ElkySS

iTrader: (6)

i need a little help putting my motor together on paper. I want to make 600rwhp and still be daily driven. im thinking Ai's forged 383 rotating assembly with billet 4-bolt splayed mains and a DS1C procharger. the problem im having is choosing a H/C package.i want to make 600rwhp before an undetermined amount of nitrous. can anyone help me out with this? i was thinking maybe ported trick flows and a custom cam.

I8ASaleen

iTrader: (9)

A healthy low-compression 383 with a large blower, blower cam, and some very good ported aftermarket heads will get you there. Have a talk with the head builders and tell them what plans you have. Also are you going to use aftermarket engine management? How are you going to fuel it? Is the tranny built for 600rwhp? How 'bout the rearend? All these things come into play - I looked into about the same thing you are and it's really very involved. It's also a good idea to lounge around in the forced induction area of the board and maybe some of the advanced tech too.

ElkySS

iTrader: (6)

well my cars an M6 so it should stand up to it, atleast for a little while. im planning on getting a moser 9 way before that motor ever goes in. if its possible to do it on the stock pcm ill probably just stick with that. as far as fueling goes ill probably look into a dual walbro setup.

z_speedfreak

iTrader: (3)

its possible but not ideal for that set up. I'd dig through the LT1 dyno archive and see what worked for other people aswell.

blackz6sp

iTrader: (11)

Check CALL911 out!

http://videos.streetfire.net/video/M...ost_145597.htm

http://videos.streetfire.net/video/S...e-o_143127.htm

Looks like about the setup your lookin for

OutlawZ

iTrader: (4)

and AI heads and cam setup or one of the lloyd elliot deal will do it..... I'd say do a 383 with 4 bolt mains like you said. good rods, nice forged JE or diamond pistons.... and a nice crank like lunati or eagle if money is tight...

with that procharger you should be able to see 600RWHP.... can't really go wrong with h&c choice as long as it's a reputable shop.... boost is gonna be your headflow....

YSILT1

iTrader: (6)

You are going to want to stay around the 220/230 range on a 115 or 116 LSA. Anything more and you wont have vacuum for your brakes. A 224/ 236 in a 383 with a T-trim at 10lbs and I made 636RWHP and still had vacuum. I now have hydro boost and a 242/248 and a YSi with 20lbs should be 800RWHP once I finish the Meth Kit.

robsquikz28

iTrader: (246)

pick up A.I heads and cam package you can easily do it with....my brother has that on his car with stock cast heads ported to max with a A.I cam and making over 600..this year will be A.I heads for more power

z28rob18

iTrader: (7)

yeah hit up AI they'll get you there and you got the right idea with the forged 383

z28rob18

iTrader: (7)

what you mean by lose vaccuum with a cam bigger then 220/230? is there a way to fix that im plannin on a cam more in the 242/24x-25x range on my 383 build and i still need the brakes lol

myltwon

iTrader: (1)

if you are going n/a or nitrous you won't have to worry about vacuum as much

boost = negative vacuum

z28rob18

iTrader: (7)

alright thats wat i thought.

I8ASaleen

iTrader: (9)

I think it's the other way around vacuum = -atmospheric pressure but whateva

myltwon

iTrader: (1)

yeah I just meant the opposite lol

vacuum is negative, boost is postive, hence why you look at a boost/vacuum gauge boost it clockwise and vacuum is counterclockwise

YSILT1

iTrader: (6)

I went with a hydro booster out of a astro van. It maybe cost 300 bucks for everything. Its a direct bolt in.

YSILT1

iTrader: (6)

A cam with 240's will only have 5 to 8 inchs of vacuum. The booster needs 15 inchs + to work correctly.

slomarao

iTrader: (6)

With a D1 and some decent heads there is no reason why you should go bigger than a 220/230 on 114 or something like that. Not needed.

AI's 200cc, D1@12psi, something close to a xe 224/236 or 214/224 blower grind and a forged bottom end should be no problem hitting 600rw.

Are you planing on using ATI's IC with your D1 or something custom?

The only thing that really caught my eye was the fact that your planin n2o also. And I'm guessing its going to be a larger shot because you are undetermined. That will really make things interesting.

Buy quality bottom end parts, otherwise things may not playout in your favor.

Overall should be one sick setup when its said and done. Goodluck bro.

ElkySS

iTrader: (6)

well i dont have the money for the motor right now im just trying to build the motor on paper before i actually have the money. i have a tendency to **** money away pretty easily. the amount of nitrous is undetermined because i want to keep it reliable and im not sure how much nitrous i can spray and still retain reliability.

Grr

iTrader: (2)

My car, a forged 355 with completely stock unported heads made around 600whp on 13psi, so any type of ported head should get there on a 383. I would suggest going with a F1 of some type though, that D1 will be out of breath at about 650whp

phantomLT1

iTrader: (2)

Heres my question to you have you ever driven a car or been in a car on the street that has over 500rwhp to the ground? A real 500 rwhp car not just somebody saying its got it.