booya, 27.4 ohms on every wire lol talk about precise building

 

My to do list keeps getting longer...and more expen$ive !

 

Damn, that's low. Those are great. Hope it didn't change the idle any , Such a big difference, did it effect any tuning?

 

havent changed them yet, still waiting on the ebay sleeves to get here, dont want to risk them burning up on a header primary like the stock ones. lol Another note, trans cooler definitely has to go in, hitting 220's for trans fluid temp tonight AT NIGHT while driving. So ill be working on that in the coming weeks.

 

Get that cooler in soon. Showed my father in law the videos of your car, he is a gearhead from way back. He was loving the cam.

 

lol glad he likes it, certainly gets attention from the guys who know what that sound is, honda guys just think its a v6 grand prix with a misfire. lol

 

My car hasn't been any hotter than 186 since I installed mine. Any adjustments you can make to the trans for lock up speed? I have read quite a few posts and most say they stall between 2500 and 3000. That seems really high for these cars . Seems like they would launch better much lower.

 

I can adjust the TCC lockup speed yeh but I dont want it locking up any lower then it already does, it drops the RPM's to about 1200 in 3rd at the lowest speed it can lock which is fine. And your right, it is a very very high stall for these car's, the issue is, its not a V8 converter, its a GTP converter that they just carried over to the V8's. It stalls between 2800-3000 and the flash is about 3500. Depending on the cam (which really dictates where you want your stall to be) i could stand to be about 2000-2200 stall. Instead i have to rev to over 2000 just to get the car to start rolling and 2500+ to accelerate with any sort of speed. Here's what dave told me, as ive been having a conversation with him about it...

"Hi Robert,

The JTFM will stall to 2800-3000 rpm in all supercharged and LS4 equipped vehicles so you are right in the ballpark. The book ratings are way off and there is much more involved in how it actually stalls up. The converter should definitely be locking up and pull the rpms down in 4th gear so watch scan data and verify it is locking up and you should see TCC slippage rpm constantly float around 0-50 rpm with brief fluctuations about that and TCC apply/duty % around 48-58% at a steady cruise.

Fuel economy can be effected by several things so I would make sure you don't have vacuum leaks or the 02 sensor isn't performing well. If the ECM is adding a lot of fuel via fuel trims then there is a reason for it and will make mpg drop."

"Converter wise due to the size of the converter and weight of the vehicle you aren't going to get much of a lower honest stall speed. There is one step down converter that will stall in the 2600-2700 range but normally something I only suggest for stock applications. The rpms you mentioned all sound about normal to me but is hard without driving in person to say for sure. These cars normally won't move until the rpms are over 2000, though the stock 2.93 ratio effects this as well. There can be a small amount of variation in stall speed but I have not installed one of these yet to see a drastic change. The more power the engine makes will also give a looser converter feel also as the stall speed is a direct relation to torque input.

Converter wise- The ZZP converter is not going to help what you are going after. Their 2500 converter is close to a JTFM, but the smaller size and what is based off of may even be a bit looser feeling as going down in converter size is going to effect this plus you get a smaller and weaker lockup clutch which is not something you need in a vehicle that likes to eat torque converters. If you want a better torque converter that would be custom built to suite your needs I would suggest one of our performance converters from Precision Industries. They are not a one-fits-all torque converter. These are based off of a 245mm converter but are all custom built per application, have a higher torque multiplication, and a custom billet oversized lockup clutch piston. A big plus is they come with a 5 year warranty and one free stall speed change if you need."

Frankly I just dont have it in the budget right now to change the converter out with a 850 dollar performance replacement. I could look into circle d and FTI already told me they would custom make a converter for me for about 350-400. Could also give precision of new hampton a call as well who actually made this converter, see if they could do something custom again like they did for my integra. They did a 3000 stall for my integra and it was spot on.

 

Damn, that sucks. Does any other manufacturer make a HD stock stall converter(billet)? Seems like these are all set up for 369 geared track cars running sticky tires. Or is the cam causing this higher stall?

 

I doubt the cam is causing the higher stall, seems to be exactly what he expected it to be, I just made the mistake of basing all of my calculations off of the book value for what it should stall at, which was supposed to be 1900-2100.

 

Well I guess not much can be done without changing converters .Grab some sticky tires and launch that bitch at 3 grand

 

i had PATC do my converter however its not a billet front cover which id like but we will see. its a 3k unit that cost me 399

 

Did you install your cam yet? Is that converter stalling at 3k?

 

How's it drive, whats it brake stall to before it starts pushing the car, and hows drivability around town?

 

Soon it's in the garage lol, I'm training across the could try right now till october so I won't getting to it till then

 

ah damn lol well i got a while before i muster up the will power to swap converters on this thing anyway lol

 

Do you think when you do the intake and tb swap that could help some or be worse? I would think that could move around the power band a great deal. Seems like these converters are not street friendly for a driver car.

 

I think its gonna bring the power up across the entire powerband, but will be much more significant in the top end. You can see it in the datalog's where the LS4 intake fails. Somewhere between 5000-5500 my cylinder airmass drops off significantly all the way up to 6200 as MAP vacuum continues to rise again. That's the engine overcoming the intake manifold and beginning to pull vacuum. Where as in a more efficient setup it would stay at 0 in-hg and cylinder airmass would rise all the way to peak power.

 

So a converter change seems like an absolute necessity then. I don't have a lot of experience with converters, only had 2 cars with them . I used a B+M holeshot in one car and a Fairbanks or TCI in another, both cars were about the same weight as theses cars also. Both were spot on for stall speeds, and worked very well on the street with around 342 gearing. I'm not a track guy, been there plenty of times but my cars were always set up for street use only. Sounds like your converter is hard to drive with, and just pissing thru gas to use. This is a big disappointment for what it seems your intended purposes are.

 

Yeh it blows, wasnt expecting this at all honestly. Who would have thought the catalog numbers be that far off.