SmartOJ

iTrader: (44)

well im sure many of you have read my "Horrible Running Z Thread", well i think i found my problem. when the car would not start, it still had a strong spark thru an inline spark test and fuel pressure never dropped below 44psi. i put another module on and still a no start.

well today me and a friend got out there fooling with the car a made a major discovery.saw fuel coming out of the driverside head coolant bolt dripping to the ground.glad i didnt start a fire. WHY in the world would gas be coming out of there. evidently i have gas leaking into the engine at a rapid rate and is flooding bad enough to cause gas to come out of there. and i mean alot of gas.and before anyone ask no its not coolant because there is no coolant in the engine yet. and all the areas surrounding the bolt are dry except where the washer between coolant bolt and head.

this would explain why i have to hold the pedal to clear a flood to fire but still wont run.and i already have the oil draining as we speak......im listening, really need you alls help so where do i begin?

94LTZ

iTrader: (5)

I'm at a loss enless you have some **** really screwed up on how you would hook up the fuel lines... I don't see how it could be running out of there.. you sure it's not leaking out of the fuel rail some where and going down that way?

SmartOJ

iTrader: (44)

funny thing is the fuel rail and vacuum line to regulator are dry................my guess is as good as yours

01FbTaWs6

iTrader: (12)

thats impossible. You would have to fill the entire water jacket of the car, full to the heads with fuel before it would come out of the crossover pipe. And if youve done that, you have a SERIOUS SERIOUS issue. To get fuel into the coolant jacket seems impossible....

SmartOJ

iTrader: (44)

that serious problem i may have is starting to "sound" frealistic because i am getting a weird noise from the driver side head that is leaking now. sounds like the noise is coming from the area where the headgasket is.im praying to God that its just a really bad exhaust leak at the manifold.............

SmartOJ

iTrader: (44)

ok guys i have an update. just left from out there again....freezing....found the fuel leak.my mistake.

the fuel is actually coming from the #3 injector on the top side where it plugs into the rail.when u prime the pump u can hear it spraying the fuel.u can c the fuel running down the intake to the back of the intake. but it still doesnt seem like enough to be the culprit of my no-start....keep in mind i have good module,great pressure, and have spark during the no start

madhatter

Well maybe more than 1 injector is leaking. Take the rail off and turn the key on. See how many are leaking. If it is flooding it won't start as well.

gjohnsonws6

iTrader: (12)

Put in new o-rings?

SmartOJ

iTrader: (44)

its not an internal leak where it would directly drip into intake. its external as in the top of the injector where it would plug into the fuel rail.

i would think that once i clear the flood and it fires it should keep running and not die. i hav an feeling that this may be a coincedental issue and not the primary one but i may be wrong.ive been so up and down with this car....it gets you down!!!!!!!!!!!

riceburnerZ28

iTrader: (20)

Make sure the clip that holds the injector is snug. I know there's a o-ring on the bottom of the injector...I think there is one at the top as well...it might be worn out.

airfix

iTrader: (30)

Theres an o-ring on the tope end of the injector where it goies into the rail and a o-ring on the bottom end where it goes in to the intake mainfold. Inspect all o-ring on both sides of the injectors, it would prob be a good Idea to replace them all, There cheap and it shouldnt take longer than half hour.

Puck

iTrader: (17)

Borrow a fuel pressure gauge, you need to check the leakdown rate.

Turn the car into ACC to let the pump prime, and check the peak PSI then monitor how long it takes to bleed down. It should lose pressure gradually - if it drops to zero right after the pump finishes priming then you most likely have multiple leaking injectors or a bad check valve on your fuel pump.

Your FPR may be bad also - pull the vacuum line and check for fuel in there. If fuel comes out, the diaphragm has burst and you need to replace your FPR.

SmartOJ

iTrader: (44)

not to be rude not sure if you have read it, but ive already done that.i pulled the FPR vacuum and kept priming the pump...not a dribble came out. and the pressure is holding...

Puck

iTrader: (17)

Oh, okay. Just doesn't say anywhere that you tested the leakdown rate. You can have perfectly fine pressure, and still have problems if there is a bad check valve and instant leakdown.

meissenation

iTrader: (2)

Just so ya know - when you put the gas pedal to the floor when you start the car you're telling the PCM to start in "clear flood" mode which turns the fuel injectors off so there's no more fuel being supplied to your cylinders and the spark plugs are just burning what fuel is left in the chamber. So if you're having to hold the gas pedal down to get the car to start - yeah, it's flooded.

SmartOJ

iTrader: (44)

ok guys i fixed the o-ring on the injector but come to find out the car still has the no start when warm. now i have a thourough inspection and here are all the details

Ignition module-swapped with known good one,no solution

Fuel Presure-Guage holds a steady 44psi with just the ignition on not running and the pressure did not drop watsoever over a 10 minute time span.when i turn the ignition OFF, the pressure DOES NOT drop to zero psi.it holds a steady 44psi It doesnt get back down to 0psi till the car has ben sitting for several hours and cold again.so that rules out the pump and check valve.

Fuel Pressure Regulator-no fuel out of vaccuum side and pressure rose close to 50psi when vaccumline is off of the regulator when the car is running.assuming its good.

Injectors- i pulled the fuel rail and cut ignition on.while i was checking leakdown and payed attention to the injectors. the injectors did not let one dribble come out of any of em while pressure held at 44psi.Assuming my injectors are fine.

only two things i can think of that are left is the optispark and the ignition coil.but after it warms up and turns into a "fire but wont run" i still have spark coming thru the inline spark tester. What gives???????????

AChotrod

iTrader: (17)

try disconneting the maf and starting it

SmartOJ

iTrader: (44)

already tried that too, even tried it with o2 sensors unplugged.....

AChotrod

iTrader: (17)

who adjusted the rockers and how?

SmartOJ

iTrader: (44)

can anybody give me a direct testing procedure for the opti and a procedure for the coil.even though im still getting fire to plugs when it wont start, how can i check for weak spark? as in weak coil.........