pass side motor mount a pain
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 333
Likes: 1
From: Arkansas
pass side motor mount a pain I've pulled 2.8's, 4.3's, 2.5's, 305's, 350's hell I've had em all out. this lt1 pass side mount is kickin my a**. I'm putting some 1 7/8's ebay headers and had to lift the motor I remember it giving me hell a while back but any tips? I can get the driver lined up easy I've jacked pulled done it all just can't get it to sit down on the motor mount. 
try removing mount from k-member ,bolt it back to clamshell mount THEN sit engine back into place loosely, get 4 bolts to k-member started by finger and tighten mount back on to k-member.....
It worked best for me when I bolted to the frame then moved the entire assembly to line up with the block.
Start all three before tightening any one of them down.
FWIW, rubber gives a lot more than poly.
Start all three before tightening any one of them down.
FWIW, rubber gives a lot more than poly.
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 333
Likes: 1
From: Arkansas
I'll try those options next, the pass side of my engine has twisted to the 12:15 or 12:30 position. maybee i was just wore out last night from the 1 7/8 long tubes, these really were a pita to get in.
The headers are worth every ******* cent less than the name brand ones..
i have the same ones , been a DD for OVER a year now,no cracks no leaks , went in easy had to be dinged in a few spots and and for that i'm up $300 STILL .
DUDE, hes having trouble lining the damn motor mount into the mount stand this isnt a problem with the ******* headers,just some lack of experience !
The headers are worth every ******* cent less than the name brand ones..
i have the same ones , been a DD for OVER a year now,no cracks no leaks , went in easy had to be dinged in a few spots and and for that i'm up $300 STILL .
The headers are worth every ******* cent less than the name brand ones..
i have the same ones , been a DD for OVER a year now,no cracks no leaks , went in easy had to be dinged in a few spots and and for that i'm up $300 STILL .
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He mad.
I'm just saying I see threads like this all the time where people are asking how to clearance for e-bay headers by either grinding on the k-member or banging/denting primaries to clear the steering shaft or k-member...
Not worth it IMO.
I'm just saying I see threads like this all the time where people are asking how to clearance for e-bay headers by either grinding on the k-member or banging/denting primaries to clear the steering shaft or k-member...
Not worth it IMO.
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Future reference for those inquiring about e-bay headers who want a less painful install w/out the sacrifice of denting primaries or grinding on the chassis to make them fit?
I also wonder the quality of material used and their longevity? Or does that matter because OMG THEY'RE THREE HUNDRED DOLLARZ! WAT A BARGAINZ!111
I also wonder the quality of material used and their longevity? Or does that matter because OMG THEY'RE THREE HUNDRED DOLLARZ! WAT A BARGAINZ!111
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 333
Likes: 1
From: Arkansas
On a lt1 with the motor mount bolt going from front to back the bolt will not come out all the way... I guess when i lifted the engine to install the header the bolt caught and cocked the motor mount. got it in but now fighting the ebay y-pipe, this is going to be another jerk pull cut and bend job...
On a lt1 with the motor mount bolt going from front to back the bolt will not come out all the way... I guess when i lifted the engine to install the header the bolt caught and cocked the motor mount. got it in but now fighting the ebay y-pipe, this is going to be another jerk pull cut and bend job...
Im going through this as well, i was hoping that i wouldnt have to do motor mounts with my ebay long tube install....My steering linkage needs half an inch of room to even think about fitting lol. Needless to say energy suspension motor mounts have been purchased, pass side was in stock so i just went through that side. I had them loose from the oil pan gasket i just did as well. Had it out in about 15 minutes or so. Drilled the clam shell, put the new motor mount in and went to put it back in the car.
The biggest issue that i ran into was apparently 1 good motor mount, and 1 120k mile worn out stock mount, sit entirely different. I found it easiest with the mount attached to the motor, then get the motor mount on and get the bolt through it....then lower the engine back down and onto the k member. From here nothing lined up quite right.
I ended up jacking on the drivers side of the block to twist the engine the right way. The motor mounts are proving to be a pain, but if you just take a break, sit back...look at it from the top and front of the car you can figure out which way it needs to go alot easier, and then either jack or pry the motor in that direction.
The biggest issue that i ran into was apparently 1 good motor mount, and 1 120k mile worn out stock mount, sit entirely different. I found it easiest with the mount attached to the motor, then get the motor mount on and get the bolt through it....then lower the engine back down and onto the k member. From here nothing lined up quite right.
I ended up jacking on the drivers side of the block to twist the engine the right way. The motor mounts are proving to be a pain, but if you just take a break, sit back...look at it from the top and front of the car you can figure out which way it needs to go alot easier, and then either jack or pry the motor in that direction.
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 333
Likes: 1
From: Arkansas
It was just one of them days for me, a 3 min job to put a bolt in took several hours... all good now, but man I think the guys with the ebay headers have spoke lightly on how much beating you have to do to get them to fit, k-member, steering shaft, frame rail on pass side... these were the 17/8 though.
