Engine break in?
05-25-2010, 10:30 AM
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Engine break in? I recently had my lt apart and put all new bearings in as well as honed the walls and put in new rings. I imagine there is a break in period, how long is it and what oil should i use on first start up ive been told rotella for diesels cause of the zinc but im just double checking
05-25-2010, 11:10 AM
#2
There is no break-in period. To seat the rings, run it with some load on it. A few 3/4 throttle passes right off the bat would suffice. The last thing you want to do is be gentle. Change the oil after the first few miles, then again after 50 or so.
For oil just use conventional. No need to use synthetic since you're going to be changing it soon - save the money.
For oil just use conventional. No need to use synthetic since you're going to be changing it soon - save the money.
05-25-2010, 11:15 AM
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I recently had my lt apart and put all new bearings in as well as honed the walls and put in new rings. I imagine there is a break in period, how long is it and what oil should i use on first start up ive been told rotella for diesels cause of the zinc but im just double checking
05-25-2010, 12:07 PM
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Almost i was rushing and cracked the cam gear. Now i have to find one. Other then that i have everything in order to put it all back together. Im just asking a few questions to make sure theres no more mess ups
05-25-2010, 01:48 PM
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added zinc content for break in is for flat tappet cams not necessary with rollers so any old conventional will do the trick. The same applies to you as with any other engine break in, fire it up and let it idle and get up to operating temp ~20 minutes change the oil, take it out and do some spirited driving in the longer gears to put some load on the motor and get your cylinder pressures up, don't go WOT but keep it to 3/4 throttle on your pulls and don't exceed 4500 rpm for first 200 miles, don't hold the same rpm for longer than 30 seconds for the first 200 miles. At 200 miles change the oil and drive it as you normally would. I changed the oil again at 500 miles then once more at 1,000 before I switched back to synthetic and normal oil change intervals
05-25-2010, 02:59 PM
#7
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You don't want to let it idle when you first start it. You want to keep the RPMs 1500-2000 so that good oiling can commence. Once all fluids are good and everything is secure, get it on the road. Vary the load on accel and decel. Higher RPM is ok - just no WOT blasts for the first little bit. Oh and make sure you have a good tune if you changed a lot of things. The last thing you want is over-fueling washing down your cylinders. It will kill your rings.
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05-25-2010, 07:04 PM
#9
Literally the best break in you could have done, unless you held it at a steady rpm on the highway for a long time.
An engine needs to be LOADED, FAST when it is rebuilt. This creates enough cylinder pressure to force the rings out against the cylinder walls with adequate pressure to seat them. AS said above, the LAST thing you want to do is be easy on it. You will end up with an under performing engine with more blow by than it should have and will lead a shorter life as a result.
Get it up to temp not letting it idle, shut it off and check for leaks, check all fluid levels, make sure coolant is bled. Then start loading the engine. Not abusing it, but driving it like youre going to when it's "broken in".
Up and down through the gears, loading it 3/4 throttle on the way up, and letting it decel all the way down (if manual, harder to do with an auto).
A couple hours of driving this way, change the oil, and drive it normal / to slightly aggressive for 500 miles. Change the oil again and get er dun.
Alternatively you can break it in on the dyno, or the track (road course would be best). Either of these will load the engine enough to do a GOOD break in.
Granny it around for the first 500 miles and you're doing much more damage than good.
An engine needs to be LOADED, FAST when it is rebuilt. This creates enough cylinder pressure to force the rings out against the cylinder walls with adequate pressure to seat them. AS said above, the LAST thing you want to do is be easy on it. You will end up with an under performing engine with more blow by than it should have and will lead a shorter life as a result.
Get it up to temp not letting it idle, shut it off and check for leaks, check all fluid levels, make sure coolant is bled. Then start loading the engine. Not abusing it, but driving it like youre going to when it's "broken in".
Up and down through the gears, loading it 3/4 throttle on the way up, and letting it decel all the way down (if manual, harder to do with an auto).
A couple hours of driving this way, change the oil, and drive it normal / to slightly aggressive for 500 miles. Change the oil again and get er dun.
Alternatively you can break it in on the dyno, or the track (road course would be best). Either of these will load the engine enough to do a GOOD break in.
Granny it around for the first 500 miles and you're doing much more damage than good.
