Lowered GXP's
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TECH Apprentice
Joined: Jul 2007
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Lowered GXP's I've been doing research for months now, and am still undecided on what lowering springs I want to go with.
I am not too anxious to get the SSC 1.7 springs, because it seems like everyone experiences some type of sag in the rear.
I want to go with the Canuck 2.5/1.5 drop, but I am afraid I'll have to roll the fenders with my new wheels..
Does anyone have any experience with either set-up or can add some information?
I am not too anxious to get the SSC 1.7 springs, because it seems like everyone experiences some type of sag in the rear.
I want to go with the Canuck 2.5/1.5 drop, but I am afraid I'll have to roll the fenders with my new wheels..
Does anyone have any experience with either set-up or can add some information?
i had the ssc combo it was pretty nice but just didnt seem right with the bilstein, after converting the bilsteins to coilovers it was the best thing i couldve done for the car handling wise. for around 175 per axle you can convert your factory bilstein's to a coilover setup which ride really nice even for a DD and when youre pushing it around curves the response/feel is infinatley better
Just doing a simple writeup on converting the bilstein GXP struts to coilover.
Imo not going to go through the all the details of taking your strut apart etc..you can follow the writeup on CGP
here --->>http://www.clubgp.com/newforum/tm.as...mode=1&smode=1
So a few notes while doing the bilsteins in particular. when you take everything apart youll want to reuse parts of the factory dustboot to keep your shocks relativley clean and have a good service life.
youll want the white collar from the inside of the blue dust boot as well as the black plastic cap. all pictured here
so in order of things we start with the bare bilstein strut pictured here
we press the sleeve on, ( i happened to use a 2.048 i.d sleeve which was slightly to big so i hammered some (exhaust pipe adapter 2 1/4 ID x 2 1/8 OD available from autozone)
for the dustboot just use scissors to slice the top of the collar off to get the white piece out.
so in order of assembly youll want to do this sleeve, nut, bearings, black plastic piece, coilover spring,white piece
(optional but not neccesary)washer, two polyurethane sway bar bushings,mount with isolator and nut.
(important side note---using the poly bushings youll want to use a 1/2' drill bit!! then use a 19mm socket and hammer it on the washer like so)
Hope the visuals help. any questions or comments please ask.
Imo not going to go through the all the details of taking your strut apart etc..you can follow the writeup on CGP
here --->>http://www.clubgp.com/newforum/tm.as...mode=1&smode=1
So a few notes while doing the bilsteins in particular. when you take everything apart youll want to reuse parts of the factory dustboot to keep your shocks relativley clean and have a good service life.
youll want the white collar from the inside of the blue dust boot as well as the black plastic cap. all pictured here
so in order of things we start with the bare bilstein strut pictured here
we press the sleeve on, ( i happened to use a 2.048 i.d sleeve which was slightly to big so i hammered some (exhaust pipe adapter 2 1/4 ID x 2 1/8 OD available from autozone)
for the dustboot just use scissors to slice the top of the collar off to get the white piece out.
so in order of assembly youll want to do this sleeve, nut, bearings, black plastic piece, coilover spring,white piece
(optional but not neccesary)washer, two polyurethane sway bar bushings,mount with isolator and nut.
(important side note---using the poly bushings youll want to use a 1/2' drill bit!! then use a 19mm socket and hammer it on the washer like so)
Hope the visuals help. any questions or comments please ask.
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Launching!
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 218
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From: CANADA
I have 2.5 Front and 1.7 rear from CMS on brand new HD bilsteins... on 275 fronts.
I do not get rubbing.
I'm overall happy however to be honest I would prefer a little more drop in the front and a little less in the rear.
I do not get rubbing.
I'm overall happy however to be honest I would prefer a little more drop in the front and a little less in the rear.
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 325
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Overall I'm very happy.
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Note for alignment park car on platform and setup for alignment, then do not lift the car at all during the adjustment and use an air bag between the tire and strut (top portion) to hold the wheel assembly at spec, while you/they tighten the camber bolts then release the bag and do the other side the same way.
Product ID: MOOG-K5330-Rear/Front
Manufacturer: MOOG
MOOG camber bolt kits! You can install 1 on each strut but it is recommended to install 2 on each. Other brands are available but they are not heat treated. Simple install you can do it, then go for your alignment.
Note for alignment park car on platform and setup for alignment, then do not lift the car at all during the adjustment and use an air bag between the tire and strut (top portion) to hold the wheel assembly at spec, while you/they tighten the camber bolts then release the bag and do the other side the same way.
Product ID: MOOG-K5330-Rear/Front
Manufacturer: MOOG
Note for alignment park car on platform and setup for alignment, then do not lift the car at all during the adjustment and use an air bag between the tire and strut (top portion) to hold the wheel assembly at spec, while you/they tighten the camber bolts then release the bag and do the other side the same way.
Product ID: MOOG-K5330-Rear/Front
Manufacturer: MOOG
I also think heat treatment for this application is unnecessary; I've had my bolts in since November 2010 with no issues. My front and rear camber are to spec.
ACDelco P/N 45K18036. You will need four (one per strut) if you're lowered front and rear.
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[QUOTE=GXP25;17829205]I would have to disagree. I would suggest the ACDelco camber bolts instead since they offer +/- 1.75° of adjustment versus the +/- 1.25° of adjustment on the MOOGs.
I also think heat treatment for this application is unnecessary; I've had my bolts in since November 2010 with no issues. My front and rear camber are to spec.
ACDelco P/N 45K18036. You will need four (one per strut) if you're lowered front and rear.[/QUOTE
This is good (options) but you are not subject to the salt and corrosion as most north of you. Also the MOOG using as I specified gives over 2* adjustment and as for the heat treating it does not cost any more and the first time you hit a pothole or curb it does not change its shape, just a little more security!
I also think heat treatment for this application is unnecessary; I've had my bolts in since November 2010 with no issues. My front and rear camber are to spec.
ACDelco P/N 45K18036. You will need four (one per strut) if you're lowered front and rear.[/QUOTE
This is good (options) but you are not subject to the salt and corrosion as most north of you. Also the MOOG using as I specified gives over 2* adjustment and as for the heat treating it does not cost any more and the first time you hit a pothole or curb it does not change its shape, just a little more security!
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 325
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I would have to disagree. I would suggest the ACDelco camber bolts instead since they offer +/- 1.75° of adjustment versus the +/- 1.25° of adjustment on the MOOGs. I also think heat treatment for this application is unnecessary; I've had my bolts in since November 2010 with no issues. My front and rear camber are to spec. ACDelco P/N 45K18036. You will need four (one per strut) if you're lowered front and rear.
I would have to disagree. I would suggest the ACDelco camber bolts instead since they offer +/- 1.75° of adjustment versus the +/- 1.25° of adjustment on the MOOGs.
I also think heat treatment for this application is unnecessary; I've had my bolts in since November 2010 with no issues. My front and rear camber are to spec.
ACDelco P/N 45K18036. You will need four (one per strut) if you're lowered front and rear.
I also think heat treatment for this application is unnecessary; I've had my bolts in since November 2010 with no issues. My front and rear camber are to spec.
ACDelco P/N 45K18036. You will need four (one per strut) if you're lowered front and rear.
Also, I've hit plenty curbs and potholes and I'm still able to be put back to spec. I also took a trip to D.C. and dealt with those ridiculous roads.
And could you please provide a source to the claim that those MOOGs provide over 2° of adjustment?
MOOG's own website begs to differ and backs up my original claim: http://www.moog-suspension-parts.com...rod=MOOG-K5330
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I'm pretty sure the ACDelco part is engineered for all weather conditions in the US. They don't make certain parts for certain regions of the country. It's more likely than not that the parts are overengineered for the worst case scenario.
Also, I've hit plenty curbs and potholes and I'm still able to be put back to spec. I also took a trip to D.C. and dealt with those ridiculous roads.
And could you please provide a source to the claim that those MOOGs provide over 2° of adjustment?
"Problem Solver Magna cam / bolt kit. Allows (neg) 1-1/4 to (pos) 1-1/4 degree camber adjustment" That equals 2.5* of adjustment. Quoted from the exact web page you linked.
MOOG's own website begs to differ and backs up my original claim: http://www.moog-suspension-parts.com...rod=MOOG-K5330
Also, I've hit plenty curbs and potholes and I'm still able to be put back to spec. I also took a trip to D.C. and dealt with those ridiculous roads.
And could you please provide a source to the claim that those MOOGs provide over 2° of adjustment?
"Problem Solver Magna cam / bolt kit. Allows (neg) 1-1/4 to (pos) 1-1/4 degree camber adjustment" That equals 2.5* of adjustment. Quoted from the exact web page you linked.
MOOG's own website begs to differ and backs up my original claim: http://www.moog-suspension-parts.com...rod=MOOG-K5330
Your 2° of adjustment statement earlier came across as if they were superior to the ACDelcos that I brought up. As if to state it was a +/-2° adjustments. If that's the case, and you're adding both ranges totaling 2.5° of total adjustment, then I can also play with numbers.
The ACDelcos provide 3.5° of adjustment. And that's not my opinion.
Don't get me wrong, I've used plenty of MOOG parts which tend to be overengineered to fix OEM parts. But it just so happens that in this case, ACDelco prevails.
The ACDelcos provide 3.5° of adjustment. And that's not my opinion.
Don't get me wrong, I've used plenty of MOOG parts which tend to be overengineered to fix OEM parts. But it just so happens that in this case, ACDelco prevails.
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Sorry for the bump on this, but I am about ready to order but have a couple questions. (I don't drive it during the winter so I am ready to dig her out and get this going)
1) Do I still need these bolts on the front? The camber in the front is fine, its the rears that are bad
2) ACDelco P/N 45K18036 Would I need qty 4 of these?
3) Which bolt does the camber caster bolt replace in the picture below. Top or Bottom?
4) Do I just throw this camber bolt in, and will the alignment shop be able to do their magic, or does the washer need to be in a certain orientation. OR should I just give the shop the 4 bolts and have them install them?
Thanks guys!!
1) Do I still need these bolts on the front? The camber in the front is fine, its the rears that are bad
2) ACDelco P/N 45K18036 Would I need qty 4 of these?
3) Which bolt does the camber caster bolt replace in the picture below. Top or Bottom?
4) Do I just throw this camber bolt in, and will the alignment shop be able to do their magic, or does the washer need to be in a certain orientation. OR should I just give the shop the 4 bolts and have them install them?
Thanks guys!!