Fried C5 Spec 3+, Tick Master?
01-31-2009, 03:08 PM
#1
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Fried C5 Spec 3+, Tick Master? So here is the problem. Im working on getting a friends 02 Z06 up and running. Clutch was the least of the problems but it was a problem none the less and one he doesnt need again. Car DESTROYED a spec 3+ in under 400 miles on the street and probably 4 hours of dyno time. Shifting was difficult if not impossible in a few of the gears. Transmission is a new RPM Level 5 unit.
Anyways, as I stated. Clutch is fried and he has a new one on order as well as a new steel insert for his flywheel. Obviously he doesnt want this to happen again. The clutch was installed using all factory hydraulics and no shim kit.
He has since ordered an adjustable master from Tick that we are going to put in as soon as it arrives. My question is, does he need a shim with the adjustable master? I read the information on shimming on the top of the page but im just wondering if anyone can toss me some insight here.
Thanks in advance.
Anyways, as I stated. Clutch is fried and he has a new one on order as well as a new steel insert for his flywheel. Obviously he doesnt want this to happen again. The clutch was installed using all factory hydraulics and no shim kit.
He has since ordered an adjustable master from Tick that we are going to put in as soon as it arrives. My question is, does he need a shim with the adjustable master? I read the information on shimming on the top of the page but im just wondering if anyone can toss me some insight here.
Thanks in advance.
02-01-2009, 08:14 PM
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So thanks for assuming im illiterate!
02-01-2009, 08:42 PM
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Sorry I misunderstood your post. I thought you were refering to the
instructions that come with the clutch.
I'm having the opposite problem with my Spec Stage 1. I installed the shim.
It shifts well, lauches well, lots of chatter in reverse though.
My problem is clutch slippage in 5th and 6th at low RPMs. This is most likely
from the shim pushing the throwout bearing into the pressure plate fingers.
( sort of like holding the peddle in a little bit. )
If I was to pull the tranny and remove the shim, That would most likely
solve my problem. The way I see it, when I pull the tranny again, I will
go with a different brand of clutch alltogether.
.
instructions that come with the clutch.
I'm having the opposite problem with my Spec Stage 1. I installed the shim.
It shifts well, lauches well, lots of chatter in reverse though.
My problem is clutch slippage in 5th and 6th at low RPMs. This is most likely
from the shim pushing the throwout bearing into the pressure plate fingers.
( sort of like holding the peddle in a little bit. )
If I was to pull the tranny and remove the shim, That would most likely
solve my problem. The way I see it, when I pull the tranny again, I will
go with a different brand of clutch alltogether.
.
02-01-2009, 08:58 PM
#5
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You dont have it so bad, pulling the trans on a f-body is quick. Corvettes are no picknic as you have to drop the whole rear cradle, diff, trans, and torque tube, OH and the exhaust obviously. It needs to be right when it goes back together. The car is wearing on me........
02-01-2009, 09:27 PM
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Looking at it that way, I don't have it as bad as you. Allthough I've never done a Vette before, I'm aware of all the extra procedures. I've dropped the tranny twice within the last 6 months in my garage, car on jackstands.
When I go to do it again I would like it to be the last time for a while.
In my honest opinion I would look at other clutch options. This is my first and last Spec. There are many other options on the market. If you must go with another Spec, you most likely will have to use the shim.
.
When I go to do it again I would like it to be the last time for a while.
In my honest opinion I would look at other clutch options. This is my first and last Spec. There are many other options on the market. If you must go with another Spec, you most likely will have to use the shim.
.
02-01-2009, 10:32 PM
#7
I don't think we've ever installed the shim on C5's because the bearing would push on the clutch.You HAVE TO measure the air gap when installing.
Add that up to the evidence the clutch was not broken in due to the only 400 miles with dyno pulls would kill the clutch quickly.I would guess it's melted to crap right now?
Add that up to the evidence the clutch was not broken in due to the only 400 miles with dyno pulls would kill the clutch quickly.I would guess it's melted to crap right now?
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02-02-2009, 05:36 AM
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I don't think we've ever installed the shim on C5's because the bearing would push on the clutch.You HAVE TO measure the air gap when installing.
Add that up to the evidence the clutch was not broken in due to the only 400 miles with dyno pulls would kill the clutch quickly.I would guess it's melted to crap right now?
Add that up to the evidence the clutch was not broken in due to the only 400 miles with dyno pulls would kill the clutch quickly.I would guess it's melted to crap right now?
I guess we will see what happens.
02-02-2009, 05:06 PM
#9
If your friend isn't going to break-in the clutch properly he needs to install a stage 5. This is considered a race clutch but it doesn't require break-in like a stage 3+. Either he needs to follow the break-in procedure or get a clutch that doesn't require it. If he has ordered the parts already tell him to call me and I will be happy to work with him to get the stage 5. I hope this helps.
02-02-2009, 05:22 PM
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If your friend isn't going to break-in the clutch properly he needs to install a stage 5. This is considered a race clutch but it doesn't require break-in like a stage 3+. Either he needs to follow the break-in procedure or get a clutch that doesn't require it. If he has ordered the parts already tell him to call me and I will be happy to work with him to get the stage 5. I hope this helps.
Last edited by breecher_7; 02-02-2009 at 05:35 PM.
02-03-2009, 06:04 AM
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Just gonna have to stay out of it for the first 500 I guess.
Slowhawk, what would your clutch recommendation be? Last year the car made 700rwhp on a mustang dyno with the 20 less cubes and a moderate tune. Obviously its gonna pick up this year...
02-03-2009, 11:10 AM
#16
Ultimately you can go the route that Slowhawk suggests as it will provide the best means of seating the unit. It just doesn't make sense to talk about the clutch not doing what you wanted if you can't or don't follow the suggested brake-in procedure. I don't intend to sound mean in saying this, but the initial post seems to make the clutch out to be at fault and I just want others reading this to understand the significance of proper brake-in. Let me know if you have any further questions.
02-03-2009, 05:16 PM
#17
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Uh the old clutch was detroyed due to improper installation and shitty factory hydraulics. Im sure the lack of break in didnt help, but ive done this before with other cars in the past and have never seen a clutch and flywheel get that fucked up that quick. It was not the clutches fault, it was installation and mechanical failure issues.
Spec-01, do you work for spec? If so, hook me up with better pricing....
Spec-01, do you work for spec? If so, hook me up with better pricing....
02-04-2009, 11:24 AM
#18
The topic seemed to indicate that this was perceived to be a clutch issue. I just wanted to make sure that folks understood the importance of proper break-in for clutch life. No harm, no foul. If you have any further technical questions you can contact me directly. Jeremy@specclutch.com. Thakns!
Last edited by Ragtop 99; 02-04-2009 at 05:42 PM.
