LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

LT1 Block Machining Cost...what to expect?

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Old 12-28-2009, 07:48 PM
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Default LT1 Block Machining Cost...what to expect?

How much would it run to have the machine shop perform the following to a bare LT1 block? I'm looking for a rough cost. Any info would be greatly appreciated.

Bored .030 over
precision hone
square deck
shot peened and magnafluxed
four bolt main conversion with steel main caps
Stroker clearanced
line bored to blue printed specs
lifter bores cleaned and indexed
sonic tested cylinder walls
oil galley plugs re-installed
New cam bearings
brass freeze plugs.
Old 12-28-2009, 08:09 PM
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bout $600
Old 12-28-2009, 09:06 PM
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Id say mor like $1000.00 the main cap conversion is not cheap! I am guessing you want them to supply the caps.
Old 12-28-2009, 09:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Blackbirdws6
How much would it run to have the machine shop perform the following to a bare LT1 block? I'm looking for a rough cost. Any info would be greatly appreciated.

Bored .030 over
precision hone
square deck
shot peened and magnafluxed
four bolt main conversion with steel main caps
Stroker clearanced
line bored to blue printed specs
lifter bores cleaned and indexed
sonic tested cylinder walls
oil galley plugs re-installed
New cam bearings
brass freeze plugs.
Here's what I paid last year for similar services;

$35.00 Jet Clean Block
$39.83 Freeze plugs (installed)
$120.00 Deck Block (optional, but good for optimizing quench)
$175.00 0.030" overbore w/plate (optional, if your cylinder walls are in good shape)
$297.00 4-bolt main cap (optional, but recommended for high cylinder pressure applications)
$500.00 4-bolt main machining / installation (optional, but recommended for high cylinder pressure applications)
$91.80 Main Studs (optional, but recommended for high cylinder pressure applications)
$74.99 Main Bearings (installed)
$74.96 Rod Bearings (installed)
$55.00 Weld Block (when breaking into water jacket while clearancing)
I don't have a price on sonic check




Additional Items you might consider;

$45.00 Boil Block
$51.48 Cam bearings (installed)

$310.00 1/2 fill block (optional, but recommended for high cylinder pressure applications)
$650.00 Longblock assembly (race) (optional, you could do this yourself. Tight tolerances are critical)
$75.00 Degree Cam (optional, but highly recommended. Cranks, timing sets and cams are mass-produced to various tolerances)
$40.00 Timing cover alterations (optional, but allows removal of waterpump driveshaft for EWP applications)
$32.00 Piston assembly (8) (optional, you could do this yourself. Tight tolerances are critical)
$40.00 Pushrod Length check (optional, you could do this yourself. Tight tolerances are critical)
$150.00 Balance Rotating Assembly (could be more if Mallory is required; $100/slug)

$162.99 Head studs (optional, but recommended for high cylinder pressure applications)
$120.00 Head stud Installation (optional, but recommended for high cylinder pressure applications)

$550.00 Dyno tune (usually cheaper if you are updating an existing tune from that vendor)
Old 12-28-2009, 11:24 PM
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**** gets expensive!!
Old 12-28-2009, 11:29 PM
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Some of that stuff can be done yourself. Its not that hard to install your own main studs, main bearings, rod bearings. Same goes for head studs. Check your own clearances, etc.

What James posted is pretty ideal for what you should look for in pricing.
Old 12-29-2009, 04:47 AM
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Originally Posted by James Montigny
Here's what I paid last year for similar services;

$35.00 Jet Clean Block
$39.83 Freeze plugs (installed)
$120.00 Deck Block (optional, but good for optimizing quench)
$175.00 0.030" overbore w/plate (optional, if your cylinder walls are in good shape)
$297.00 4-bolt main cap (optional, but recommended for high cylinder pressure applications)
$500.00 4-bolt main machining / installation (optional, but recommended for high cylinder pressure applications)
$91.80 Main Studs (optional, but recommended for high cylinder pressure applications)
$74.99 Main Bearings (installed)
$74.96 Rod Bearings (installed)
$55.00 Weld Block (when breaking into water jacket while clearancing)
I don't have a price on sonic check




Additional Items you might consider;

$45.00 Boil Block
$51.48 Cam bearings (installed)

$310.00 1/2 fill block (optional, but recommended for high cylinder pressure applications)
$650.00 Longblock assembly (race) (optional, you could do this yourself. Tight tolerances are critical)
$75.00 Degree Cam (optional, but highly recommended. Cranks, timing sets and cams are mass-produced to various tolerances)
$40.00 Timing cover alterations (optional, but allows removal of waterpump driveshaft for EWP applications)
$32.00 Piston assembly (8) (optional, you could do this yourself. Tight tolerances are critical)
$40.00 Pushrod Length check (optional, you could do this yourself. Tight tolerances are critical)
$150.00 Balance Rotating Assembly (could be more if Mallory is required; $100/slug)

$162.99 Head studs (optional, but recommended for high cylinder pressure applications)
$120.00 Head stud Installation (optional, but recommended for high cylinder pressure applications)

$550.00 Dyno tune (usually cheaper if you are updating an existing tune from that vendor)
That is some excellent info. Thank you for posting. I'm looking at a deal on a block which has already been machined and seeing if the pricing is competitive with what I should expect. I was thinking of buying a used LT1 shortblock or just a good bare block and going from there. I found one with the machine work I was looking to have done anyway but had no idea if the pricing was right.

Thanks again.
Old 12-29-2009, 07:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Blackbirdws6
That is some excellent info. Thank you for posting. I'm looking at a deal on a block which has already been machined and seeing if the pricing is competitive with what I should expect. I was thinking of buying a used LT1 shortblock or just a good bare block and going from there. I found one with the machine work I was looking to have done anyway but had no idea if the pricing was right.

Thanks again.
Make sure to have the block checked by a shop.
It's worth the investment.

If someone did their own work (or had a "budget" machinist do it) and somehow was off by .010"
on a main stud, had to resize/offset journals or half-assed the welding to fix the water jacket,
you could be buying more trouble than you realize.

I got screwed a few years back when I bought a forged 355 that turned out to be stock deck
(he said it was zero) and had two of its main caps switched. That caused me to ruin perfectly
good crank and rods and run a crazy-high CR without knowing it. Cost me almost $1000 plus
the cost of a crank to fix it all, not including assembly or install work. (almost justified just buying new parts).

Originally Posted by halucinator
Check your own clearances
Absolutely critical to get this right.
I think more people leave power on the table due to poor assembly then poor part choice.
Old 12-29-2009, 07:54 AM
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Originally Posted by slow95
Id say mor like $1000.00 the main cap conversion is not cheap! I am guessing you want them to supply the caps.
my main caps/conversion cost me $650 **** adds up and fast



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