Originally Posted by Albert96TA

I have read that guys who have done it several times can get it out in about an hour. I know it looks overwelming but its really not that bad since you leave the wiring in tact on the motor and tranny.

Originally Posted by Steven Manson

Dunno what all you want to do.
I really want to fix my car at this time and remove as much as possible then send the PCM and have it tuned to turned the SES light off.

I just redid mine and while I was at it added a cam, changed to LT Headers (GREAT time to do it).
The cam is on my list in the future along with some head work.

I blocked my EGR on the rear (made my own plates) and yanked out my air pump
Yes I want to remove that but also do not want to compromise the MPG (EGR), all the smog crap gone, as much of the vacuum lines and evep system as I can without affecting the performance.

and A/C Unit (I'm a convertible so who needs it LOL).
I live in Florida so that has to stay, lol, and the wife and daughter will not ride with me with no AC

Also went ahead and did Timing Chain and removed all the smog crap. Also added 1.6 RR at this time too. Come ot think of it, I think I replaced every damn thing but the Power Steering and Alternator LOL.
Sounds like what I am probally going to end up doing

Originally Posted by Steven Manson

Just remember when you do the cam later you'll have to remove the intake AGAIN so just threw that out there.....

I am aware of that, and thats another reason I want to remove all the clutter.
Removing the EGR doesn't really impact performance. MPG have no clue yet. Waiting for my Y Pipe to arrive so I can drive without the neighbors on the OTHER end of town hearing me .

Keep me posted on that.

Well IF you plan on ever going bigger cam, you'll get the most out of them with 1.6/1.7 roller rockers which do require heavier springs. I had mine replaced when I had the heads in the Machine Shop to be checked out (yea blew a head gasket too). They tore them down to clean them so was freebie to put the heavier springs on that I had ordered.

Good advice, thanks.

Pics and videos of the various stages of repair if interested:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/locruid...7631600833745/
Looks like fun, lol

Originally Posted by Albert96TA

Questions that I have:
Is the intake port matching worth it? $200.00
Do I need larger injectors? What size?
Throttle body, Bigger? Size?
Roller rockers? Size?

What else am I missing?

Thanks for all the help..

Originally Posted by Blue96Z28

Intake port is definitely worth it if you got the coin, in addition to port matching he opens up the throttle body holes to 58MM, this is required if you ever want to run a 58mm TB.

Well $200.00 is not to bad in the grand scheme of things. I like the idea of being setup for future mods while its out.

30# minimum. Most would say go a little bigger since it won't hurt anything and you will have more room to grow if you decide to do a bigger CAM later.

What sizes are available, 32, 34, 36#? I do not want to go tooo far past the comfort zone.

TB size is highly debated, 'most' people say stock TB is good to 425+ crank hp range. Lloyd will recommend a 58MM and the ported intake. You can get by with stock if you choose without issue, I would still do the intake porting even if running the stock TB since he does a lot more work than besides just the opening up of the TB holes.

Whats in the middle from stock to 58mm? Isnt it 52mm? Would that be a happy medium?

Roller rockers of some sort are required. I would go with 7/16 NSA 1.6 ratio and guideplates/hardened pushrods. 1.6 is pretty much the default, some people use 3/8 SA but I don't see a reason to risk, not much cost difference. Best/default ones are Comp Pro Mags. Lots of options here though, sharp, scorpion, most people stray away from proform/summits but with NSA and 7/16 some of the cheaper ones aren't terrible for a mild setup IMO. If the RPM is kept low and you have to save $ you could get by with SA 3/8 if you absolutely had to.

Now this where I am having an issue. I want to have the reliability without the constant need for adjustment. What size studs are in the heads now? Could I stay with the stock stud size and do the 1.6 with "guideplates/hardened pushrods" and accomplish what I want? I will be turning some high RPM's since the car will see some autoX use and some street use. I would rather wait a little bit longer for the money and only do it once then cheap out and do it twice.

Don't forget pushrods, guideplates(if going NSA) and new lifters. Lots of CAM guides on the forums, tons of little stuff that will nickel and dime you, you'd me surprised.

Is there a certain size pushrod or I need to measure once I have it assembled? When you say " Lots of CAM guides on the forums " do you mean for sale? Is this something you get away with by buying used?

Originally Posted by quik95lt1

removing all that stuff is great i did it on mine last year i went as far as loosing the fuse box and harness and making my own under the dash......cut off all brackets and welded holes looks great and theres a ton of space and lost weight

What can I actually get rid of and the car still fuction? I would like to get rid of all the emmissions and as much of the vacuum crap as possible. Do have a pic or know of a write up that has this info in some detail? Kinda like a step by step.

..........as for the H&C, ive had nothing but great experiences with AI not that theres anything wrong with the other guys but everything ive done with them has hauled *** and is durable.....

Thats good to know as I am still in the research stage. Do you have a link to there page?

as for the intake id leave it be unless you do the heads stock intake is not bad out of the box......if anytning a bit of inlet porting can help, with stock heads leave the runners alone

If I go with the LE2 it will have some port work done. And I may go with a bigger TB as well.

Originally Posted by 1961ba427

Whats in the middle from stock to 58mm? Isnt it 52mm? Would that be a happy medium?

52mm is in the middle, and if going this route, get a ported stocker and it will idle better than an aftermarket that hasn't been modded. In my opinion, don't worry about a happy medium though....either keep the stocker or spend the money on the 58mm.

OK, so 58mm its what I will put in the book since its the same price.

"I would go with 7/16 NSA 1.6 ratio and guideplates/hardened pushrods."

After a quick look in the book (summit) fit a reference, I am wondering which ones to order, 3/8 top 7/16 top, our what bottom, just confused.

I want to have the reliability without the constant need for adjustment.

You shouldn't have to worry about that with your hydraulic lifters.

Thanks for that answer...

What size studs are in the heads now? Could I stay with the stock stud size and do the 1.6 with "guideplates/hardened pushrods" and accomplish what I want? I will be turning some high RPM's since the car will see some autoX use and some street use. I would rather wait a little bit longer for the money and only do it once then cheap out and do it twice.

3/8" are stock, but it only costs slightly more to move up to a 7/16" stud and rockers which will be more stable at higher rpm's

See the above question on the top or bottom and what size goes where...

Originally Posted by Albert96TA

Thanks for the info Quick95