383 big bore (lt-1)
#1
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how much power difference is there between a STOCK 95 cadillac 5.7 (350cid) LT-1
and the same motor, same heads, same everything, with a stock 4" bore and a 3.75 stroke kit (377cid)
(presumably the cheap Eagle kit with forged crank, decent pistons blah blah)
The motor is in my 91 camaro, i have a decent intake, and 3" exhaust, no cat on it, but am running the stock manifolds until i can figure out something better that will FIT. so let's say my car... eeh... maybe makes 340 at the flywheel? you know... being overly generous..
what does a 377 make N/A ?
is it REQUIRED to port the heads if you do a 377?
Here's the deal. I can afford the kit, can't afford the machining.
but with that said, i just ASSUME i can't afford the machining, because it sounds expensive.
how much on average is it to machine heads and/or bore cylinders .030 over, so i could make it a solid 383?
and again, what's the power on that N/A ??
ugh.... also, would i have to get a larger throttle body?
for that money, would i be better off to get better pistons, and put maybe 8psi boost to it exactly as is? I'm sure the stock crank and connecting rods would handle 8psi if i got lower compression pistons, or 6psi exactly how it is with no changes.
????????????????
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http://redacesmoto.com
and the same motor, same heads, same everything, with a stock 4" bore and a 3.75 stroke kit (377cid)
(presumably the cheap Eagle kit with forged crank, decent pistons blah blah)
The motor is in my 91 camaro, i have a decent intake, and 3" exhaust, no cat on it, but am running the stock manifolds until i can figure out something better that will FIT. so let's say my car... eeh... maybe makes 340 at the flywheel? you know... being overly generous..
what does a 377 make N/A ?
is it REQUIRED to port the heads if you do a 377?
Here's the deal. I can afford the kit, can't afford the machining.
but with that said, i just ASSUME i can't afford the machining, because it sounds expensive.
how much on average is it to machine heads and/or bore cylinders .030 over, so i could make it a solid 383?
and again, what's the power on that N/A ??
ugh.... also, would i have to get a larger throttle body?
for that money, would i be better off to get better pistons, and put maybe 8psi boost to it exactly as is? I'm sure the stock crank and connecting rods would handle 8psi if i got lower compression pistons, or 6psi exactly how it is with no changes.
????????????????
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
http://redacesmoto.com
#2
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I would just stop and leave it alone. Adding cubes without adding air (heads/cam) produces less power than adding heads/cam on stock cubes. Full machining is between $800-1000, however a very basic bare essentials rebuild of the stock bottom end assuming there is no knock or oil consumption now would be I think $150 to resize the rods for arp rod bolts, plus new rings, bearings, gaskets, fluid, etc expect to pay around $700 not including if you have someone else assemble it. Why does the motor need a rebuild? It sounds like you have zero experience with engines and will underestimate the little things, not have enough money to finish the project and abandon it, or finish it with shitty parts and get shitty results and put yourself in debt.
Stop, take a step back, and do some reading around on the forums for a couple months.
And you are in no way making 340 fwhp now, more like 270. Stock is 260. With just 27 more cubes, you might make 280, after spending $3000, horrible hp/$.
Stop, take a step back, and do some reading around on the forums for a couple months.
And you are in no way making 340 fwhp now, more like 270. Stock is 260. With just 27 more cubes, you might make 280, after spending $3000, horrible hp/$.
Last edited by bufmatmuslepants; 02-19-2013 at 06:07 AM.
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if you are going to attempt to build a motor from a used block and not at least hone it your in for a real supprise....if you dont have the $$ dont tackle the build yet till you do, a good machine shop will charge $450-500 to bore/hone and hot tank a block with deckplates......you need to do some serious reasearch
Last edited by quik95lt1; 02-19-2013 at 07:39 AM.
#5
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Step back, rethink, then get realistic. Why are you trying to go stroker in the first place. Is your engine toast? Do you just thing its cool to say you have a stroker? We can help but only to an extent. Building an engine isn't cheap, and if you cheap out; you'll regret it.
No saying how much power it would make; but you would be better off with a heads and cam setup from one of our sponsors. They can put you over 400 to the wheels with the right setup, assuming the rest of your engine is in good working order.
No saying how much power it would make; but you would be better off with a heads and cam setup from one of our sponsors. They can put you over 400 to the wheels with the right setup, assuming the rest of your engine is in good working order.
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Freshen up your stock motor with a H/C/I upgrade and be done. Also have to keep in mind the parts behind that motor that will start to give out once you're making more power. Best rule of thumb with builds, take your time and do it right the first time.
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$150 for a basic refresh at the machine shop? That seems a little too cheap?
Not to hijack, but I'd like to refresh my LT1 and I've been researching what to expect after pulling it. My engine runs perfectly now with a bit of a valvetrain tick (all temps and rpms), oil pressure at 10-12psi according to dash gauge (could be way off from age) and 100k on it from what I was told.
How much can I expect to pay if I do all disassembly and reassembly, just machine shop labor. This is my first time doing an engine rebuild, but if my cylinders are in good shape- I can get away without boring them correct? (Just honing). I know it can vary greatly, but assume normal wear and no damage.
Not to hijack, but I'd like to refresh my LT1 and I've been researching what to expect after pulling it. My engine runs perfectly now with a bit of a valvetrain tick (all temps and rpms), oil pressure at 10-12psi according to dash gauge (could be way off from age) and 100k on it from what I was told.
How much can I expect to pay if I do all disassembly and reassembly, just machine shop labor. This is my first time doing an engine rebuild, but if my cylinders are in good shape- I can get away without boring them correct? (Just honing). I know it can vary greatly, but assume normal wear and no damage.
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.... as far as the quoted text, dude.. i've read a lot of your comments on other people's threads, and you're not typically a d!ck, so why are you being one to me now?
thx guys...
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#11
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No, really, he has his dickish comments, you haven't read enough of his threads. But we all make these comments when we see another thread about the same thing as the thread right below it with a stupid question. It's ******* annoying when people just post instead of scrolling down a couple pages and reading the exact same thread.