GM 847 cam questions

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Sep 23, 2004 | 09:47 PM

NVRLATE

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From: Olathe, KS

GM 847 cam questions

I have been reading the posts on this forum for sometime and I have several questions concerning the GM 847 cam. Who make's it and where can I get one? I have a 97 WS6, A4, 3.73 gears, 58mm TB and Hooker long tubes. It only has 27K. I want an aggressive cam with a nice lumpy idle. I'm not looking to create a sleeper. Will a vacuum canister have to be added with this cam? I plan on getting heads next summer, can the cam be installed prior to the heads without damaging the engine? Any advice you could give me would be appreciated.

Sep 23, 2004 | 09:52 PM

S8ER95Z

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Im running the 306 which is a isnt as big but i believe a little more radical..i have no vacuum issues to speak of. So I dont think you will need a canister. Someone can answer for sure though.

Sep 23, 2004 | 09:52 PM

BizZzatch350

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From: T E X A S

No vacume can needed, its made by Crane for GM Performance Parts, will work great with eads but you need a stall. Also its cut at 112, wont sound sleeper at all with LTs, should make great power.

Sep 24, 2004 | 01:23 PM

-PEPE-

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Quote:

Originally Posted by NVRLATE

First and foremost if your mileage is wayyyyyy up there I'd recommend a rebuild, I don't care if the cam bearings are in great shape, mine were too, but two hrs after install my engines main bearings disentegrated, too much cam in that old LT1 and it killed her, week later I rebuilt it, all forged, yada yada yada and she's a beast, lumps like crazy, blah blah blah, you'll love this cam. It's sorta like what the lil baby HOTCAM was 5yrs ago.

I'm running this cam with 1.7RRs, no vacuum problems at all, key is getting a decent tune, don't let a vendor try and laptop tune it and drive around the block, had my share of that horseshit and never again, unless I do it myself, get it dyno tuned - bottom line.

You can install this cam prior to heads, recommend 1.6 RRs (I personally use 1.7RRs but I'm not normal

)which will net .575/.595 lift, 1-pc c-moly pushrods, CompRs or some brand of upgraded Hyd-lifters and definitely upgrade your springs. Crane springs PN 99893-16 or the entire spring kit Crane kit #10308-1 (SPRING KIT) comes with springs, retainers & keepers and are upgraded from the springs the cam card officially recommends.

I'm gauging selling mine, changing my entire combo.....again, so if your interested shoot me a PM, should be about a month before I know for sure. I'll be selling the springs, retainers/keepers, 1pc cmoly pushrods & CompR lifters. NOT selling the 1.7RRs yet but possibly, they were $346.00 so kinda hard to let em go just yet.

Last edited by BRETTINATOR; Sep 24, 2004 at 02:43 PM.

Sep 24, 2004 | 07:15 PM

ZMaster

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You consider 27 thousand miles wayyyy up there??? You know, not all of us can afford a rebuild every winter...anyway, for that cam, yeah, i'd go with brettinator; new springs, lifters, retainers, rr--if you're gonna do it, do it right. Anyway, it's a good idea to upgrade the valvetrain when you put in a cam, and the parts will work even better when you get your headwork done. Word of warning, however: most guys making all the power with this cam on stock heads are shifting between 6700 and 6900 rpm, so keep the revs down till you can afford to rebuild your bottom-end, sometime bewteen next week and a few years down the line. Some guys are lucky, and some aren't. Good luck, and have fun huntin down some mustangs.