i can only buy 2 drag rims. front or back?
01-19-2009, 01:40 PM
#1
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 105
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i can only buy 2 drag rims. front or back? hey all,
ive finished 90% of my car but im just about out of money. eventually i will get 4 drag wheels and tires but for now i dont wanna spend the money on that.
right now the car sits on 97' chrome 5 star rims ( i know very heavy) with a bald 245 nitto drag radial in rear. i had planned up stepping up to a 275 et street radial before the car gets driven regardless.
now the question: would i see a potential greater reduction off my ET by buying skinnies for the front ( nice to lighten up the front end) or get a lightweight back wheel with probably a full slick.
so, what do you think?
ive finished 90% of my car but im just about out of money. eventually i will get 4 drag wheels and tires but for now i dont wanna spend the money on that.
right now the car sits on 97' chrome 5 star rims ( i know very heavy) with a bald 245 nitto drag radial in rear. i had planned up stepping up to a 275 et street radial before the car gets driven regardless.
now the question: would i see a potential greater reduction off my ET by buying skinnies for the front ( nice to lighten up the front end) or get a lightweight back wheel with probably a full slick.
so, what do you think?
Trending Topics
01-19-2009, 02:55 PM
#10
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: hamilton nj
Posts: 1,830
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i bought 2 then i bought 4 wheels and tires a set of weld rears greg weld fronts then i got a maching greg weld rears sold the weld rears now i hav the jegs ones that i think ima mount nittos on for the street lol o and a set of skinny jegs r 99ea
01-19-2009, 03:00 PM
#11
Do the front's 1st that will get weight off the front.
The big issue is the rear rim you pick is supposed to accomdate for the tire, if your not going wider then stock then your really fine but if you were looking at something like a 15 x10, then your not going to run the tire you planned on and all the data you get from racing on that tire will be moot once you move up. Your still get exp running the car but things like tire psi, and rear tire size can change the results by alot.
As for rim, pick one that is light and will clear the brakes, unless you like grinding.
I also will mention, I do think Jeg's weld knock offs are heavier then a Weld Draglite. I would look into that before buying. I am getting Convo Pros since they clear stock LS1 brakes, they are lighter, they look decent and they are decently priced. HAD greg weld rears fit on LS1 stuff, id look at that too.
The big issue is the rear rim you pick is supposed to accomdate for the tire, if your not going wider then stock then your really fine but if you were looking at something like a 15 x10, then your not going to run the tire you planned on and all the data you get from racing on that tire will be moot once you move up. Your still get exp running the car but things like tire psi, and rear tire size can change the results by alot.
As for rim, pick one that is light and will clear the brakes, unless you like grinding.
I also will mention, I do think Jeg's weld knock offs are heavier then a Weld Draglite. I would look into that before buying. I am getting Convo Pros since they clear stock LS1 brakes, they are lighter, they look decent and they are decently priced. HAD greg weld rears fit on LS1 stuff, id look at that too.
01-19-2009, 03:49 PM
#13
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 105
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
ok sounds good. i kinda figured that would be best because your taking off way more weight going from a 16x8 to a 15x3.5 then going to a 15x10, not to mention the weight of the tires.
traction shouldn't be that much of an issue regardless
only question: i know reducing rotating mass is equivalent to 3 times its weight in non rotating, sprung weight ( 1 lb of wheel is like taking 3 off the car) or something like that. does that formula change when the wheel is being powered(back) or if its just free spinning (front) i dont think it would but id like to confirm that
traction shouldn't be that much of an issue regardless
only question: i know reducing rotating mass is equivalent to 3 times its weight in non rotating, sprung weight ( 1 lb of wheel is like taking 3 off the car) or something like that. does that formula change when the wheel is being powered(back) or if its just free spinning (front) i dont think it would but id like to confirm that
01-19-2009, 04:43 PM
#15
If you are going to spend money do it right the first time and get something like the Greg weld fronts or real prostars / draglites. If it is strictly for drag racing get a bias plye front runner also. You can save 18 lbs over running a 185 front radial tire.
01-19-2009, 05:35 PM
#16
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: DSM
Posts: 1,433
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm dealing with the same problems you are.. I want wider tires, but until the end of summer looks like I'll have to stay with the 17x9" factory rims and 275 drag radials all around
01-19-2009, 05:56 PM
#20
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: DSM
Posts: 1,433
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yeah, I know.. that was his setup and I gave him **** about it for cornering.. but the car is just sitting in my garage right now, so I'm going to find some different front tires and keep the DR's in back and a spare for when I want it.
I got until April until my car will see the streets again, so I should be fine with tires
It was just an all out-trade and I was desperate for 2 sets of DR's traded for 2 sets of Summotomo 275 that are more worn than his DR's (his only had like 400 miles on them with no abuse)
I got until April until my car will see the streets again, so I should be fine with tires
It was just an all out-trade and I was desperate for 2 sets of DR's traded for 2 sets of Summotomo 275 that are more worn than his DR's (his only had like 400 miles on them with no abuse)