OutlawZ

iTrader: (4)

Yup.... seems that I might have tightened the nylocks on my valve cover studs too tight (can't see how since I barely tightened them much) and the heat expansion thru the stud caused them to pull against the nylock nut and snap in half. Now what's left of the stud is stuck in the head. The studs are pretty tiny so I know they are going to be a royal PITA to get out even with a drill bit and an easy out... I'm pretty sure they were locktited as well during assembly....

anyone got any tips? These are perimeter studs and not the centerbolt style. I CANNOT BELIEVE this happened. the studs are hardened which is going to make drilling them damn near impossible....

Going downstairs to cry now....

myltwon

iTrader: (1)

well atleast it's a valve cover bolt, worse bolts have broken off

officermartinez

iTrader: (1)

Yeah.. two of my bolts that hold on my exhaust manifolds split off and snapped. I am told it was common with LT1's (due to possible heat and a sub-par bolts used from the factory). The GM Tech might have been blowing smoke for all I know.. LOL. Sorry to hear about your bolts on your valve covers!

lifeisgood

iTrader: (4)

you can get them out. you may have to take the heads off but they will come out

speed_demon24

iTrader: (6)

Actually them heating up will cause them to expand in length decreasing the stress on them.

shbox

If you are going to have to drill, start with a left twist bit. It might spin them out before you get too far.

TwoFast4Lv

iTrader: (8)

Good advice. Start small and go slow

Bummer Jason!

BizZzatch350

iTrader: (33)

Race car breaking all sorts of stuff.

taner

iTrader: (6)

heat will also make the loctite 'release' it's hold on the studs. i fell bad for ya, but imagine a clutch exploding at over 5500 rpm at 80 mph...... hope that makes you fell a little better

OutlawZ

iTrader: (4)

yeah i've got a torch to hopefully pull the loctite's hold on them..... problem i'm having now is getting the things to want to drill.. they seem like they are hardened bolts and i'm having a hard time getting any drill bit to even bite a hole in them.....

skanitz1

I've used a cutoff wheel on a dremel to cut a slot in broken bolts, so I could get them out with a flat-head screw driver... if you can do it without damaging the head. Or you could always look around for a shop in California that uses metal disintegration for bolt removal. I read an article on it in a motorcycle magazine a while back... it looks like it works pretty well. I searched google and it looks like there are quite a few places that do that out there. hope this helps!

Formula350

iTrader: (3)

:S I don't quite condone using the torch in an area with lots of oil, and more so on aluminum. We just worked on a Saturn with a snapped bolt. Was loads of fun since the owners (or someone) snapped an Easy-Out in it! Drilling hardened steel is nigh impossible. With that, I still recommend doing the Easy-Out method. Just lay a bunch of wet rags (helps collect shavings and less messy than oil soaked) around the head and then drill out the center of the snapped bolts. If you do manage to snap one of the Easy-Outs, well then you're in for a treat :\ I'll be happy to share our method of fixing it, but it's not pretty! Thankfully it's just valve cover bolts.

I think the VC bolts are only 88in-lbs. This site says 100in-lbs for the LT1, but on this iron head CPI I just re-gasketed, ALLDATA said 88in-lbs. I would think iron heads would be higher than aluminums... but what do I know lol

Formula350

iTrader: (3)

That's another good method, but I think considering they broke off with a socket on the bolt head, it may not work in this instance. That was one thing we tried with the Easy-Out, along with trying to tack-weld a bolt to it :\

FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

I would use a PROPANE torch and a left handed drill bit to start, see where that gets you.

Also have you seen those little deals that is a drill/easy out combo? It drills down into the bolt then further up the bit the easy out will grab it.

If your are 1/4 bolts like mine are, its gonna be tough.

I used allen head bolts to avoid this kinda deal.

skanitz1

This is what I was talking about... http://www.extractit.com/ they're supposed to be able to remove broken bolts without damage to the part it's being removed from. I have no idea on cost though. lol

Formula350

iTrader: (3)

I was referring to a propane hand held torch Anyone crazy enough to even think about an Oxy-Acetylene, needs to rethink wrenching on vehicles

I've seen those infomercials on that Grabit, and honestly... taking out broken cam cap in an OHC head is pretty far fetched me thinks >_>

But, someone has to try it out for us to know
http://www.getgrabit.com/

OutlawZ

iTrader: (4)

i went down there tonight and shed some more tears.... i thought about and looked at the idea of slicing the slot in it for a screwdriver but only problem is on the AFR 227's with perimeter valve cover bolts the holes where the studs go is in a recessed channel of the outer portion of the head.... I can't get in there with a cutoff wheel.... so it's either going to be drilling and using an ez out or attempting something like that grab-it thing which i don't think is gonna work....

i might just drop off the car with my fab guy and mechanic and tell him i'll give him a hundred bucks or so if he can get them out so i don't have to deal with it... I'm getting ready to test for my next rank (iin the military) and i don't have time to deal with this headache..... crazy ****.... thanks for all the ideas fellas...

TwoFast4Lv

iTrader: (8)

If you don't have it done man Just remember...start small and go slow I take broken bolts out of aluminum all the time You ARE going to need some heat to release the loc-tite

Formula350

iTrader: (3)

I didn't want to recommend this until you tried other methods, but if the EZ Out isn't working.... Seeing as you have nice heads this is truly a last resort.... Take a drill bit bigger than the snapped bolt, and drill out the bolt and some of the head. Then tap that hole and put in a Helicoil back to the size of the VC bolts. If you snap an EZ Out though, this method is basically tossed out the window due to how hardened the EZs are :\

OK I just noticed that you said you run the perimeter valve covers and not center bolt. I'll leave that up there anyways, but seeing as you don't have a lot of area to work with, that's really not a viable method to try. You could still go partially with that, and after you drill the center of the bolt out with a smaller bit, take one that's just slightly smaller than the bolt.

Also, seeing that it's on the outside of the head now, a propane torch actually wouldn't be a bad idea now. I only didn't like the idea before because I thought it was center bolt and you'd have to heat up the head more than in the location it actually is. I still don't really like heating up the head but it's better than drilling with bigger bits

Which ever way you go, good luck!

OutlawZ

iTrader: (4)

I'm tossing around the idea of bringing the car to my fabricator.... A buddy of mine told me about a way he had it done before by a friend who was a SICK tig welder... said they fabbed a bolt head with the center drilled out the same size as the stuck stud. Put it over the stud and welded a rosette in teh hole of the bolt head so it attached itself to the stud... then they used the bolt head to simply unscrew the broken bolt.... it's interesting and COULD work... but it'll take a hell of a welder with pretty steady hands....

or I can just bring it to my fabricator since he's got way better drill bits than what i got....