Sigh more 383 problems. Fall down go boom
#42
It's not so uncommon for a SBC to have a little valve train clatter at startup until the oil works it's way through the pushrods. Some have it-some don't. The builders explanation of "air in the system" is a pretty good answer and may be right on the money. I think you guys are prematurely bashing the builder. Roxy does her homework and wouldn't have given him the work if he was questionable, had no recommendations or a bad reputation.
(re: quik95LT1's photo) This is an engine with factory-style four bolt mains, IOW, all four bolts are straight. When using splayed outer bolt main caps, they may obstruct the dipstick tube. Roxy, which main bolt style do you have?
I'm leaning towards this being a fuel issue.
(re: quik95LT1's photo) This is an engine with factory-style four bolt mains, IOW, all four bolts are straight. When using splayed outer bolt main caps, they may obstruct the dipstick tube. Roxy, which main bolt style do you have?
I'm leaning towards this being a fuel issue.
#44
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I talked to the builder today. He said there was oil pressure when he cranked it but NO fuel pressure at all. My fuel pump is stock/OEM, but my engine is just small heads (unported trickflow) and small blower cam so it should have been sufficient. I also went through this BS when I had a misfire (checked fuel pressure... it was 43 psi but now builder says there is NONE).
I do have Lonnie's dual fuel pump kit but I was waiting to install it until I got it up and running reliably.
So here's my new theory: fuel pump died which caused lack of top end and the bang (detonation) and also shut the car off.
I do have Lonnie's dual fuel pump kit but I was waiting to install it until I got it up and running reliably.
So here's my new theory: fuel pump died which caused lack of top end and the bang (detonation) and also shut the car off.
where are you located???
Yep ........Thanks!!!!
agreed......Splayed caps may actually give more room with the bolts angled in like that.....
yea seems odd........
#45
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#46
Ok some updates/comments:
Regarding the dipstick:
Part of it may be the windage tray. I believe the caps are pro-grams but they may be for an older SBC. The machinist is apparently a grumpy old **** who only does things one way.
Regarding fuel/oil pressure:
Ok the fuel pressure turned out to be a VATS problem. This car has only given me a VATS problem 3 times in the 10 years I've owned it, two of those times are when the builder had the car or was over at my house.
It has fuel pressure. It has oil pressure. The problem is apparently that the McLeod master cylinder wasn't adjusted correctly. I had it on right myself but then it started leaking so I had the shop that did my alignment fix the leak (kicking myself for not following the "if you want something done right"). Well apparently the alignment guy took the whole thing apart and didn't adjust it correctly. I'm still trying to understand how this caused the problem exactly - but I will make the builder go for a ride with me after he "fixes" it. Maybe it will go
I don't think he's trying to jerk me around. He is one of the reputable local builders and the reason I went with him is he built my friend's 355. He says the engine itself is idling/running/revving fine.
Regarding the dipstick:
Part of it may be the windage tray. I believe the caps are pro-grams but they may be for an older SBC. The machinist is apparently a grumpy old **** who only does things one way.
Regarding fuel/oil pressure:
Ok the fuel pressure turned out to be a VATS problem. This car has only given me a VATS problem 3 times in the 10 years I've owned it, two of those times are when the builder had the car or was over at my house.
It has fuel pressure. It has oil pressure. The problem is apparently that the McLeod master cylinder wasn't adjusted correctly. I had it on right myself but then it started leaking so I had the shop that did my alignment fix the leak (kicking myself for not following the "if you want something done right"). Well apparently the alignment guy took the whole thing apart and didn't adjust it correctly. I'm still trying to understand how this caused the problem exactly - but I will make the builder go for a ride with me after he "fixes" it. Maybe it will go
I don't think he's trying to jerk me around. He is one of the reputable local builders and the reason I went with him is he built my friend's 355. He says the engine itself is idling/running/revving fine.
#47
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Ok some updates/comments:
Regarding the dipstick:
Part of it may be the windage tray. I believe the caps are pro-grams but they may be for an older SBC. The machinist is apparently a grumpy old **** who only does things one way.
Regarding fuel/oil pressure:
Ok the fuel pressure turned out to be a VATS problem. This car has only given me a VATS problem 3 times in the 10 years I've owned it, two of those times are when the builder had the car or was over at my house.
It has fuel pressure. It has oil pressure. The problem is apparently that the McLeod master cylinder wasn't adjusted correctly. I had it on right myself but then it started leaking so I had the shop that did my alignment fix the leak (kicking myself for not following the "if you want something done right"). Well apparently the alignment guy took the whole thing apart and didn't adjust it correctly. I'm still trying to understand how this caused the problem exactly - but I will make the builder go for a ride with me after he "fixes" it. Maybe it will go
I don't think he's trying to jerk me around. He is one of the reputable local builders and the reason I went with him is he built my friend's 355. He says the engine itself is idling/running/revving fine.
Regarding the dipstick:
Part of it may be the windage tray. I believe the caps are pro-grams but they may be for an older SBC. The machinist is apparently a grumpy old **** who only does things one way.
Regarding fuel/oil pressure:
Ok the fuel pressure turned out to be a VATS problem. This car has only given me a VATS problem 3 times in the 10 years I've owned it, two of those times are when the builder had the car or was over at my house.
It has fuel pressure. It has oil pressure. The problem is apparently that the McLeod master cylinder wasn't adjusted correctly. I had it on right myself but then it started leaking so I had the shop that did my alignment fix the leak (kicking myself for not following the "if you want something done right"). Well apparently the alignment guy took the whole thing apart and didn't adjust it correctly. I'm still trying to understand how this caused the problem exactly - but I will make the builder go for a ride with me after he "fixes" it. Maybe it will go
I don't think he's trying to jerk me around. He is one of the reputable local builders and the reason I went with him is he built my friend's 355. He says the engine itself is idling/running/revving fine.
#48
And yeah he said my pressure plate or fork might be toast but since they were able to drive it up on the rack he thinks its probably ok.
#49
Rosy, this isn't a knock at you. Just an observation. Isn't it funny how one persons description of events invokes such a response. Yet that description is just ever so different from the sounds. Like, the motor went bang, vs boom. Lol.
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Well I had it towed it back to the builder for now... but no it wasn't leaking any fluid. I didn't check the oil after the kaboom (no dipstick) and had it towed back to the builder. I had to walk 2 miles home barefoot (dumb, I know, I should have kept my cell with me).
And all the ignition/fuel components are good.
And all the ignition/fuel components are good.
I sure hope everything is alright with your engine. Clutch issues can really give you alot of grief.
Last edited by 1961ba427; 05-24-2011 at 04:12 PM.
#52
Haha. I agree. But there's a big difference between "I was at 4k rpms and it went boom and I lost oil pressure " vs. " I was at 4k rpms and it went boom, then it idled down to 1500 rpms and stayed between there and 2k for 10-15 seconds and shut off." First indicates structural destruction of key components. The second indicates a problem exists that wont let your engine run properly.
#54
Haha. I agree. But there's a big difference between "I was at 4k rpms and it went boom and I lost oil pressure " vs. " I was at 4k rpms and it went boom, then it idled down to 1500 rpms and stayed between there and 2k for 10-15 seconds and shut off." First indicates structural destruction of key components. The second indicates a problem exists that wont let your engine run properly.
Last edited by Z28Roxy; 05-30-2011 at 09:29 PM.
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I'm happy for you that you figured this out. Even more happy that it turned out to be something simple and inexpensive.
I had a wierd ignition problem with the solid roller bbc in my 61 a few years back that drove me nuts for awhile. I never quite figured out what was going on, but a distributor ended up fixing it....despite the fact that the same other distributors (4 before the problem was resolved) work fine in other engines I have.
I had a wierd ignition problem with the solid roller bbc in my 61 a few years back that drove me nuts for awhile. I never quite figured out what was going on, but a distributor ended up fixing it....despite the fact that the same other distributors (4 before the problem was resolved) work fine in other engines I have.