looking to replace the 6 point bolts while replacing a blown out gasket on my pacesetter long tube headers. seems like the stage 8 locking bolts are a good way to go.

question is do i get 1" or 3/4" length? i dont want the 1" to bottom out and i dont want to go too short if i dont have to and risk the bolts backing out more easily.

i was hoping someone would know from experience what length to get so i dont have to take one out and measure it.

bottom line is i dont want to buy the wrong length and be out 50 bucks.

 

i use a cheap set of locking ebay ones they work awsome and are really easy to use. after using these i will never buy another set. the half of moon ones suck to clip in. and you want locking bolts so you will never blow them out again. trust me get these you will like them. and i use 3/4 inch ones

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Locking-Head...c9579c&vxp=mtr

 

If you have the space ALWAYS use 1" bolts. Common sense applies here - longer threads = more engagement = less resistance to backing out.

I've never had a 1" bolt back out torquing after the first heat cycle.

 

True true. I tried 3/4 inch bolts and it only felft like a couple threads made it in. I did not feel safe at all using them so I went to 1". I think you'll find that's what most people will tell you to use.

 

After much research on the subject of header bolts, I used a 1" bolt.

 

Depends on what header you are running. If you have 1 3/4" primaries then Stage 8's will cause you nothing but trouble. Best way to go is ARP 3/8" or 5/16" six point header bolts IMO. Depending on the thickness of your flange, you should probably use 1" bolts. I have Hooker LT's, but have been running 3/4" length ARP's for years and they've never backed out.

 

Definitely a 1" bolt.

 

1" stage 8 here also.

 

If you're interested in a locking bolt, check out Percy's Split Locks. They won some engineering awards when they were introduced by Breslin, from whom Percy's subsequently purchased the patent. I've heard that the Stage 8's are a huge PITA.

 

My two cents on locking header bolts.
IMO, at a glance, the Percy split bolts look better. But I found that the internal screws seized up and stripped an then you have to force the bolt out which can lead to thread damage in the holes in the heads. Mine were actually the old Breslin bolts so maybe they dont do that any longer.

With respect to the Stage 8 bolts, they are double hex head which means they can be tightened down with a wrench, socket or Allen wrench. The Allen wrench aspect makes getting more easily into tighter places cause you can taylor the Allen wrench to what you need. Thats the biggest benefit IMO. Also putting the locks on is indeed a bit more PITA but they wont do ill things after the fact like sieze up. But it is nice to have extra locks and e-clips on hand. Based on all of this, I prefer the Stage 8 bolts.

 

A locking bolt completely unnecessary.

 

Ive never used a locking bolt , as stated here 1 inch hex headed ARPs (I like the looks of the stainless ones). Apply anti seize tighten, heatcycle, tighten and then I 99 percent usually have to never touch them again. This is of course with at least a 3/8ths inch header flange.

 

sorry i forgot to mention the flange is 3/8th inch thick, kinda important for this question huh
my thoughts also on the stage 8's,

especially for getting this one in and tightened down, dont know how im gonna get the 6 point bolt out though

 

for those who run 1" how thick is your header flange?

 

I bought a cheap wrench and cut it in half, gets around the headers great.
On a bolt like pictured you start it along with the outside one and tighten it down a ways before you tighten the outside one down.

 

thanks for the tip

 

I honestly don't know how thick the flange is on Kooks. I'm thinking it's 3/8". I would probably use a 1" bolt regardless. I don't think it's going to bottom out in the heads if the flange is thinner, but I guess that's a possibility.

 

A box end wrench won't fit?

 

I just got a set of 1" Stage 8 bolts. Putting locks on was a PITA. Just another note, if you torque your header bolts to the specs in the FSM, which I did, don't use the allen part of the bolt. You'll round it out faster than you can imagine. I learned quickly and ultimately bought a torque adapter and cut a small open ended wrench in half and used that. The bolts are super close to the primaries on my headers and made torquing them nearly unbearable (and the motor was out of the car). Just my 2 cents.

 

what kind of headers, and how thick is the flange?