While im finally getting close to the drivetrain getting situated, I wanted to get some ahead of time knowledge on long tube headers before I pick a random cheapest set not knowing what the advantages & disadvantages besides cost.

Obvious those brands are more expensive than the common pacesetter’s but what is it about the kooks, OBX, and AR Long tubes to which there more expensive. Obviously your gonna net more gains, but why exactly are you going to net more gains with the more expensive long tubes? Just simply larger pipes (not talking about the collectors), better welding, certain header pipe angles than the PaceSetters?

Yeah I know I should have gone to school (A little out of my budget at the moment), but other than experience teaching me, not sure how many books out there will teach me the deep profound detailed questions I ask. Lol

 

I made 410 rwhp 370 rwtq with a stock bottom end LE2 setup years ago with the Pacesetters. Not sure on the OBX but the others are stainless steel which is why they cost more.

 

Kooks & ARH are basically the same, believe one was founded from members of the other. You pay for the name, and with it, great fitting high quality stainless headers.

Pacesetters would be the best of the cheap stuff mild steel wise IMO, get em coated and they will be fine.

The OBX ebay stainless stuff is a hit of miss, you may need to grind K member areas or dent primaries to make em fit, but you pay significantly less and you still get nice stainless that won't flake or rust.

Regardless of what brand you get, they all will fit like **** if you do not replace the motor mounts.

 

This.

I've mentioned in the past that people don't realize just how worn their motor mounts get until they try to install headers and have all sorts of issues.

I had my Z28 already apart and needed it back together so had to notch my motor mount perch to get the drivers side to clear since the motor was sitting so low. If I had gotten motor mounts with them, I would have had a much easier install.

 

the ebay stainless are very nice.

 

Which system works the best on ground clearance for a lowered F-body or are they all about the same?

 

x2 on Ebay stainless steel knockoffs. Back in the day they were like $250 shipped to my door for SS LT's and ORY.

Car picked up quite a bit performance wise compared to stock exhaut

 

I like my Hookers. They fit just fine.

 

There are a bunch on ebay right now for under that price, shipped with the ORY. I just can't imagine for that price they'd be any good.

Any guinea pigs? lol
I need to replace my manifolds.

 

Big Hammer got a set and they look beautiful. Better quality then my Pacesetters that I got for $400.

 

certainly not junk. near kooks quality, from first glance

 

I can't remember what I spent, but it was something like that. I'm probably including header gaskets, etc. with that price.

They fit just fine for me.

 

those ebay ones look great, im about to pull of my ole rusty headers for those when i do the mounts.

 

Headers can look like pure awesomeness right about till the moment where they fit like ****.

And then, you have some lovely paperweights.

 

but are those the ones that are selling for less than $220 with the ORY?

I believe these are the ones you got?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/93-97-Camaro-Stainless-Steel-LT1-Long-Tube-Exhaust-Headers-Manifolds-SS-Z28-new-/151110791230?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item232ee7b03e&vxp=mtr
and I am talking about these:
$217
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1993-1997-Pontiac-Firebird-Chevy-Camaro-5-7L-V8-LT1-Performance-Exhaust-Header-/231091710981?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35ce23ac05&vxp=mtr
$221
http://www.ebay.com/itm/331057028756...84.m1423.l2649

 

I have the Kooks now, they're stepped and are really nice headers. Fit really well and I still have the factory LT1 steering knuckle like I did with the Hooker LTs. I had to delete the factory oil cooler with the Kooks, didn't have to do that when I had the Hooker LTs. With the stepped headers you have to use a universals and an extension to get to the starter bolts. Basically because you have to route the extension between the primaries to get access to the starter bolts and then put a universal on with the socket. Not a big deal if you have the right tools to do it but some thing to keep in mind. I didn't have to do that with the old Hooker LTs.

Plug access seems fine on either set. So long as you have a short socket like the cut down SLP and the engine is cool, you can knock it out fairly easy, my car has a/c now and the compressor doesn't make it a pain since on the Kooks 2 & 4 come out from the top. Once you do plugs a couple times you learn the angles and it becomes easy.

I have helped install a set of Pace Setters, they seemed nice, fit well. The coating was kinda cheap. I really didn't like the 3 bolt flange on the Hooker LTs, they always seemed like kind of a pain. You can also look at Dyna Techs, they were the same headers that FLP modified and offered years back. Not sure if they are still around, I think they no longer offer LT1 Headers. I don't think my car really made any more with the H/C with the stepped headers, I have a 398 that will eventually go in so I didn't want to buy headers twice since I was replacing my Hooker LTs for other reasons.