iv bin getting the biggest f u from my 93z
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i just put the car on the road friday and i was driving around all day. it was soo nice out and she was runnin strong no problems nothin at all. come night time i was gona go with my friends to where all these ppl meet up to race and right befor we went to go the car just shuts off.... started it back up took it around the block and just starts buckin and dies... i didnt go to the races i just sat and waited for my friend to show up with his scanner. plugged it in and it said it couldnt comunicate with the car. its a $4000 snap on scanner so its not the scanner ****** up. started it up ad drove to my gf house with no problems. woke up, drove to my buds shop to give him a hand and no problems there. got food at deli tryd going to car quest to get a light socket for my blinker and it shuts off again. idk what it could be. idle air control? fuel pump? alternater? idk.... what do u guys think. thanks in advance!
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That scanner may only be able to communicate later OBD vehicles. To get codes (if you even have any that relate to the problem) all you have to do is get a wire to jump from one terminal to another on your data port. Not sure which ones. Shoebox may have something on his page- www.shbox.com
The next thing to check is your fuel pressure which can be easily done by getting a fuel pressure gauge from any parts store and inserting it on the Schraeder valve on the back of the fuel rail. Not sure if '93 fuel pressure differentiates from later models if at all. Do this with the engine running and w/out the vacuum line on the fuel pressure regulator. If that is good then the next thing to suspect it the coil and ignition control module. Again, I believe shoebox has ways to test them on his page. Good luck.
The next thing to check is your fuel pressure which can be easily done by getting a fuel pressure gauge from any parts store and inserting it on the Schraeder valve on the back of the fuel rail. Not sure if '93 fuel pressure differentiates from later models if at all. Do this with the engine running and w/out the vacuum line on the fuel pressure regulator. If that is good then the next thing to suspect it the coil and ignition control module. Again, I believe shoebox has ways to test them on his page. Good luck.
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I beleave its 43.5 psi I'm looking for but it has 96 lt1 injecters so idk if itl be diff. It has a 96 tb also and the right plug was spliced into the harness. Not the correct way but its connected. (I didn't do that) it has a new opti in it with msd wires and my waster pump isn't leaking on it so that should be ok...I hope lol. I sat there staring it the harness and saw that it sitting the egr valve I think its called? In the back of the motor. Ithe plastic was melted but the wires we're ok except for 2. But they weren't bad and weren't touching each other. I know that with the tb and injecters it needs a tune but I herd u can't tune a 93 computer. If I get a 94-95 computer would I need a new harness or could I use my 93 and fix the 2 wires and the idle air control wires? Would I need anything else?
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I beleave its 43.5 psi I'm looking for but it has 96 lt1 injecters so idk if itl be diff. It has a 96 tb also and the right plug was spliced into the harness. Not the correct way but its connected. (I didn't do that) it has a new opti in it with msd wires and my waster pump isn't leaking on it so that should be ok...I hope lol. I sat there staring it the harness and saw that it sitting the egr valve I think its called? In the back of the motor. Ithe plastic was melted but the wires we're ok except for 2. But they weren't bad and weren't touching each other. I know that with the tb and injecters it needs a tune but I herd u can't tune a 93 computer. If I get a 94-95 computer would I need a new harness or could I use my 93 and fix the 2 wires and the idle air control wires? Would I need anything else?
There are two sensors plugged into the throttle body, the TPS and the IAC. Which wiring is hacked up? It sounds like you have a hell of a mess to figure out which unfortunately none of us can accurately help with.
Converting to 94+ PCM isn't too hard. There's a few threads on it so try a search.
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You can tune a 93 LT1, The difference is that we have a removable chip in our ECM compared to the 94-97 style which does not have a removable chip. You would need a mail order tune such as pcmforless.com for your car or something similar. I wouldnt go through the hassle of converting to the 94-97 style personally.
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You can tune a 93 LT1, The difference is that we have a removable chip in our ECM compared to the 94-97 style which does not have a removable chip. You would need a mail order tune such as pcmforless.com for your car or something similar. I wouldnt go through the hassle of converting to the 94-97 style personally.
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Wires to the iac are hacked. I'm gona look into the removable chip thing but I know a guy who buys f bodys and part em out and makes good money doing it lol. He can easly hook me up wit a ecm and harness. I can get the 93 tb and iac plug but I don't wana mess with that any more than it already is.
Also. My fuel pump is pretty loud when I turn the car to accessory. I hear it clearly inside the car. Could that mean its going bad?
Also. My fuel pump is pretty loud when I turn the car to accessory. I hear it clearly inside the car. Could that mean its going bad?
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#10
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I agree that MAF is easier to tune for sure, I just don't feel the need to do it to my car at the moment, I got other **** to worry about haha.
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If your having fuel issues, your pump might be getting hot and shutting down too, especially if your fuel level is very low. I use to have that problem till I was able to get a new pump for my old TA. Jumping the harness at the aldl is a good way to get your codes, but if you can get some one with a TEch 2 that should give you a better idea on things to truely say your computer is junk. That harness issue kinda sounds a lil scketchy too. I would say that is a good enough reason to make the switchif you have parts easy to grab.
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I got home and drove to pick up my girlfriend and it didn't give me any problems. It idled at like 2k when I started it and I let it run like that for like 30 seconds. Started it again and it was going between a grand and 1500. We went back to my house and I stuck a paper clip in it and I got:
15- coolant sensor circuit. (Low temp indicated)
21- TPS circuit. (Signal voltage high) I'm guessing that would be the reason its idling high.
36- distributor ignition system
42- ignition control circuit
The car doesn't act up when I drive slow and steady and really really baby it it doesn't act up but when I get on it a lil bit itl buck and stall no matter how I drive it, grandma or wheelman it don't wana go lol. I haven't gotin a chance to get my hands on a fuel pressure gauge so that's gota wait. I do have a waldro 255lph pump brand new somewhere in my room.
15- coolant sensor circuit. (Low temp indicated)
21- TPS circuit. (Signal voltage high) I'm guessing that would be the reason its idling high.
36- distributor ignition system
42- ignition control circuit
The car doesn't act up when I drive slow and steady and really really baby it it doesn't act up but when I get on it a lil bit itl buck and stall no matter how I drive it, grandma or wheelman it don't wana go lol. I haven't gotin a chance to get my hands on a fuel pressure gauge so that's gota wait. I do have a waldro 255lph pump brand new somewhere in my room.
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UPDATE!
i put a new coil and icm in last night and i drove really really well for like 15 min and then it died. me and my girlfriend pushed it over a mile home. i pushed the valve on the fuel rails with my finger and gas shot out. any thoughts?
i put a new coil and icm in last night and i drove really really well for like 15 min and then it died. me and my girlfriend pushed it over a mile home. i pushed the valve on the fuel rails with my finger and gas shot out. any thoughts?