Solid roller guys only!!!!!!!!
Solid roller guys only!!!!!!!! I might go solid rolller, what would I need to make this happen?
I have a 388 lt1 forged bottom end and using a flat top forged piston built for nitrous. Im also using AFR 210 heads that were also max ported. Lt4 intake and LT headers, bullet, dump. Backed by a th400 trans and a 4.10 gear on 28s.
I will be using a 250 shot minimum and would like to know what the hardcore guys recommend for this setup!
What converter should be used? Im thinking 4000
What cam specs?
anyone with a similar setup to this?
This will be on a stock pcm and im looking to take it all the way to 7000 rpm. SO I need my parts to match, But shifting at 6800 to make it safe
I have a 388 lt1 forged bottom end and using a flat top forged piston built for nitrous. Im also using AFR 210 heads that were also max ported. Lt4 intake and LT headers, bullet, dump. Backed by a th400 trans and a 4.10 gear on 28s.
I will be using a 250 shot minimum and would like to know what the hardcore guys recommend for this setup!
What converter should be used? Im thinking 4000
What cam specs?
anyone with a similar setup to this?
This will be on a stock pcm and im looking to take it all the way to 7000 rpm. SO I need my parts to match, But shifting at 6800 to make it safe
250 shot it a lot of nitrous. You will first need to get a good set of lifters (~$600-700), good pushrods ($100), cam ($300). Being limited by 7000rpms you will need to change the gears to 3.70 and it won't make a huge diffference from a hyd roller at that rpm limit (you will only be gaining ~400rpms at most--not worth the effort unless you go to a fast setup to get up to ~7400-7500rpms). I would get a converter custom for your setup (ie-let the company make the converter stall at what they think it needs). Cam specs will depend on valvle train and what maintenance requirements you have...talk to an expert like Lloyd Elliot or AI, etc and tell them what you want out of the car. There is so much knowledge out there it is best to let the experts pic the parts to make you go fast.
What are your goals for the car? Time expectations? Streetability expectations?
Matt
What are your goals for the car? Time expectations? Streetability expectations?
Matt
well i can tell you I've been running an AI specd solid roller in my car for two years now with no issues at all.....it runs and street drives great.......heres my valve train
PSI Endurance Spring 1200 Series
Xcyeledyne Titanium 10* Retainer and Lock
CP Products 3/8" 1 Piece Pushrods
Morel HIPPO Lightweight Solid Roller Lifters
AI Custom Spec'd Solid Roller Billet Core Cam
Jesel 1.6 Shaft Mount Rockers
This setup has proved very very very durable in my car as well as others. I shift at nearly 8000rpm if not higher sometimes and have had great luck so far. Over 170 passes on the motor and 2000 miles of street use. As for your case your going to have to be easy on rpm because of your stock PCM. I read that other thread you posted that went off the deep end sorry to see that bud lol.......honestly in your case espically with tall that spray id look into an aftermarket computer suchh as the FAST XFI....the xfi was some of the best money i've eva spent....tuning is great!!!
PSI Endurance Spring 1200 Series
Xcyeledyne Titanium 10* Retainer and Lock
CP Products 3/8" 1 Piece Pushrods
Morel HIPPO Lightweight Solid Roller Lifters
AI Custom Spec'd Solid Roller Billet Core Cam
Jesel 1.6 Shaft Mount Rockers
This setup has proved very very very durable in my car as well as others. I shift at nearly 8000rpm if not higher sometimes and have had great luck so far. Over 170 passes on the motor and 2000 miles of street use. As for your case your going to have to be easy on rpm because of your stock PCM. I read that other thread you posted that went off the deep end sorry to see that bud lol.......honestly in your case espically with tall that spray id look into an aftermarket computer suchh as the FAST XFI....the xfi was some of the best money i've eva spent....tuning is great!!!
If I had the $ I would invest into a fast but I dont 
The main thing is that I already have the afr210s with the stock solid roller springs good to 750 lift and I have another set that are good to 700 lift. So on springs I should be good. Im looking into getting a shaft mount set that AFR has designed for their head setup. ANyone ever use it or know if it works?
As for the cam I was told to go with 251/259 .664/.664 109 LSA But thats for a 7k rpm shift point and my car wont go that high without problems
The main thing is that I already have the afr210s with the stock solid roller springs good to 750 lift and I have another set that are good to 700 lift. So on springs I should be good. Im looking into getting a shaft mount set that AFR has designed for their head setup. ANyone ever use it or know if it works?
As for the cam I was told to go with 251/259 .664/.664 109 LSA But thats for a 7k rpm shift point and my car wont go that high without problems
If I had the $ I would invest into a fast but I dont
The main thing is that I already have the afr210s with the stock solid roller springs good to 750 lift and I have another set that are good to 700 lift. So on springs I should be good. Im looking into getting a shaft mount set that AFR has designed for their head setup. ANyone ever use it or know if it works?
As for the cam I was told to go with 251/259 .664/.664 109 LSA But thats for a 7k rpm shift point and my car wont go that high without problems
The main thing is that I already have the afr210s with the stock solid roller springs good to 750 lift and I have another set that are good to 700 lift. So on springs I should be good. Im looking into getting a shaft mount set that AFR has designed for their head setup. ANyone ever use it or know if it works?
As for the cam I was told to go with 251/259 .664/.664 109 LSA But thats for a 7k rpm shift point and my car wont go that high without problems
well youve got a funny scenario here.......if you take lsa away from it your going to gain overlap and just blow the nitrous out the exhaust.......if we add lsa it going to try to rev more.............as for the duration the more you add the higher its going to try to rev........personally i would go a shorter duration with a higher lsa and take advantage of the nitrous......give it a good split to get the air out on the exhaust side.....you dont need a ton of duration espically with a good set of heads..........keep that duration down a bit and you'll keep ur 7000rpm limit.......if u werent sprayed id tell u longer duration and a low lsa but thats not the case here..............idk maybe a 240/248 on a 110LSA or so.......again im no nitrous expert im just telling you from what ive heard in the past and what i know about NA motors.......
Trending Topics
im running afr 210 lt1 1101's and im using a t&d shaft rockers for that head they are 900 in summit or jegs and if you want to go with a rocker use comp ultra mags with a good girdle like afr or comp so on not ebay cheap aluminum if your going solid roller and doing any street driving do the shaft mounts t&d or jesels you will be thankful in the long run if you never ran solid before you have to adjust alot unless you go shaft mounted all said and done its only a few hundred more well worth it and what ever you do make sure your springs are rated to the right seat pressure and lift and quality stuff and yes lifters and pushrods im running the endure-x comps and they work great most will go even better and do a real moral solid lifter good luck
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Topdon ONE vs. Artidiag 800 BT2: Which is the Diagnostic Tablet For You?
Pouria Savadkouei
Gas Monkey Built a 6-Wheel Ferrari Testarossa With a Corvette LT4 Engine
Verdad Gallardo
7 Most Reliable High-Performance Engines GM Has Ever Built
Verdad Gallardo
Amazing '71 Camaro Restomod Is Modern Muscle Car Under the Skin
Verdad Gallardo
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
In your case I would worry more about having big heads, stock style intake, a 7k rpm limit, and a 250 shot then HR or SR cam.
In all honesty that combo needs to ditch the stock computer. Then you can get a healthy solid roller, spin it to where it wants to be spun, and let those heads breathe.
Keeping the stock computer will make you have to sacrifice somewhere else...like cam and gearing.
In all honesty that combo needs to ditch the stock computer. Then you can get a healthy solid roller, spin it to where it wants to be spun, and let those heads breathe.
Keeping the stock computer will make you have to sacrifice somewhere else...like cam and gearing.
In your case I would worry more about having big heads, stock style intake, a 7k rpm limit, and a 250 shot then HR or SR cam.
In all honesty that combo needs to ditch the stock computer. Then you can get a healthy solid roller, spin it to where it wants to be spun, and let those heads breathe.
Keeping the stock computer will make you have to sacrifice somewhere else...like cam and gearing.
In all honesty that combo needs to ditch the stock computer. Then you can get a healthy solid roller, spin it to where it wants to be spun, and let those heads breathe.
Keeping the stock computer will make you have to sacrifice somewhere else...like cam and gearing.
its a 96 but the crank sensor has been deleted to due me running a double roller chain.
Your RPM is limited to 7200. Not 7000. I shift mine at 7000. My cam is slightly smaller with a 112lsa using 4.56 gears and 27X15" QTP's which haven't been track tested through the 1/4mi as of yet. N/A you should be fine with the stock PCM if you keep the cam mild. Whatever you do, don't skimp out on the valvetrain and lifters.
I want to keep my stock pcm for sure and my heads. As for everything else this is all I need to know. The cam for me would be 251/259 .664/.664 109 LSA for a 7k rpm shift point. SO that would be great. I would use a 3.73-4.10 gear on a 28" tire. Those are the specs from LE himself and what he told me would work great with my setup and on spray.
How much power can be expected from what my components are?
How much power can be expected from what my components are?
You could always consider the EFI Connection 24x LS1 PCM setup. It can be done for around $900 if you rework your existing harness.
I ran a few solid roller setups for years.....long before the more cost effective LS1 PCM swap solution. I ran on the stock 95 PCM setup and was limited to 7000rpms. The OBD2 setups are good for 7200rpms as SS RRR mentioned. If I took my car over 7000rpms, the engine would completely shut off right then and there.
I found that my SR engines ran best on an open loop tune. The knock sensor needs to be turned off....at least on my setups it did.
I ran a few solid roller setups for years.....long before the more cost effective LS1 PCM swap solution. I ran on the stock 95 PCM setup and was limited to 7000rpms. The OBD2 setups are good for 7200rpms as SS RRR mentioned. If I took my car over 7000rpms, the engine would completely shut off right then and there.
I found that my SR engines ran best on an open loop tune. The knock sensor needs to be turned off....at least on my setups it did.
What lifters to go with?
what pushrods to go with, size, brand?
Springs I have are good for 700 lift, so thats handled
Since I have Afr heads, I will just use their stud girdle
Cam I can get from LE himself.
what pushrods to go with, size, brand?
Springs I have are good for 700 lift, so thats handled
Since I have Afr heads, I will just use their stud girdle
Cam I can get from LE himself.
Lifters and springs are the two most important components in a SR setup in my opinion, and they must be matched accordingly. I learned the hard way back in 2003 what happens when you don't pay for the good/right lifters. Of course, there were only a handful of people running SR LT1's then, so there was alot of trial and error. Addtionally, "street" solid rollers were still quite rare.
It's hard to swallow the price tag, but go with the ISKY RedZone's or Crower HIPPO (High pressure pin oiling). In the end, they are cheaper than a motor rebuild
As for springs, there are a few different options. I would run the spring that the cam manufacturer recommends. However, I've used the Comp 943 Pacalloy's on all of 3 of the SR motors I've had and they worked great.
Pushrods....this is the last component you will purchase. You need to assemble the engine and measure the exact length. It is VITAL that you have correct valvetrain geometry. This measurement needs to be precise since you don't have the leeway like you do with a hydraulic roller setup.
It's hard to swallow the price tag, but go with the ISKY RedZone's or Crower HIPPO (High pressure pin oiling). In the end, they are cheaper than a motor rebuild
As for springs, there are a few different options. I would run the spring that the cam manufacturer recommends. However, I've used the Comp 943 Pacalloy's on all of 3 of the SR motors I've had and they worked great.
Pushrods....this is the last component you will purchase. You need to assemble the engine and measure the exact length. It is VITAL that you have correct valvetrain geometry. This measurement needs to be precise since you don't have the leeway like you do with a hydraulic roller setup.