Could someone please explain this to me? MAF Problem.
09-10-2007, 01:49 PM
#1
TECH Junkie
Thread Starter
iTrader: (17)
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Rapid City, SD
Posts: 3,161
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Could someone please explain this to me? MAF Problem. When I went to go look at my 97 LT1 TA, the engine light was on. I asked him has he tried to fix it, and he said he has done mostly everything except the MAF which would be installed the following weekend. He contacted me that weekend and said the MAF had been replaced and the SES light went off. DING!
About a week later, I was leaving work, got on the throttle a little bit and i felt a slight sputter for 1/2 sec, the SES light came on, and then never had any more sputters after that. Went to the local Advanced Auto Parts to have the code scanned, and it was a MAF/Vacuum code. He tried erasing the code but it did nothing.
Yesterday, I decided to take a look at my sensors, intake, MAF, and TB. I noticed I did not completely seat my SLP intake tight enough into the MAF, I thought it was simple. I cleaned my throttle body, and check and cleaned the intake sensors, and reinstalled all the components. I turned the car back on, and the SES light was still on. We decided to clear the code, which we did and the light went off. WOOT. Immediately after the light going off, I went for a drive. I didn't get on the throttle too much but it felt more torquey at lower RPMs, it seemed to drive much stronger. Success.
Well, later that day I was driving around and decided to drop it WOT. I feel the same sputter as before, but it seemed to be the worst in 2nd gear WOT. Well after a few attempts at WOT, with it sputtering, the SES light came back on again. It immediately did not feel as strong at lower RPMs, but would never sputter again at WOT.
What is wrong here?
About a week later, I was leaving work, got on the throttle a little bit and i felt a slight sputter for 1/2 sec, the SES light came on, and then never had any more sputters after that. Went to the local Advanced Auto Parts to have the code scanned, and it was a MAF/Vacuum code. He tried erasing the code but it did nothing.
Yesterday, I decided to take a look at my sensors, intake, MAF, and TB. I noticed I did not completely seat my SLP intake tight enough into the MAF, I thought it was simple. I cleaned my throttle body, and check and cleaned the intake sensors, and reinstalled all the components. I turned the car back on, and the SES light was still on. We decided to clear the code, which we did and the light went off. WOOT. Immediately after the light going off, I went for a drive. I didn't get on the throttle too much but it felt more torquey at lower RPMs, it seemed to drive much stronger. Success.
Well, later that day I was driving around and decided to drop it WOT. I feel the same sputter as before, but it seemed to be the worst in 2nd gear WOT. Well after a few attempts at WOT, with it sputtering, the SES light came back on again. It immediately did not feel as strong at lower RPMs, but would never sputter again at WOT.
What is wrong here?
09-10-2007, 11:17 PM
#5
TECH Junkie
Thread Starter
iTrader: (17)
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Rapid City, SD
Posts: 3,161
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
First it was the P0100 code, and i scanned it again and it was the same code. After tinkering around I saw a P0102 code. But it went away. Also when disconnecting the MAF sensor, it doesn't stutter at all, it just doesn't seem as powerful.
09-11-2007, 06:44 PM
#7
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Statesboro, Georgia
Posts: 605
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
imo bro, first off i would start looking for a vacuum leak, next... follow the wiring from the maf to the pcm, check for rubs or shorts in the wire. but first, MAKE SURE THE CONNECTOR IS CLEAN and fully plugged in... SLawson86@yahoo.com, e-mail or pm me and i will try to step you through it
Trending Topics
09-11-2007, 06:51 PM
#8
TECH Addict
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Ringoes/Flemington, New Jersey
Posts: 2,858
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
2 Posts
it runs ok without the maf because it uses data that was used before when you had the MAF connected... kinda likea history in your internet explorer. It guesses at what the airflow MAY be.
P0100 is readiness modules, no?
P0100 is readiness modules, no?
09-11-2007, 11:32 PM
#10
TECH Junkie
Thread Starter
iTrader: (17)
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Rapid City, SD
Posts: 3,161
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
After doing some research on the code, it mentioned something about PCV system. I replaced the PCV valve like last week and noticed the hose connected to the PCV valve is completely dried out, very stiff. I bent it and cracked it. It is really crimped, almost like a 90º angle, limiting the flow, and with the crack i'm sure it leaks. I just taped up the crack, i'll drive it tomorrow and erase the code and see how it works. I'm gonna run by the parts store and pick up and elbow and see if it helps anything.
It looks like the previous owner used some generic *** hose rather than an elbow, the way that its crimped..
After erasing the code a few times, the P0102 went away also.
It looks like the previous owner used some generic *** hose rather than an elbow, the way that its crimped..
After erasing the code a few times, the P0102 went away also.
Last edited by HoLLo; 09-11-2007 at 11:40 PM.
09-12-2007, 07:41 PM
#17
TECH Junkie
Thread Starter
iTrader: (17)
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Rapid City, SD
Posts: 3,161
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The SES light is on. P0100 is this: http://gearchatter.com/viewtopic8623...57abf411b71528
I just used my multimeter.. the 5v line is getting 5.00-5.01. The 12v line is getting 11.67-11.68
I just used my multimeter.. the 5v line is getting 5.00-5.01. The 12v line is getting 11.67-11.68
09-12-2007, 07:48 PM
#20
TECH Addict
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Ringoes/Flemington, New Jersey
Posts: 2,858
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
2 Posts
btw, when you test a MAF. you use the Frequency (Hz) portion of your meter. It should go up as your RPMS go up
also, there is this primitive test... while your car idles, gently tap on your MAF... if the car stumbles or stalls, then the MAF is bad.
also, there is this primitive test... while your car idles, gently tap on your MAF... if the car stumbles or stalls, then the MAF is bad.