle
Much better acceleration. Traction is a little worse but it's a much more fun car to drive. The clutches and 2nd gear drum was burnt in the old trans. I just replaced all of that for piece of mind.

-Mike
Did you have the work done or do it yourself? I'm worried about finding a good shop to do it the right way without raping me in the cost department.
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Old Dec 4, 2009 | 06:46 PM
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Well, I finally got around to getting the performance rebuild. Dave at Triple Edge Performance is having a year end sale. I went with the following:

-4T65E High Performance street/strip rebuild with 12 clutch 3rd and upgraded input shaft $1949.94
-7/8" single chain upgrade, (2.93) ratio $274.95
-Custom built performance stall converter with billet cover (3000 rpm) $724.95
-Total cost for above rebuild and parts $2949.84
-Total cost minus 15% discount ($442.48) $2507.36
-Freight shipping 2-way $350

Total cost with discount and shipping $2857.36

Just got the transmission taken out. Two week turn around time, so I hope to have it back by Christmas.
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Old Dec 4, 2009 | 08:16 PM
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I had a guy that builds all the V-6 GTP's around here build mine. I just brought him the pulled transmission and when he was done I picked it up and had a frind of mine install it.

Tempest,

That is a GREAT deal... Dave is a stand up guy.

-Mike
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Old Dec 5, 2009 | 02:12 PM
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I skipped the 7/8ths chain because Dave said the stocker was good up until mid-12s on slicks, and the 7/8ths will stretch will over time and start slopping around. I also kept the stock converter because it is pretty loose, and as I add torque the thing will stall higher anyway. It all depends on your power goals. If you put in a big cam, you'll definitely need a higher stall. Having Dave work over your trans is a big plus, because he does more than just install the new parts. The hardened input shafts I would say are a must too.
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Old Dec 5, 2009 | 04:06 PM
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i know mgpeagle did 3.29 but did you see a big difference nmp0098?
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Old Dec 6, 2009 | 12:06 AM
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It's a big difference in pickup. It's 12.3% more torque at the wheels in every gear by the numbers, which is roughly like doing a mod that would add 30HP at the wheels on a chassis dyno. My cruising fuel economy got better below 65mph and worse above 70mph. I didn't have traction in 1st anyway, so no big deal there. 2nd gear feels great, and 3rd is no longer a dog. With just the intake and the gears I can easily accelerate up steep hills in top gear (TCC locked). I would do it again, no questions.
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Old Dec 6, 2009 | 01:21 AM
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I agree, those 3.29's definitely should have come from the factory. Now, just need to get the power to the ground.
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Old Dec 6, 2009 | 10:53 AM
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After I put in the 3.29's I used HP Tuners to modify the revs per minute and monitor some other things. The HP Tuners said I had 379 ft. lbs. of torque. All I had for mods at the time was the FWI, no resonator, colder plugs & the 3.29's. Since I last monitored torque I added a professional tune, 160 thermo, 1.85 rockers, catless downpipe, TBS, HSRK, and a few other things. It will break the tires loose really bad at 45 - 50 and I will start to pull to one side. I only plan 2 more mods for the car and then I am done modding it. I would think it would be a high 12 car when I am done. We'll see in the spring.

-Mike
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Old Dec 6, 2009 | 06:00 PM
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Hmmm. You're making me rethink my gear ratio choice. I should still have time since it won't ship out until tomorrow (Monday). I didn't plan on buying a tuner though. What tune is necessary for the LS4 to work with the 3.29 gears? I haven't done a tune before, so I'd be new at this. If I just need a one time tune, can I send my PCM in to be tuned rather than purchasing a unit?
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Old Dec 6, 2009 | 06:36 PM
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This car has a small TCM because the LS4 requires a dedicated ECM. Anybody with HP Tuners can change the tune, it will just take 2 credits. If you know someone who has HP Tuners in your area, you should be able to pay them for the credits you burn. I can send you my base calibration and the one that worked with the gear change when the time comes if you PM me. I hadn't done any other tuning at that point.
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Old Dec 6, 2009 | 07:44 PM
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No reason to rebuild while your tranny still works. Might be a tad inconvenient if it dies (and a big 'IF', mine has 80K miles and I can pretty much guarantee that mine sees more abuse than yours) unexpectedly. I recall your dyno plot and you are incorrect in your assertion that are putting more torque to the wheels than it is rated for. You are referring to a torque value that showed when your converter was flashing, actual is much less. I had a 4L60E in my LT1 Caprice (read: 330 ft-lbs) that is rated less than our transmissions and it went 235K with zero problems. The 4T65E is not a ticking time bomb, the actual rate of failure is not that high. I fully expect it to last at least as long as any other 4-speed slushbox from GM, 120K at a minimum. If you keep the car until it fails, then consider replacing it, otherwise you are wasting your money.
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Old Dec 7, 2009 | 11:27 AM
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i wish i had money to hope i blow my tranny lol
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Old Dec 8, 2009 | 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Sittingmongoose
i wish i had money to hope i blow my tranny lol
X2, I just hope I do have the money when it happens and someone has come up with a way to swap in GMs newer 6 speed trans.
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Old Dec 8, 2009 | 10:05 AM
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3.29's is a must for the car, makes a HUGE difference.

And there is no way the stock chain will do mid 12's on slicks..lol NO way
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Old Dec 8, 2009 | 05:49 PM
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Thank you for the input. I emailed Dave and asked him to go with the 3.29 gears. I would rather just pay someone to program the PCM for me. I don't know if anyone lives in the New Orleans area though. If need be, could I just ship it?

Originally Posted by GXPJAY
3.29's is a must for the car, makes a HUGE difference.

And there is no way the stock chain will do mid 12's on slicks..lol NO way
That's what I was told as well. The chain is the weak link in the transmission and should be one of the first upgrades if you go below 13's.

Last edited by Tempest790; Dec 9, 2009 at 07:25 AM.
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Old Dec 9, 2009 | 08:35 AM
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yes, and the 15/16th breaks too..lol

if anyone is going to make serious power, the GMR 1" chain is the only way to go.
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