Project gutted Formula
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 889
Likes: 0
From: Oviedo,Fl/Fairbanks,AK
Hey do you have pics of how you cut all the fiberglass out of the door. Also i was thinking of cutting all the extra fiberglass out of the hatch on the inside. Do you think that will mess up the integrity of hatch?
Yes, I do have pictures of the doors. I did a really good write up on all of the work I did on my doors on my site, but with the issues it is having I can't get to anything. Here's the link to the pics in my thread:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/9213734-post134.html
I am planning on cutting some of the fiberglass out of the hatch, but I am waiting until I put in one of the speedglass drop in rear windows at the same time. If you take the cover off of the hatch you will notice certain areas are basically boxed. There's the outside, inside, and vertical supports between the two. on the inside ther is a decent amount to cut, but I don't think it'll weigh that much. I still plan on cutting it out as it is free weight reduction and the possible loss of integrity will be negligable.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/9213734-post134.html
I am planning on cutting some of the fiberglass out of the hatch, but I am waiting until I put in one of the speedglass drop in rear windows at the same time. If you take the cover off of the hatch you will notice certain areas are basically boxed. There's the outside, inside, and vertical supports between the two. on the inside ther is a decent amount to cut, but I don't think it'll weigh that much. I still plan on cutting it out as it is free weight reduction and the possible loss of integrity will be negligable.
Last edited by Beaflag VonRathburg; May 28, 2009 at 02:26 AM.
11 Second Club
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,089
Likes: 3
From: West Linn, Oregon
Wow, I just saw this thread, nice work, it looks like a red 6spd version of my car, hell you stripped out more metal than I have yet and I got my RW down to just under 2850# before I started adding weight back in because it was too fast (I race index style classes and needed to slow the car back down)...
BTW, I have my stock hood converted to a lift-off hood, it works well, but you have to realy think about where and how you will use the pins, I had 4 at first, but a few times down the track at over 115 and the front of the hood started lifting up. here are some pics and a vid or 2 where you see them lifting up, the pics show that I added 2 more pins at the very front.
With just 4 pins on the return road after a run, see the hood sticking up
http://trsphoto.exposuremanager.com/...ami/dsc_480231
It also looks like the hood shifted a lot with just the 4 pins, it was sitting flush when I was in the staging lanes but when I launched it popped up
http://trsphoto.exposuremanager.com/...ami/dsr_754050
http://trsphoto.exposuremanager.com/...ami/dsr_793531
vid of the hood starting to lift
and notice it lifting more each run, it actually started folding up
here are some pics of the hood after attaching the extra pins
http://trsphoto.exposuremanager.com/...ami/dsc_668444
http://trsphoto.exposuremanager.com/...ami/dsr_939122
http://trsphoto.exposuremanager.com/...ami/dsr_939224
http://trsphoto.exposuremanager.com/..._ami/dsr_94957
http://trsphoto.exposuremanager.com/...sses/dsc_86269
http://trsphoto.exposuremanager.com/...ami_/dsc_60331
http://trsphoto.exposuremanager.com/...ami_/dsc_60343
http://trsphoto.exposuremanager.com/...mi_/dsr_907829
http://trsphoto.exposuremanager.com/...isc/dsr_892139
http://trsphoto.exposuremanager.com/..._08/dsc_561133
this one you can see the undersid of the hood a little as it sits off next to the trailer for cooling between rounds
http://trsphoto.exposuremanager.com/...ses/dsc_842911
http://trsphoto.exposuremanager.com/...ses/dsc_843014
http://trsphoto.exposuremanager.com/...isc/dsc_569537
and since I was posting all the others why not add the 11.56 run in my sig
BTW, I have my stock hood converted to a lift-off hood, it works well, but you have to realy think about where and how you will use the pins, I had 4 at first, but a few times down the track at over 115 and the front of the hood started lifting up. here are some pics and a vid or 2 where you see them lifting up, the pics show that I added 2 more pins at the very front.
With just 4 pins on the return road after a run, see the hood sticking up
http://trsphoto.exposuremanager.com/...ami/dsc_480231
It also looks like the hood shifted a lot with just the 4 pins, it was sitting flush when I was in the staging lanes but when I launched it popped up
http://trsphoto.exposuremanager.com/...ami/dsr_754050
http://trsphoto.exposuremanager.com/...ami/dsr_793531
vid of the hood starting to lift
and notice it lifting more each run, it actually started folding up
here are some pics of the hood after attaching the extra pins
http://trsphoto.exposuremanager.com/...ami/dsc_668444
http://trsphoto.exposuremanager.com/...ami/dsr_939122
http://trsphoto.exposuremanager.com/...ami/dsr_939224
http://trsphoto.exposuremanager.com/..._ami/dsr_94957
http://trsphoto.exposuremanager.com/...sses/dsc_86269
http://trsphoto.exposuremanager.com/...ami_/dsc_60331
http://trsphoto.exposuremanager.com/...ami_/dsc_60343
http://trsphoto.exposuremanager.com/...mi_/dsr_907829
http://trsphoto.exposuremanager.com/...isc/dsr_892139
http://trsphoto.exposuremanager.com/..._08/dsc_561133
this one you can see the undersid of the hood a little as it sits off next to the trailer for cooling between rounds
http://trsphoto.exposuremanager.com/...ses/dsc_842911
http://trsphoto.exposuremanager.com/...ses/dsc_843014
http://trsphoto.exposuremanager.com/...isc/dsc_569537
and since I was posting all the others why not add the 11.56 run in my sig
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 889
Likes: 0
From: Oviedo,Fl/Fairbanks,AK
Yes, I do have pictures of the doors. I did a really good write up on all of the work I did on my doors on my site, but with the issues it is having I can't get to anything. Here's the link to the pics in my thread:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/9213734-post134.html
I am planning on cutting some of the fiberglass out of the hatch, but I am waiting until I put in one of the speedglass drop in rear windows at the same time. If you take the cover off of the hatch you will notice certain areas are basically boxed. There's the outside, inside, and vertical supports between the two. on the inside ther is a decent amount to cut, but I don't think it'll weigh that much. I still plan on cutting it out as it is free weight reduction and the possible loss of integrity will be negligable.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/9213734-post134.html
I am planning on cutting some of the fiberglass out of the hatch, but I am waiting until I put in one of the speedglass drop in rear windows at the same time. If you take the cover off of the hatch you will notice certain areas are basically boxed. There's the outside, inside, and vertical supports between the two. on the inside ther is a decent amount to cut, but I don't think it'll weigh that much. I still plan on cutting it out as it is free weight reduction and the possible loss of integrity will be negligable.
Thanks for the link man. That is deff my next project for this weekend
Hows your cars coming along? Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 889
Likes: 0
From: Oviedo,Fl/Fairbanks,AK
Thanks man
[QUOTE=1SlowFormula;11667947]Wow, I just saw this thread, nice work, it looks like a red 6spd version of my car, hell you stripped out more metal than I have yet and I got my RW down to just under 2850# before I started adding weight back in because it was too fast (I race index style classes and needed to slow the car back down)...
BTW, I have my stock hood converted to a lift-off hood, it works well, but you have to realy think about where and how you will use the pins, I had 4 at first, but a few times down the track at over 115 and the front of the hood started lifting up. here are some pics and a vid or 2 where you see them lifting up, the pics show that I added 2 more pins at the very front.
It also looks like the hood shifted a lot with just the 4 pins, it was sitting flush when I was in the staging lanes but when I launched it popped up
Thanks man i appreciate it. Im actually in the process of switching over to a TH350 in the next month or so. Man i sure do hope i can get it down to a 2800-2850# RW. Im gonna cut my hood up and make it pin on aswell. Thanks for the info on the pins. I was going to just do 4 but it looks like im going to be doing 6. Thanks for all the pics and video's. BTW your car is pretty much what i am building mine to model...insperation if you will. Hopefully i can pull off some mid to low 11s with it. Thanks again for all the pics and kind words.
[QUOTE=1SlowFormula;11667947]Wow, I just saw this thread, nice work, it looks like a red 6spd version of my car, hell you stripped out more metal than I have yet and I got my RW down to just under 2850# before I started adding weight back in because it was too fast (I race index style classes and needed to slow the car back down)...
BTW, I have my stock hood converted to a lift-off hood, it works well, but you have to realy think about where and how you will use the pins, I had 4 at first, but a few times down the track at over 115 and the front of the hood started lifting up. here are some pics and a vid or 2 where you see them lifting up, the pics show that I added 2 more pins at the very front.
It also looks like the hood shifted a lot with just the 4 pins, it was sitting flush when I was in the staging lanes but when I launched it popped up
Thanks man i appreciate it. Im actually in the process of switching over to a TH350 in the next month or so. Man i sure do hope i can get it down to a 2800-2850# RW. Im gonna cut my hood up and make it pin on aswell. Thanks for the info on the pins. I was going to just do 4 but it looks like im going to be doing 6. Thanks for all the pics and video's. BTW your car is pretty much what i am building mine to model...insperation if you will. Hopefully i can pull off some mid to low 11s with it. Thanks again for all the pics and kind words.
Slow as *****. I am saving up money to have my Formula running again. I am going to be getting a moly 10 point cage in the next week or so for $150. It is for a convertible so I am going to have to mod it some, but for the price it is going to be hard to pass on. Once I get than in I am going to get a head liner and dash pad. That way I can put the interior harness, dash, interior panels, and seats back together in the car.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 889
Likes: 0
From: Oviedo,Fl/Fairbanks,AK
No problem. The door material doesn't take long at all. Just be forewarned that it makes a humongous mess. I'd wear one of those SARS masks when you go to do it.
Slow as *****. I am saving up money to have my Formula running again. I am going to be getting a moly 10 point cage in the next week or so for $150. It is for a convertible so I am going to have to mod it some, but for the price it is going to be hard to pass on. Once I get than in I am going to get a head liner and dash pad. That way I can put the interior harness, dash, interior panels, and seats back together in the car.
Slow as *****. I am saving up money to have my Formula running again. I am going to be getting a moly 10 point cage in the next week or so for $150. It is for a convertible so I am going to have to mod it some, but for the price it is going to be hard to pass on. Once I get than in I am going to get a head liner and dash pad. That way I can put the interior harness, dash, interior panels, and seats back together in the car.
I know how that is man my car has been apart since december. I cant wait to get it back moving under its own power instead of freakin pushing it around lol. That is a hell of a deal on the cage man i would deff pick it up. I want to atleast do a 6pt in my car but then again i dont want the added weight of it lol
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Verdad Gallardo Ill have to go pick one of those masks up this weekend. How do you think a angle grinder will work?
I know how that is man my car has been apart since december. I cant wait to get it back moving under its own power instead of freakin pushing it around lol. That is a hell of a deal on the cage man i would deff pick it up. I want to atleast do a 6pt in my car but then again i dont want the added weight of it lol
I know how that is man my car has been apart since december. I cant wait to get it back moving under its own power instead of freakin pushing it around lol. That is a hell of a deal on the cage man i would deff pick it up. I want to atleast do a 6pt in my car but then again i dont want the added weight of it lol
My formula hasn't moved in what will be 2 years on 6-3-09. My 93 has been apart since I bought it on 2-3-08. Pushing them does get old, but when you take a lot of weight out of them it makes it easier. I am pretty excited about the cage myself. I can actually start putting it back together and cut a lot more crap out of the car.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 889
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From: Oviedo,Fl/Fairbanks,AK
I would definetly get one of the masks. I used a small reciprocating air saw and air grinder. i think an angle grinder would work, but I would keep the RPMs down as the material is pretty easy to cut.
My formula hasn't moved in what will be 2 years on 6-3-09. My 93 has been apart since I bought it on 2-3-08. Pushing them does get old, but when you take a lot of weight out of them it makes it easier. I am pretty excited about the cage myself. I can actually start putting it back together and cut a lot more crap out of the car.
My formula hasn't moved in what will be 2 years on 6-3-09. My 93 has been apart since I bought it on 2-3-08. Pushing them does get old, but when you take a lot of weight out of them it makes it easier. I am pretty excited about the cage myself. I can actually start putting it back together and cut a lot more crap out of the car.
Man i couldn't imagine my car sitting for that long. Its driving me crazy after only sitting for 6 months. But it will be worth it in the end when it goes mid 11s with bolts on
Cutting your car up is an addiction man once i started i can't stop...pretty soon its just going to be windows and doors lol. Any thoughts on cutting out the metal where the battery tray is around the strut tower and on the other side where there airfilter and such go? 11 Second Club
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,089
Likes: 3
From: West Linn, Oregon
Thanks for the tips on it man. Ill make sure i post up pics of it when i get it done.
Man i couldn't imagine my car sitting for that long. Its driving me crazy after only sitting for 6 months. But it will be worth it in the end when it goes mid 11s with bolts on Cutting your car up is an addiction man once i started i can't stop...pretty soon its just going to be windows and doors lol. Any thoughts on cutting out the metal where the battery tray is around the strut tower and on the other side where there airfilter and such go?
Man i couldn't imagine my car sitting for that long. Its driving me crazy after only sitting for 6 months. But it will be worth it in the end when it goes mid 11s with bolts on
Cutting your car up is an addiction man once i started i can't stop...pretty soon its just going to be windows and doors lol. Any thoughts on cutting out the metal where the battery tray is around the strut tower and on the other side where there airfilter and such go?
https://ls1tech.com/forums/staff-veh...l#post11620409
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 889
Likes: 0
From: Oviedo,Fl/Fairbanks,AK
dlove has a few pictures in this thread where he did it to his
https://ls1tech.com/forums/staff-veh...l#post11620409
https://ls1tech.com/forums/staff-veh...l#post11620409
thanks man ill have to check it out when i get off work.
If you aren't going to cut the whole front off and want to remove that metal I would replace it with a very thing gauge piece of aluminum. Look up Skinnies old firebird thread. He did something similar to what I'm talking about.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 889
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From: Oviedo,Fl/Fairbanks,AK
Well i finally figured out my axle issue and got that fixed. I guess 98-02 axle shafts are 1/8" shorter then 93-96 shafts. I got a set of axles out of a 95 and they worked perfectly now i just have to get them drilled for the 1/2" wheel studs.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 889
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From: Oviedo,Fl/Fairbanks,AK
Got some more work done today. I put on the GMPP opti, installed my CSR EWP into the housing and got it installed, put on a EGR block of kit. Then i pulled out the grinder and cut up the rear hatch alittle bit
Heres a few pics of the progress...Enjoy
Heres a few pics of the progress...Enjoy
11 Second Club
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,089
Likes: 3
From: West Linn, Oregon
ahh good idea on the hatch, I didn't think about that one, I will do that as soon as I get the car back from getting the cage put in...
BTW, since mine doesn't hit the street, those wires going to the 3rd light are already gone from mine, not much of a weight savings, but I think there is a ton of useless wire in these cars...
BTW, since mine doesn't hit the street, those wires going to the 3rd light are already gone from mine, not much of a weight savings, but I think there is a ton of useless wire in these cars...
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 889
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From: Oviedo,Fl/Fairbanks,AK
The hatch thing really didn't save much weight maybe 1.5-2 pounds...but every pound counts towards the 2800# goal . Man oh man are there a ton of those use less wires. Ive already taken all of the airbag wiring, radio harness and power seat harness.
Do you know if i can plug up all of the outlets on the WP that went to the heater core and the one on the drivers side that goes to the rad?? Im thinking about going to a griffen radiator. How do i hook up the steam crossover pipe to the radiator if i do go to a griffen??
. Man oh man are there a ton of those use less wires. Ive already taken all of the airbag wiring, radio harness and power seat harness. Do you know if i can plug up all of the outlets on the WP that went to the heater core and the one on the drivers side that goes to the rad?? Im thinking about going to a griffen radiator. How do i hook up the steam crossover pipe to the radiator if i do go to a griffen??
11 Second Club
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,089
Likes: 3
From: West Linn, Oregon
The wires going to the side of the rad are for the level sensor (low coolant) light, and yeah I pulled them too, in my car I pulled every wire from every system not in use all the way back to the fuse box or even took the pin out of the ECM. It was more than 50# of wire all said and done...
I agree to the ever # counts theory, I have heard it mayny times from racers who are just looking to loose 5-10 # it is much easier to find many things that add up to it then one thing to remove that gets it taken off, or as some other guys say, it's easier to fine 16 one ounce things to pull, then 1 one pound item...
as far as the new rad, you only need the inlet and outlet so it shouldn't be a big deal, just loop the steam tube into the inlet to the rad, I have pics of how I did mine somewhere, if I find them I will post them for you, but again mine is the stock rad for now...
I agree to the ever # counts theory, I have heard it mayny times from racers who are just looking to loose 5-10 # it is much easier to find many things that add up to it then one thing to remove that gets it taken off, or as some other guys say, it's easier to fine 16 one ounce things to pull, then 1 one pound item...
as far as the new rad, you only need the inlet and outlet so it shouldn't be a big deal, just loop the steam tube into the inlet to the rad, I have pics of how I did mine somewhere, if I find them I will post them for you, but again mine is the stock rad for now...