383 Build
11-09-2010, 08:25 AM
#1
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383 Build Where and what are you guys using for your builds? I do want forged everything as well. I will be running a 150 nitrous plate kit. Also have le3 heads and intake coming. Going to have lloyd elliott do a custom cam. Waiting to hear back from him.
11-09-2010, 11:23 PM
#6
11-11-2010, 02:57 PM
#7
I'm running Callies Compstar crank and 6" H-beam rods. Each are 4340 forged steel. The rods came with ARP 2000 screws. Pistons are SRP -16cc inverted dome 4032 aluminum alloy (it says mine are suitable for "mild" nitrous and boost applications - although according to SRP they said they have guys pushing over 800hp with these pistons without any problems). With my 11:1 compression they said I could easily spray 100-150hp shot of nitro. Anything more than that however (compression or N2O) you'd probably want to look at their JE pistons which are a different alloy.
My entire kit came from Callies (including the pistons) at a very good price. Balanced and stroker clearanced I think it ended up costing me LESS than the equivalent kit Eagle was quoting me (with their rods being I beams).
The Compstar line of parts are all off shore (China I think) forgings that are brought back to Callies in the US where they are finished off. I was a bit worried about these budget parts at first but they are in fact really nice pieces. As far as my builder was concerned he said it was all overkill and really good looking parts (he had originally scoped out the Eagle kit for me).
My block was a new-er F-body block from Texas that was bored for the first time (.030), square decked, honed, etc and machined with billet 4 bolt splayed main caps. Am running ARP main studs and head studs.
Cloyes true roller double roller timing chain, electric water pump conversion, new billet MSD opti, etc.
My entire kit came from Callies (including the pistons) at a very good price. Balanced and stroker clearanced I think it ended up costing me LESS than the equivalent kit Eagle was quoting me (with their rods being I beams).
The Compstar line of parts are all off shore (China I think) forgings that are brought back to Callies in the US where they are finished off. I was a bit worried about these budget parts at first but they are in fact really nice pieces. As far as my builder was concerned he said it was all overkill and really good looking parts (he had originally scoped out the Eagle kit for me).
My block was a new-er F-body block from Texas that was bored for the first time (.030), square decked, honed, etc and machined with billet 4 bolt splayed main caps. Am running ARP main studs and head studs.
Cloyes true roller double roller timing chain, electric water pump conversion, new billet MSD opti, etc.
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11-11-2010, 03:28 PM
#8
im the brother of that anvil to small blocks above lol
Callies Magnum Crank
Oliver Billet Rods
SRP Proseries 2618 Forged Side Relief Pistons
Howards Billet Steel Main Caps wit ARP Pro Series Studs
but on a realastic note for that setup your talking about id look into either an ohio forged or a scat forged crank or IMO the best bang for the buck in the callies compstar kits....Compstar Crank, Compstar HBeam rods and Mahle Pistons
Callies Magnum Crank
Oliver Billet Rods
SRP Proseries 2618 Forged Side Relief Pistons
Howards Billet Steel Main Caps wit ARP Pro Series Studs
but on a realastic note for that setup your talking about id look into either an ohio forged or a scat forged crank or IMO the best bang for the buck in the callies compstar kits....Compstar Crank, Compstar HBeam rods and Mahle Pistons
11-12-2010, 09:19 AM
#9
Hey wanted to ask ABA383 and quik95lt1 what kind of HP you guys are pushing? Quick95 I can judge from your 1/4 mile times that you've got to be upwards of 600 at the flywheel...
When I was looking into my rotating assembly my wish list (if I had the money to blow) was a Callies Racemaster crank, Oliver billet rods, and some crazy *** pistons I can't even recall. I think the racemaster crank costed more than the entire assembly I ended up buying!
But as you pointed out quick95, for the application Choppers is doing - myself included as well as probably 80% of other builds - a forged eagle kit or callies etc would be more than sufficient. That why I didn't feel bad not going with a dragonslayer or racemaster. If I remember correctly the only real benefit I would have seen with either of those cranks is less weight.
When I was looking into my rotating assembly my wish list (if I had the money to blow) was a Callies Racemaster crank, Oliver billet rods, and some crazy *** pistons I can't even recall. I think the racemaster crank costed more than the entire assembly I ended up buying!
But as you pointed out quick95, for the application Choppers is doing - myself included as well as probably 80% of other builds - a forged eagle kit or callies etc would be more than sufficient. That why I didn't feel bad not going with a dragonslayer or racemaster. If I remember correctly the only real benefit I would have seen with either of those cranks is less weight.
11-12-2010, 09:26 AM
#10
Hey wanted to ask ABA383 and quik95lt1 what kind of HP you guys are pushing? Quick95 I can judge from your 1/4 mile times that you've got to be upwards of 600 at the flywheel...
When I was looking into my rotating assembly my wish list (if I had the money to blow) was a Callies Racemaster crank, Oliver billet rods, and some crazy *** pistons I can't even recall. I think the racemaster crank costed more than the entire assembly I ended up buying!
But as you pointed out quick95, for the application Choppers is doing - myself included as well as probably 80% of other builds - a forged eagle kit or callies etc would be more than sufficient. That why I didn't feel bad not going with a dragonslayer or racemaster. If I remember correctly the only real benefit I would have seen with either of those cranks is less weight.
When I was looking into my rotating assembly my wish list (if I had the money to blow) was a Callies Racemaster crank, Oliver billet rods, and some crazy *** pistons I can't even recall. I think the racemaster crank costed more than the entire assembly I ended up buying!
But as you pointed out quick95, for the application Choppers is doing - myself included as well as probably 80% of other builds - a forged eagle kit or callies etc would be more than sufficient. That why I didn't feel bad not going with a dragonslayer or racemaster. If I remember correctly the only real benefit I would have seen with either of those cranks is less weight.
11-12-2010, 12:31 PM
#11
Hey wanted to ask ABA383 and quik95lt1 what kind of HP you guys are pushing? Quick95 I can judge from your 1/4 mile times that you've got to be upwards of 600 at the flywheel...
When I was looking into my rotating assembly my wish list (if I had the money to blow) was a Callies Racemaster crank, Oliver billet rods, and some crazy *** pistons I can't even recall. I think the racemaster crank costed more than the entire assembly I ended up buying!
But as you pointed out quick95, for the application Choppers is doing - myself included as well as probably 80% of other builds - a forged eagle kit or callies etc would be more than sufficient. That why I didn't feel bad not going with a dragonslayer or racemaster. If I remember correctly the only real benefit I would have seen with either of those cranks is less weight.
When I was looking into my rotating assembly my wish list (if I had the money to blow) was a Callies Racemaster crank, Oliver billet rods, and some crazy *** pistons I can't even recall. I think the racemaster crank costed more than the entire assembly I ended up buying!
But as you pointed out quick95, for the application Choppers is doing - myself included as well as probably 80% of other builds - a forged eagle kit or callies etc would be more than sufficient. That why I didn't feel bad not going with a dragonslayer or racemaster. If I remember correctly the only real benefit I would have seen with either of those cranks is less weight.
--Alan
11-12-2010, 02:54 PM
#12
Low 11's is a great time there Alan, and like the 120+ mph strap speed. I have no idea what my current setup will dyno and/or do at the track. At the end of the day I guess its the times that matter most.
I agree its good to overbuild to some extent now - or at least give yourself the flexibility. Some day down the road, maybe when my baby son is older and I am rich/retired (ya right! ha), I'll tear down my motor and build up a crazy solid roller that needs to be towed to the track. in such case I fully plan to use my existing block, crank & rods, and cylinder heads. I'd be forced to replace pistons due to my limited piston to valve clearance (I'd need custom pistosn for bigger cam) then rebalance the whole thing.
The best thing my engine builder got me to admit was that I planned to beat the snot out of my new engine. He said good - so we're going to build a motor that will be able to last you
I agree its good to overbuild to some extent now - or at least give yourself the flexibility. Some day down the road, maybe when my baby son is older and I am rich/retired (ya right! ha), I'll tear down my motor and build up a crazy solid roller that needs to be towed to the track. in such case I fully plan to use my existing block, crank & rods, and cylinder heads. I'd be forced to replace pistons due to my limited piston to valve clearance (I'd need custom pistosn for bigger cam) then rebalance the whole thing.
The best thing my engine builder got me to admit was that I planned to beat the snot out of my new engine. He said good - so we're going to build a motor that will be able to last you
