LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

car wont stay running after valve adjustment

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Old 06-05-2006, 09:53 PM
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Default car wont stay running after valve adjustment

well i bent a pushrod last week and got the new ones in today. they are summit brand chromemoly stock length. the car has the lt4 hotcam kit with ported heads/intake, headers, cai and delteq. after adjusting the valves... getting each cylinder one at a time on roll over and spinning the pushrod until it stops spinning while tightning down the nut. then giving it a half a turn then locking it in place. i did that on all the cylinders and then when i hooked everything back up the car would fire and run for a second, but then it just dies. if i give it gas it will stay running for a brief second then die again. there is no chattering like the rockers are loose or anything... and i dont think the valves are too tight so i just dont know what it could be. all sensors are hooked up and the ses light is not on. so any and all help is greatly appreciated. thanks alot

daniel
Old 06-05-2006, 10:01 PM
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when you tried to start it, did you have the maf on the TB?

The car will do exactly what your talking about if the MAF isn't on. it'll start for a second, even if you have the gas down to the floor it won't rev, itlll just die.
Old 06-05-2006, 10:11 PM
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That or the Resonator on the Intake Elbow isn't hooked up all the way.
Old 06-05-2006, 10:28 PM
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I was under the impression that you can run the car without the MAF. It just would run in SD mode. Did you mean the iac?
Old 06-05-2006, 10:42 PM
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It'll take about 6-7 tries to get it started without the MAF. Then it'll shoot a nasty smeell out the exhaust and run VERY ROUGH
Old 06-05-2006, 10:46 PM
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I just noticed he never mentioned the year of his setup. If it's a 93 then this whole maf convo is pointless. Ive run my car at idle just fine without the maf connected. Also I wouldnt rule out something in the ignition causing this. Id just double and triple check all my work and make sure EVERYTHING is plugged back up.
Old 06-06-2006, 09:16 AM
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ooooooooooooh. so it's a OBD1. ok. my bad
Old 06-06-2006, 10:01 AM
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loosen the rockers.... and try only a quater turn... you may have gone further than you think and your putting so much pressure down that it bogs the engine...
Old 06-06-2006, 01:08 PM
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wow... look at all the responses! damn this lt1 forum is so much better than the ls1 lol. it took forever to get help over there when i had one haha.

but blackbird pretty much hit it on the head... the intake elbow is such a pain in the *** to get on that i just left it off to try and start the car. so i put it back on and sho nuff it works great.

only problem now is that she has a high rpm miss, what all could cause that?
Old 06-06-2006, 01:12 PM
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Exellent glad to hear you got it running. I would just check all your plugs and wires are tight, none of them are burned. Hopefully someone else will hhave some insight on this.
Old 06-06-2006, 01:15 PM
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yea thats what i hope that it is, but hey are the spark plug wires not supposed to be touching? like would the wires arch off of eachother like that?!?
Old 06-06-2006, 05:41 PM
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if you need any help... you can email me i live only about 30 min away from you.. so if your ever stumped email me at harvickgm@yahoo.com
Old 06-07-2006, 10:57 AM
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cool man, thanks alot i will be sure to do so.
Old 06-07-2006, 12:52 PM
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Your plug wires can be touching. Mine are, on both side of the engine.
Old 06-07-2006, 01:06 PM
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sweet. that eliminates one more thing lol.

now i read somewhere that over tightened valves could cause this type of stumble. and after further "testing" lol i found out that it starts to miss at about 4000 rpms and on up. what do yall think of that?
Old 06-07-2006, 05:54 PM
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but i was wondering, could it be because the stock knock module is picking up extra noise? it didnt have this problem before i did the valves, so pretty much that is what is left. if i adjust the valves and it doesnt go away? i made sure nothing was arching and all the plugs are snug and have good connections.

btw, it starts to miss at about 4000 rpm or so. plugs are autolite 106's gapped to .050
Old 06-07-2006, 06:00 PM
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Originally Posted by 68birdls1
well i bent a pushrod last week and got the new ones in today. they are summit brand chromemoly stock length. the car has the lt4 hotcam kit with ported heads/intake, headers, cai and delteq. after adjusting the valves... getting each cylinder one at a time on roll over and spinning the pushrod until it stops spinning while tightning down the nut. then giving it a half a turn then locking it in place. i did that on all the cylinders and then when i hooked everything back up the car would fire and run for a second, but then it just dies. if i give it gas it will stay running for a brief second then die again. there is no chattering like the rockers are loose or anything... and i dont think the valves are too tight so i just dont know what it could be. all sensors are hooked up and the ses light is not on. so any and all help is greatly appreciated. thanks alot

daniel
I highlighted the problem. That method is OFTEN given out as advise but in reality results in the rockers being WAY TOO TIGHT. Use no vertical pushrod movement as "zero lash" and I guarantee better results. If using polylocks as you most likely are just turn the nut down by hand till is stops then back it off a little till you can move the pushrod up and down and tighten a little till it stops again you will quickly get a feel for how much twist to put on the nut for zero lash.
Old 06-07-2006, 06:01 PM
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Hook up a datalogger or something to find out for sure if youre getting knock.
Old 06-07-2006, 11:44 PM
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all right sounds good, and i will def try that way to tighten my valves. thanks alot guys, and i will give results tomorrow.
Old 06-08-2006, 12:31 AM
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I like to adjust the valves with the pushrod method to get them close, then adjust them with the engne running to set them permanently.


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