Anyone set up a B&M Pro Ratchet b4??
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Anyone set up a B&M Pro Ratchet b4??
Pretty much done with my Th350 swap except the damn shifter cable is driving me nuts. Seems like its binding somewhere(which i cant see why) or Im not doing something right. Anybody done this and can help me get this working.
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From: SFL
My cable loops around the crossmember and then goes up the well to the shifter. I wish I had a picture to show you. Now, is it going through the gears at all (allowing you to go from park to reverse/neutral etc.)? Which adapter plate do you have on the transmission where the cable hooks up to? There were like three in my pro ratchet kit and it took some figuring out and LOTS of adjusting (via the cable itself) to get it just right.
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I did have it shifting at one point but it seemed like it was harder to shift than it should be. Then I tried adjusting it again and it wont go past N. The bracket on the trans im using kinda looks like an upside down hammer and its in the middle hole marked C.
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This is the bracket you are using correct? Sorry for the crap picture, all I could find on google lol
This one needed a tiny bit to be notched to clear my pan, but it worked the best in respects to adjusting the cable and getting a solid shift.
This one needed a tiny bit to be notched to clear my pan, but it worked the best in respects to adjusting the cable and getting a solid shift.
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Okay gotcha. Hmm, I am actually curious as to what your cable bracket looks like. Regardless of whether it is a cable bracket or the one on the transmission itself, it seems like an adjustment issue. I remember adjusting the cable from both ends (by the trans and by the shifter itself) at least 6 times until I got it right. UNLESS yours truly is kinked somewhere. Is the cable doing any crazy bends?? Wish I could help more but as you can imagine it is tough over the interwebs
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Bought a thinner B&M cable now its shifting like butter.
Just need to hook up all the nitrous wiring and put it back together.
Anyone have a wiring diagram on how to make the back up lights, NSS and speedo work? Figure I can leave the clutch pedal in to start the car for now but I do want to get it all working over the winter when I put in the new motor.
Just need to hook up all the nitrous wiring and put it back together.
Anyone have a wiring diagram on how to make the back up lights, NSS and speedo work? Figure I can leave the clutch pedal in to start the car for now but I do want to get it all working over the winter when I put in the new motor.
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Do you have ABS or is it deleted? That is where I got my Speedo signal from. Just changed the tire size in the tune for whatever size I have up front. It is pretty damn accurate. I have a diagram somewhere here for the backup lights, I'll see if I can find it and post it later.
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http://shbox.com/1/harness_connector_faces.htm
For your year car it looks like it is plug C220 cavity "G"
This is white-ish plug on the passenger side kick panel
I took that wire and ran it down to the driver side ABS sensor (by the wheel). I just cut one of the two wires that go to the sensor and put the VSS signal wire in there. Cannot remember if it mattered which wire to cut or not. I cannot recall. Then just make some adjustments in the tune and you will acquire proper speed reading!
For your year car it looks like it is plug C220 cavity "G"
This is white-ish plug on the passenger side kick panel
I took that wire and ran it down to the driver side ABS sensor (by the wheel). I just cut one of the two wires that go to the sensor and put the VSS signal wire in there. Cannot remember if it mattered which wire to cut or not. I cannot recall. Then just make some adjustments in the tune and you will acquire proper speed reading!
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OOPS. That's what I did lmao. Good call. The way I was talking about basically back-tracked the same wire. Same idea I just said it backwards. Glad to see you got it all figured out man. Sounds like a pretty clean swap!
#19
This thread has the wiring setup:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...questions.html
I used the same bracket pictured above on mine, I had to shave it down to get closer to the pan as well.
I'm curious as to what new cable you used? Mine had issues at first by either going into P and not all the way down to 1st, or going into 1st and not all the way into P. It was a PITA to set up the first time.
So it is straight up to plug into the ABS for the VSS? No tuning or anything? Where exactly are you plugging in to pick up the ABS for the VSS into the hub itself or at the ABS block?
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...questions.html
I used the same bracket pictured above on mine, I had to shave it down to get closer to the pan as well.
I'm curious as to what new cable you used? Mine had issues at first by either going into P and not all the way down to 1st, or going into 1st and not all the way into P. It was a PITA to set up the first time.
So it is straight up to plug into the ABS for the VSS? No tuning or anything? Where exactly are you plugging in to pick up the ABS for the VSS into the hub itself or at the ABS block?
#20
i have a pro ratchet stealth in my car.
you need to pull the pin out of the shifter cable and pull it off the bracket. put both the trans and shifter in 1st gear and verify that the cable slides on easy do the same with second. disconnecting the cable each time then making sure it slide onj freely when both shifted to the next gear. Set it up without checking N as N is actually two clicks because it is a longer throw than 1-3
also make sure all the pins are set up right in the shifer to give you the proper number of speeds etc.
mine is a RMVB with safe neutral my pattern is as follows
all the way forward is park. two ratchets back is N or reverse when TB is applyed. next ratchet 1, 2nd, third then another click for safe neutral.
like i said make sure your adjustment is all setup without using as it isnt the right length throw
you need to pull the pin out of the shifter cable and pull it off the bracket. put both the trans and shifter in 1st gear and verify that the cable slides on easy do the same with second. disconnecting the cable each time then making sure it slide onj freely when both shifted to the next gear. Set it up without checking N as N is actually two clicks because it is a longer throw than 1-3
also make sure all the pins are set up right in the shifer to give you the proper number of speeds etc.
mine is a RMVB with safe neutral my pattern is as follows
all the way forward is park. two ratchets back is N or reverse when TB is applyed. next ratchet 1, 2nd, third then another click for safe neutral.
like i said make sure your adjustment is all setup without using as it isnt the right length throw