Anyone's transmission feel like it is slipping from a complete stop and then at cruising speeds? My 06 Impy SS started last week in cold weather with only 23k mikes. Did not do it when weather warmed as much. Took is the GM and they found no codes on the trans but found an update they called a driveability software update that was to cure the problem. One day after getting the car back, problem is back and worse. Still more of an issue in cold weather and when first started. Anyone experience this that has advice for me and my GM dealer?

 

Slips cold is usually a hard seal issue.Internal issue,But I would see if I could locate all of the TSB's related to this issue first,Sometimes the dealer seems to have a hard time finding them,HAHA!If you present the TSB to them they realize that you are serious and may be a little more on the ball.

 

Update: Did a lot of searching and have seen many posts about trans failure in these cars at low miles. Brought my car back to the dealer. They followed directions in a new bulletin and dropped the trans pan. The bulletin said if you find debree when you drop the pan, replace the entire transmission and torque converter. New trans and converter will be in on Monday. Sounds like there is a known problem with these transmissions.

 

Can you get us the number for this bulletin?

 

x2 i could use that bulletin. My car goes in on monday for tranny problems anything i have to fight with would be better so they dont try to dick me around.

 

I can guarantee you that any extended periods of "Agressive driving"Will make short work of the 4T65E,The size of the frictions in these things would scare most people.It sucks you guys are having problems so early on.Dealer is probably going to install a SERTA unit and let her rip,Most dealers don't have the ability to fix a design flaw,This unit was never intended for over 300 ft lbs of torque in a heavy car with wide tires,Traction issues aside.Mine has had a slight 1-2 shift chatter since it was new,Now at 19k miles it seems to shift a little firm.But no death yet,So I'm going to let it ride as I really don't want the oil change guy swapping the transmission out!

 

I'll see what I can get out of the dealer for codes etc. I don't drive aggressive with this car. No racing either. That's what my GN is for. I do drive 95 miles a day to/from work though. I bought the car with 5k on it though, so who knows what the previous owner did to it. I'm just glad it only took to trips to the dealer for them to figure out the whole trans is bad. Not happy about having to open the engine this early in the car's life...

Pardon my ignorance but what is a Serta unit?

 

Here it is. I could only get a screenshot from work, the computer wouldn't let me cut and paste the text to e-mail to myself.

 

What needs to be done to our transmissions to make them bulletproof? What have the guys been doin in the grand prix world to prep their cars for high performance use? 1 inch drive chain? Rabestos third gear clutch pack? Heavy duty input shaft?

 

Basically (when I looked into....from a reputable tranny shop, not a sponsor here).....

* All new High performance Bearings and sleeves (all are replaced with new regardless of condition so all new parts seat together properly).

* All new rings and seals (again, all are replaced with new regardless of condition so all new parts seat together properly and proper tolerances are kept)

* Factory dual-chain set is replaced with heavy duty 15/16”single chain for increased reliability. This roller chain has been used in vehicles with upwards of 450whp, and upon teardown shows no measurable stretch after more than 10,000 miles (including more than 10 track passes).

* Input and 3rd element sprags are replaced with 2003+ upgrade to mechanical-diode style sprags for increased durability

* Hardened 4340 improved design input shaft installed. Though not completely needed for most applications due to the heavy duty chain and other improvements, the factory units are indeed a weak point in the transmission. No guessing whether ours will hold up.

* Hardened and improved fourth clutch hub is installed. The fourth clutch hub splines are notorious for stripping in even street driven, non modified cars. This fourth clutch hub will hold up to even the most demanding usage.

* Input/3rd Clutches are replaced with Raybestos Z-Pak clutches. These are a single sided clutch, which has been rated up to 800 hp. Actually lowering operating temperatures (from our own findings, and backed by Raybestos’ research), and giving rock solid performance under even the most demanding conditions.

* 2nd gear clutches are replaced with Blue-plate street/strip duty clutches (These are BAR-NONE the best clutches money can buy. Many performance shops have even eliminated one clutch pack and exceeded factory torque holding specs using Blue-plate clutches. This transmission uses Blue-plates in (ALL 6) 2nd gear plates resulting in UNMATCHED torque holding and repeatable holding force through repeated cycles) Rumors and truths have floated around regarding the Blue-plate clutches regarding overheating. This was true of the first generation strip clutches.

* 4th gear clutches are replaced with high energy Raybestos units. Though stock 4th gear clutches would be sufficient under all but the most insane applications due to valve body improvements, and other shift improvements throughout the transmission.

* Input steels are replaced with proper thickness Kolene steels. These steels are the Cadillac of clutch steels. They dissipate heat properly, are the correct thickness, and DO NOT warp like the factory steels they replace. This results in longer clutch life, and quicker engagement times due to no steel warping.

* TCC apply valve is replaced with improved unit increasing response time and lockup holding force. All this is achieved while increasing valve lubricity and increasing life of the valve and bore. (This unit addresses an inherent problem with the 4T65E transmission. Often, the original design wears at the valve body in as little as 20,000 miles. This causes fluid leakage around the TCC and can cause P1870 and other TCC related codes. Moreover; this can cause pre-mature Torque converter clutch burn-up and failure due to TCC apply pressure being bled off under load at freeway speeds. This replacement valve addresses a flay inherent to the valve body design, and eliminates these issues)

* 1-2 Shift valve is replaced with an improved design. Larger bore contact area increases valve-life and increased lubricity and oil passages allow for long life and faster response time for this critical component. (This valve is constantly in motion in your transmission. Every shift this valve changes position, including 3-4 and 4-3. This valve is usually the root cause of soft 1-2 shifts, slow 1-2 shifts, delayed engagement, and other shift-flares. This replacement addresses a flaw inherent to the valve body design and eliminates these issues)

* Reverse actuator valve is replaced with improved design. Many 4T65E transmissions are plagued with slow reverse engagement or Harsh engagement of reverse drum components. This valve is often the cause of fluid related reverse issues. (The replacement of this valve also eliminates the possibility of experiencing this issue due to valve body wear and design.)

* Boost Valve is replaced with improved design. 4T65E transmissions are notorious for low or slow line rise, and fluctuating base line pressures. This can be traced back to the boost valve wearing away at the bore, causing fluid leakage around the valve. (This valve not only increases surface contact area, and lubricity for less wear per stroke, the passages are re-designed for more stable operation and improved line rise and reaction time. A must in any performance build)

* Key points in the valve body and channel plate are sleeved with Vitreon sleeves. (These areas of the fluid path often wear away causing fluid flow concerns and erratic operation under differing pressures and loads. These areas are prepared with specialty tools, and a application-specific sleeve is installed. The Vitreon sleeve reduces fluid drag, and eliminates yet another weak point in the operation of the valve body and channel plate)

* Other key drive components are replaced with re-designed pieces to enhance durability. While we can’t give away all our recipes, the final drive sun gear and various reaction shells are among the mix.

* ALL NEW OEM solenoids are installed. No holds barred, the Delco solenoids are the most reliable available. Many others claim to have improved designs, but their failure rates are exponentially higher then the Delco units. This is just one area of the transmission that should NEVER be skimped on, even in a standard build).

* Electronic Gear selection switch is replaced with new. This unit can be problematic. Causing the PCM to be un-aware of the gear the driver has manually selected. Not a place to save money on a Transmission that MUST perform.

100% custom 245mm torque convertor. Customer specified stall speeds (2200-3000 RPM stall speeds available at no extra charge, others available for additional costing-ask us and we’ll build it). This converter is rated up to 600 WHP, and comes pre-balanced. ALL FINS are furnace brazed, Extreme duty bearings are used, Case is finned and hardened and has anti-ballooning plates. High energy lockup clutch material is used on a carbon fiber backing plate.

* Torque converter comes pre-indexed onto the transmission. Improper converter indexing is a common cause of pre-mature converter failure.

* Torque converter is partially filled with the proper transmission fluid, and lube guard additive for initial startup. A common cause of premature bearing failure in new transmissions and converters is the fact that upon initial start-up, the converter is BONE DRY.


* We send you the correct transmission cooler to use with your performance transmission! That’s right. You get a FULL SIZED cooler for your transmission with the unit. Moreover, this unit is designed to REPLACE your existing unit in the radiator.

* Shift correction package is pre-installed in this unit. (4th shift correction also installed, decreasing 4th clutch wear, slow 4th engagement, and no lock-up) Shift times are decreased dramatically, and firmness is improved greatly. Addressing the original transmission’s tendency to “mush” from one gear to the next, this kit yields crisp shifts at light throttle, and crisp & firm shifts at WOT. All but the most aggressive tires will “chirp” into second gear at WOT. (With the vast complexities of PCM tuning and HP levels, we have found the balance of street/strip shift performance. Shifts are progressive and linear. (softer throttle input equates to softer shift, the more you give it-the firmer it shifts) We do not recommend setting the shift firmness any higher than the setting your transmission ships with. Any further shift corrections should be done at the PCM level with shift time and line pressure corrections.

* The pump. The heart of your transmission. Without it, there would be no fluid flow. Without that, nothing works. We use improved components within the factory space to provide an improved final unit. Yielding more stable fluid pressures above 5500 RPM. (The factory pump can not keep up with volumetric demand adequately above 5500-5800RPM, this can lead to missed 2-3 shifts due to fluid paths in the valve body. Missed 2-3 shifts can cause massive clutch burning, glazing, and even more catastrophic failures).

* The bolts? It is common in 4T60 and 4T65 transmissions for the valve body and channel plate retaining bolts to loosen over time due to the vibrations within the motor and transmission. Loosened valve body bolts or channel plate bolts lead to fluid leakage around the intended working path. Many perfectly healthy transmissions have failed due to these bolts loosening.

 

And the price of all that fun is. . ..

 

Caddy used to run thier old V8 up to the older 4T60(440-T4) making close to 300 ft- lbs of torque and they held up just fine. Even the Fiero Group dosen't have too many issues with them and they have been running anything you can think of against it. Other than the occasional bad parts, the only thing that kills these units is blatant abuse. Peg legging and neutral drops and shear overheat. The Clutches rarely burn out. For bad parts It's either ussally a bad seal, or a pitted oil pump shaft that kills the support bearing, or back in the day it was broken acuumulator springs and a soft reverse reaction drum, or a bad electrical part. The gears, carriers, clutches and bands stay true. A strong 4T60 series trans can but built with using updated replacement parts. Sonnax is company to look into. Honestly I think we have the best version of the 4T65-E ever made.

 

depends on what you want....$2,000 all the way to $10,000!

 

I agree with you that we have the best FACTORY version of the 4T series trans.But as far as stock units go,They will not take a bunch of aggresive driving without failure.4T65E is an adaptive learn transmission,Meaning that an 1811 code will send you to the transmission shop even though the unit may actually survive a bunch more miles.1811 is max adapt and long shift,When the unit and PCM decide that it can no longer make the shifts in the allotted time frame,1811 is what you get.4TH clutch hub splines and clutch count would make you wonder how it ever lasts!One of the biggest killers of the 4T60E is lack of vacuum to the modulator,Which jacks the pressure and blows the channel plate gaskets.Being as it is not adaptive learn it will keepon trucking until the PCM sees a slip when the converter is applied ETC.Anything can be made to take some abuse,BUT,In stock form it is obvious that they are not as strong as you might think.My original post was made only for info and to try and keep you guys out of the dealership/Trans shop before your time.These are not like a good old turbo 350,Which I have built with a shift kit and performance converter only,Put behind a 450+FT LBS of torque 383 with slicks and had NO problems out of it.Just saying don't get to crazy without internal mods as they will not last!

 

Latest Update: The car was in the shop for a week. I just got her back. The work slip shows the trans was replaced with a SERTA. It looks like it may be a remanufactored trans. Does anyone know how the warrenty works. Are they premitted to use reman parts? I was under the impression that I was getting a new trans. The car is running great now. Never shifted this good from day one.

I am noticing that the actual shifter is soft when I move through the gears. There is no resistence in the actual shifter like there use to be. Is that normal or should I bring it back?

I'm not familiar with all these issues, I greatly appreciate the boards help thus far.

PS: What does SERTA stand for?

 

I'm not sure what SERTA actually stands for, but it's GM's way of saying you got a remanufactured transmission. I wouldn't sweat it, it's warrantied, so if you do encounter any other problems you can always bring it back. As far as the shifter, that doesn't sound normal. Can you feel it click through the gates at all?

 

FWIW, i was getting a rubbing of the plastc trim connected to the shifter on the plastic bezel surrounding it. They took it apart and lubed it and now it's pretty smooth. It surprised the hell out of me. I thought was disconnected.

I think that's normal.

 

Well about the gaskets blowing out.. thats extraordinary... Yeah the modulators go bad and the pump maxes out... but about the 4th clutch...I think what they have is fine if maybe they would be as so kind as to fortify it.. not for nothing anything on the input side of the doesnt need to be overly huge as its only working with the engine output and not exactly driving the car.... the whole drive chain idea makes complete sense to me..

 

oh boy.... and i got a long trip planned out for me... if the tranny messes up down thier... bye bye monte

 

It will be fine