Best plug for the LT1?
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Joined: Jan 2013
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From: Las Vegas
Tried Autolites in copper and worked OK but need to change nearly every year.
AC delco single platinums defiantly work OK.
Using Champion single platinums now and i think it was a mistake without a hot ignition box as they seem to be a little colder plug and are loading up.
Havent tried NGKs yet but looking forward to it.
AC delco single platinums defiantly work OK.
Using Champion single platinums now and i think it was a mistake without a hot ignition box as they seem to be a little colder plug and are loading up.
Havent tried NGKs yet but looking forward to it.
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NGK TR55 or TR5 regapped to .050 are fine as are autolite 104 some have used 106 which is a little hotter. All those are basic plugs which will wear down quickly compared to a platinum or iridium plug but when fresh and new all will make the same power.
Fancy sparkplugs like platinum and iridium are about slowing gap erosion. Multiple electrodes(bosch, splitfire, E3) are a scam to take ignorant people's money.
If you want a long service life from plugs on a stock engine just use the stock 96-97 plugs as those are double platinum instead of single, meaning there is a platinum puck on the ground strap as well not just the electrode.
Fancy sparkplugs like platinum and iridium are about slowing gap erosion. Multiple electrodes(bosch, splitfire, E3) are a scam to take ignorant people's money.
If you want a long service life from plugs on a stock engine just use the stock 96-97 plugs as those are double platinum instead of single, meaning there is a platinum puck on the ground strap as well not just the electrode.
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Believe it or not, my Blazer daily beater would eat NGK spark plugs. Every week I'd be replacing one or two. Annoying after about two months.
I went to the original specified ACDelco plugs and they've lasted thousands of miles.
Go figure. A rare win for the "new" ACDelco. I think I'm gonna stick with them in the T/A.
I went to the original specified ACDelco plugs and they've lasted thousands of miles.
Go figure. A rare win for the "new" ACDelco. I think I'm gonna stick with them in the T/A.
Modern ignitions will wear down basic plugs like the TR55 and 104, lot of spark energy.
On the other side though using platinums in performance applications risks blowing off the platinum pucks.
On the other side though using platinums in performance applications risks blowing off the platinum pucks.
FWIW, I've used the OE plugs (of course), AC Rapidfires, and Bosch Platinum +4s. From a performance standpoint, I never noticed a difference, although I don't race the car.
What do you guys think about the newer platinum/iridium +4 plug. How do you think it compares to NGK TR55 copper. Do you think I should stay with NGK copper plugs if I'm running nitrous? Just want some opinions. I read recently in a hot rod magazine and it was suggested that the plat/irid +4 might be a more complete burn for nitrous.
For nitrous, stick with pure copper. Depending upon your total power output (not just what size shot you're spraying), you may need a non-projected tip plug. For a stock engine with a 150 shot, you'd get by with something like a NGK TR6 or Autolite 103, but for a healthy NA engine with even a 100 shot on top of it, run something like an NGK BR7EF.
Believe it or not, my Blazer daily beater would eat NGK spark plugs. Every week I'd be replacing one or two. Annoying after about two months.
I went to the original specified ACDelco plugs and they've lasted thousands of miles.
Go figure. A rare win for the "new" ACDelco. I think I'm gonna stick with them in the T/A.
I went to the original specified ACDelco plugs and they've lasted thousands of miles.
Go figure. A rare win for the "new" ACDelco. I think I'm gonna stick with them in the T/A.
Depends on your cylinder heads, compression, and whether or not you have a power adder.
I ran TR55s on my NA ported stocker build. The car ran better gapped at a smaller .035 instead of .050 with ~11:1 CR, an OEM opti, Taylor Thundervolts, and a Blaster coil. Tuner requested the smaller gap, and it cleaned up the top end (although it didn't make any more power).
I will by trying the autolite 3935 on my stroker, also NA but with AFRs and 12.5:1 CR. This one will be a 411 PCM and the much stronger coil on plug ignition, so it will most likely prefer a wider gap, even with the extra compression.
I ran TR55s on my NA ported stocker build. The car ran better gapped at a smaller .035 instead of .050 with ~11:1 CR, an OEM opti, Taylor Thundervolts, and a Blaster coil. Tuner requested the smaller gap, and it cleaned up the top end (although it didn't make any more power).
I will by trying the autolite 3935 on my stroker, also NA but with AFRs and 12.5:1 CR. This one will be a 411 PCM and the much stronger coil on plug ignition, so it will most likely prefer a wider gap, even with the extra compression.
On gapping I heard this rule a long time ago and it seems to be pretty spot on.
Run the smallest gap you can that still gives good idle. Of course this is typical for performance engines.
Run the smallest gap you can that still gives good idle. Of course this is typical for performance engines.
