Rodinator1234

I might be a hill billy no nothing bum but here it goes. First very nice shop, and great pics. If it was me, I would punch that piston out and hone the crap out of that spot where the valve hit the cylinder wall and put it back together after you fix the head of course. As for the oil pump, this is what I've done before, again very red neck. Picture this, go back about .375 from where the spot weld is. With the pick up tube in place drill a hole for a 1/8 roll pin in the pump housing on through the pick up tube can't remember the drill size but it's not 1/8 for a 1/8 roll pin. Pull pick up tube back out and blow/clean all shavings out. Get a roll pin about 3/8 long and drive it in until the pin just pick up the tube and you can't pull the tube back out. If it's too long grind it off if it's not long enough get a punch and push it in a little more and put a tack over the spot where you drilled the hole so it does not suck air there. Then I also tack spots on the pick up tube to the housing. If the welds break the pin will hold the tube. Another thing you can do is get a piece of strap metal 1/2 inch wide 1/16 thick long enough to go from first bolt hole on the short side of the oil pump to the pick up tube. Drill a hole in it the size of the pump bolt and put it in a vice and bend a twist in it and bolt it back to the pump and then tack the other end to the pick up tube in several places. You will have to grind a radius in the strap so it will fit right under the bolt head. So basically you have a strap bolted down holding the pick up tube if the welds break. Then put a tack on the pick up tube to the housing Welding cast pump bodies to steel pick up tubes never seems to work right for me anyway. It sucks you had to do this, you put all good parts in and try like heck to do it right, you can tell by your facility you are a perfectionist and then a lowly little valve spring ruins your fun.

fex77k

iTrader: (2)

you can sleeve the cylinder, but you will need to replace anything that was in the carnage zone.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Does the cost justify the means though? Especially when a block can be picked up for the cheap these days.

fex77k

iTrader: (2)

Well I have a sleeve in my 396, being a 4bolt block I didn't want to search for another. I have the great misfortune of not living next to a big city where parts for these cars are cheap as dirt. The last time I saw a LT1 parts at swap meets or at local picking lots they never knew what they had or they wanted big bucks. Apparently to them if it was ever in a corvette then their eyes turn into dollar signs. The other reason is I have access to a machine shop that actually knows what they are doing, didn't cost me but a bit of labor and whatever they are getting for the sleeve.

mpcv2000

iTrader: (1)

( updated Dec 3rd 2012 ) .
According to PAC Racing ( because they have inspected my springs ) told me the springs specifications are the exact same as a CompCams # 26918 .
They didn't say it was a CompCams but the specs. are the same .

So it is not a PAC1218 faillure because this spring is not a PAC , it is a BeeHive spring faillure , yes.

fex77k

iTrader: (2)

Well looks like someone has some explaining to do, if they told you that they were PAC and threw whatever they wanted in then that is a bit shady don't you think?

mpcv2000

iTrader: (1)

Not really because I'm pretty sure Lloyd use to have both on his LE package early 2010.

This summer when I called Lloyd Elliot he told me what model they were ( PAC ) and I was unable to locate some in Canada fast so I called him back and he told me to use the CompCams # 26918 they will interchange no problem so this is why I think he may have had use both brand and models in his LE package back then.

Early 2010 when I bought the heads from him for my 2010-2011 winter project even if they would have been Compcams or PAC racing springs in them I would have bought the heads anyway .

We can't blame LLoyd for that because both springs would have been good for my setup anyway .

I'm comfortable with that.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

There are a LOT more brands than manufacturers.

TwoFast4Lv

iTrader: (8)

This has never failed me

fex77k

iTrader: (2)

Well I'd want to know who made those springs then. Short of an installation error I don't see why they failed on you.

WS Sick

Pac manufactures alot of springs that are reboxed by other companies...Comp, Lunati, etc.

mpcv2000

iTrader: (1)

I have send my heads to ( Edit Feb 16 2013 ) Mr. No name. for a refresh and he told me that he was using what ever was available from his supplier back then so it was either CompCams # 26918 or PAC since both had the right specification for his LE Package .

TurboBuick6

iTrader: (2)

Not the 26918. But we do a lot of private label.

mpcv2000

iTrader: (1)

Hello Matt

TurboBuick6

iTrader: (2)

Hey Martin. Hope the weather is fine up there.

mpcv2000

iTrader: (1)

So far so good Matt.

Car is sleeping anyway so weather can be as bad as she wants , I have heat , cold beer , etc. so I'm ready for a long winter.

TurboBuick6

iTrader: (2)

Sounds like it doesn't get much better than that!

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

My understanding was PAC made the early 918s but then Comp went offshore and that was when there was the flood of failures years ago.

mpcv2000

iTrader: (1)

I don't think this information will be available to us.

We all see that , companies making stuff for a competitor sold under a different name and this is good but quality control and R&D is critical when buying Off Shore if you don't want to put a stain on your reputation or a particular product you carry.

1961ba427

iTrader: (26)

It really stinks that a broken spring is costing you so much, but maybe it's a blessing in disguise since you found the pickup tube in the pan. That could have cost you alot more if you kept running it like that.
I agree with someone who said your shop should have it's own thread!!
From what I see in the pics, I think that piston would be fine.....I'd clean it up some by deburring it, but I don't think it would ever fail from the valve kissing it like that.
I think the best thing to do is swap your rotating assembly into a donor block although sleeving that one is an option if you want to keep the 4 bolt main. I personally am okay with a 2 bolt block for anything less than 500 rwhp. Sure the 4 bolt would be nice to have, but it doesn't seem like a necessity at your level.