jay7199

iTrader: (9)

Im rebuilding the block for the T/A but more and more stuff that needs to be replaced keeps coming up I think the 355 is going to be a little bit out of my price range.

So my question is, when I have the new rod bearings installed should I have new ARP rod bolts installed? With my 98 ls1 I had heard bad things about weak rod bolts and never wanted to rev that car very high because of it.

So my question is with this old lt1 with a stock short block, 306 cam, ported heads. Should I get ARP rod bolts? whats the estimate max rev for the motor with and without the rod bolts. Car is going to run on 93 oct, i try to always go to chevron for gas with techron

BigBadWhitey

iTrader: (3)

I would get the ARP rod bolts, cheap security, but as to what it will rev to safely, no idea.

ls2pontiac

iTrader: (1)

put forged pistons in too, a set of mahle powerpaks is only $500

jay7199

iTrader: (9)

i wanted to do that ls2pontiac, but after the machine work, the rod bolts, a new cam, new rockers, maybe new lifters, new headers, new gaskets, new rod bearings, new hub, new alt, new injectors, fuel pressure regulator, the port on the heads.

the list got big and expensive.. so $500 on pistons could cover a few of the items on the list.

TheDon619

iTrader: (4)

summit makes a rebult kit for the lt1 thats 350 and includes all the partss ud need to rebuild it back to stock or options to go .30, .40, and .60 over. .30 over=355. u can choose forged pistons from speed pro as an option included int he price. and the stock rods with ARP bolts can pretty safely see just about any rpm ud ever use on the street

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

If it's a budget conscious N/A application then there is no reason to spend the extra money to use forged pistons.

my1994z28

iTrader: (3)

I would use ARP studs for the mains...I have a new set in the box,55.00 shhipped.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

I would not go swapping from bolts to studs without a line hone. Different fasteners induce different distortion and the machining should be done with the fastener you intend to use.

wrd1972

iTrader: (12)

Agreed

383 Z

^^
true

and personally if i was you i wouldnt bother with getting different lifters. I am running the cc xfi 292 using the factory roller lifters, 1.6 rr arms, hardened 1 piece pushrods, and some beehives with no problems.

I was on a very very tight budget so i know how that is. i vote going with some 30 over hypereutectics and some 1 piece pushrods + what you said above. if you build the top endyou can rev the **** out of it, but its all about what you want to do. i dont know the power curve on the 306 so you might not be reving it that high

TheDon619

iTrader: (4)

those the studs r worth it

Jcl_96TA

iTrader: (1)

Yah. I would go arp on the mains all day. The forged pistons are not really necessary imo.

Jazz-LT1

iTrader: (2)

Wow, lots of difference in opinions. I'd definitely go forged pistons but would stay with bolts instead of studs on the mains UNLESS you can line hone. The line hone makes a big difference and without it the advantage of the studs is very likely lost anyway. If you EVER have any intention of spraying the car, even a little bit, put the forged pistons in.

Definitely ARP rod bolts. No question there.

bombebomb

I see no reason to run a forged piston on a N/A non high horsepower engine.

jay7199

iTrader: (9)

well im looking at the rebuild kit suggested.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FE...-300/?rtype=10

this would be great, how ever i have a question. why does the compression on this kit run lower then the kit with forged piston set?

any sponsors who make a kit aswell feel from to chime in

slomarao

iTrader: (6)

With the 306 cam and headwork you should be fine, but having some extra protection would be nice. But i think your budget will be making the final decision.

Now if you can swing the extra loot to do the hone and studs it would be much better than forged pistons because you want high rpm stability. With how high the 306 peaks it would be alot better to do the studs/hone instead of the boring/pistons.

The forged pistons are only really going to help out if your spraying the car.

jay7199

iTrader: (9)

no spray no boost. N/A cruise car

my1994z28

iTrader: (3)

I never said use the studs and all would be wellAlways get a line hone no matter what..Its just good insurance when taking the motor up to 6500 or higher..That 306 cam loves high rpms

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

You would be just fine w/ a stock rotating assembly. If you find it in your budget to at least do rod bolts then that would be about the most you would need if you wanted to rev to 6500 or higher on a daily basis. Hell you may even get away with a stock piston depending on the condition of the cylinders.

jay7199

iTrader: (9)

I could get away with alot of things, but I want to say, hey this car has a 355. Its a lt1, around here there is 3 lt1's that ever come to the meet pretty much. I want to have a nice clean lt1 with some stuff done to it. I planed to do this down the road but since the motor went out on me already I wana do it now.

Im on a budget but I don't want to throw a longblock in temp.

I want a 355 block, the 306 and to paint it Pontiac blue. So im trying to go with the cheapest and most reliable way. So I figure this rebuild kit will work but im still wondering about the compression.