Finally got on a dyno... Wanted to throw up afterwards
#1
Finally got on a dyno... Wanted to throw up afterwards
I finally threw my car on the dyno today... I had been looking forward to it all week. Well, after much waiting my dynoday finally came. Unfortunately I was very disappointed with the results. Car is a 94 Camaro M6 with LS1 Airlid, 160 stat, Pacesetter LT's, X-pipe dumped, Worked heads w/ manley hi-flo valves, cc503, 1.6 RR's.
Here's what I ended up with: went from 3000rpm to 5600rpm(normally would spin to around 6300 but they didn't ask)
...............Min:......Max:......Avg:
Total HP....170.......295.......253
AFR..........11.9......13.1......12.4
Torque......275.......314.......302
Here's what I ended up with: went from 3000rpm to 5600rpm(normally would spin to around 6300 but they didn't ask)
...............Min:......Max:......Avg:
Total HP....170.......295.......253
AFR..........11.9......13.1......12.4
Torque......275.......314.......302
Last edited by ryle; 11-17-2008 at 07:56 PM.
#5
I think the problem is partially the heads, cause I know that they were never port matched, just bowl ported. that's one thing that I plan on doing this winter, but do you think that could count for so much?? The guy at the shop told me that stock lt1 cars usually dyno around 245 on that dyno. I find it hard to believe that I should only pick up 50hp over stock with my mods. The car has never had an actual dynotune, but rather a tune that I picked up from someone else who had the same mods as I did.
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#9
I would imagine you to be in the 350rwhp range on a dynojet so less than that on the mustang...Then again those numbers were at 5600 correct? You should be making peak power at around 6000ish. I think I made peak with your cam at 5900 so add the heads to that and probaly 6000-6100 or so is your peak. If you figure in the added power you would have shown on the dyno if they revved the car out correctly plus the fact that its a mustang dyno and not a dyno jet your numbers may be correct or not too far off IMO.
#10
Well, Maybe correct, but damn... I was expecting more. But even If they revved it out, you can see by the graph that the torque was falling quickly, Usually the torque is higer, so I don't think the HP would have gotten much higher had they revved it out.
#11
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I was also thinking 350s. I also think something isnt right, even beyond the fact it's a mustang dyno. Why do they even use those damn dynos? To make the mustang owners feel better when their highly modded cars are smoked by us GM owners? lol
EDIT: miss-adjusted valves by change?
EDIT: miss-adjusted valves by change?
#12
I think the problem is partially the heads, cause I know that they were never port matched, just bowl ported. that's one thing that I plan on doing this winter, but do you think that could count for so much?? The guy at the shop told me that stock lt1 cars usually dyno around 245 on that dyno. I find it hard to believe that I should only pick up 50hp over stock with my mods. The car has never had an actual dynotune, but rather a tune that I picked up from someone else who had the same mods as I did.
Also the CC503 makes power at higher RPMs, maybe you should have let it rev a little higher.
Are you still on stock injectors?
Last edited by Counted Out; 11-17-2008 at 08:25 PM.
#13
I just put on the rr's, and most people say that when they do them it sounds like a sewing machine. I only had one or two sound like a sewing machine, but I tightened them just enough to make it stop.
#14
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From: Decatur, TN (N-W of Athens)
So I think we've got our problems. Valves and tune. At least that's where my money is at. Can't exactly go by ear with RRs, at least from my understanding. Aside from maybe a super pro, but I bet even they wouldn't do it by ear.
#15
well, I only adjusted 4 of the rr's once I started the engine. all the others were set to zero lash. i wonder if my valvetrain geometry is right, My heads were milled slightly and the builder told me to use the stock length rods.
#16
Your numbers sound about right for a Mustang Dyno. I don't see a problem considering they revved it low and as mentioned it was a MD. Here is my thread from a Mustang Dyno that I got on. https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...-got-dyno.html
#18
It puts a load on the car, so its more like driving on the street. A dynojet doesnt, so its kinda like driving your car in the air. A mustang dyno is used more for tuning, and is better for tuning than a dynojet since it simulates driving on the street.
#19
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From: Decatur, TN (N-W of Athens)
I was under the impression that in order to measure the amount of power being put out, that an amount of resistance (load) must be applied. If a Dynojet put no load, then you'd make well more than the 275FWHP we're rated at from the rear wheels heh And to be honest, air has quite a bit of resistance From what I've noticed, a MD isn't more accurate if you factor in the amount of power it takes to put a car down the track in X amount of time. From what it seems, more people who have dynoed and gone to the track, have their results come pretty close to what they should've ran in theory. Factor in what a MD would give you for results, and you then should be going slower down the track. I can't name any instances where someone's dynoed on a MD, but from what I've been reading most dynos are Dynojets, and that's what I'm basing what I've said off of. This is just what I've observed mind you.
#20
1. Mustang Dyno
2. It was only spun to 5600
3. Not your own tune
4. Most importantly, real world numbers tend to be lower then "internet" numbers.
Take her to the track and see what it traps to really see if your combo is working how it should! Personally considering the details it sounds about right to me.
2. It was only spun to 5600
3. Not your own tune
4. Most importantly, real world numbers tend to be lower then "internet" numbers.
Take her to the track and see what it traps to really see if your combo is working how it should! Personally considering the details it sounds about right to me.