New stick, new fluid, getting better!
06-18-2009, 09:55 PM
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New stick, new fluid, getting better! So some of you may know from the issues I was having and solved from the WS6store short shifter thread. If not, its on pages 3, 4, and 5. https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...t-shifter.html
I followed the advice of changing the fluid in the clutch reservoir, which was pretty nasty. I pulled out a few big chunks of black. I have no idea what it was but they were little ***** of black gunk or something. Anyways, I removed it and changed the fluid, pumped the clutch a bunch, and repeated three times. Seems like its pretty clean in there now.
I went out for a drive and while it was only down the road and back, I didnt have any problems with getting into first or reverse. Time will tell if this really fixed the issue permanently or not.
Now I ask you, how smoothly does your car shift in and out of gear? I have a feeling that mine is still a bit rough or hard to get in so I request your opinion.
I followed the advice of changing the fluid in the clutch reservoir, which was pretty nasty. I pulled out a few big chunks of black. I have no idea what it was but they were little ***** of black gunk or something. Anyways, I removed it and changed the fluid, pumped the clutch a bunch, and repeated three times. Seems like its pretty clean in there now.
I went out for a drive and while it was only down the road and back, I didnt have any problems with getting into first or reverse. Time will tell if this really fixed the issue permanently or not.
Now I ask you, how smoothly does your car shift in and out of gear? I have a feeling that mine is still a bit rough or hard to get in so I request your opinion.
06-18-2009, 10:00 PM
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I'm on ls1tech way too much. Mine is slightly notchy but I've learned it is the syncronizers working. Never just jam it into gear unless you're racing
When just cruising, point the shifter where you want it to go and just lightly apply pressure for it to go into gear. If you're always jamming it in you're probably going to end up with a grinding issue soon.
Mine shifts great though.
Every night or morning check your fluid. If it gets dirty change it. Its that simple. You'll probably see more chunks here pretty soon since its gunked up like you said. I believe some of that stuff is clutch material that gets into the hydraulics in the bellhousing.
When just cruising, point the shifter where you want it to go and just lightly apply pressure for it to go into gear. If you're always jamming it in you're probably going to end up with a grinding issue soon. Mine shifts great though.
Every night or morning check your fluid. If it gets dirty change it. Its that simple. You'll probably see more chunks here pretty soon since its gunked up like you said. I believe some of that stuff is clutch material that gets into the hydraulics in the bellhousing.
06-18-2009, 10:05 PM
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Staging Lane
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Gotcha, I'm sure the previous owner rammed the stick into the fork pretty good a few times. I'm very careful and gentle with my baby. I have a bit of a notchy feel like you do. Its not too bad really. The short stick made it stick out a bit more then with the previous stick.
Haha, dont feel bad about surfing this forum too much. I, too, am on here a ton!
Haha, dont feel bad about surfing this forum too much. I, too, am on here a ton!
06-19-2009, 01:35 PM
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Glad to hear you're making progress Vic ...
The T56 equipped cars that I have driven, never really seemed to shift smooth at all times.
I just don't see the T56 as being a butter smooth transmission ( My opinion only ).
My 1992 Toyota truck and 2004 Nissan Frontier shift butter smooth. ( Both 5 speeds).
The easier you shift the longer your T-56 will last. Just jamming it from gear to gear all the time will lead to bent shift forks, stamped shift keys breaking, accelerated syncro ring wear.
The T-56 MN12 is a slightly smoother shifting transmission and the latest TR6060 or Magnum is supposed to be even smoother.
.
The T56 equipped cars that I have driven, never really seemed to shift smooth at all times.
I just don't see the T56 as being a butter smooth transmission ( My opinion only ).
My 1992 Toyota truck and 2004 Nissan Frontier shift butter smooth. ( Both 5 speeds).
The easier you shift the longer your T-56 will last. Just jamming it from gear to gear all the time will lead to bent shift forks, stamped shift keys breaking, accelerated syncro ring wear.
The T-56 MN12 is a slightly smoother shifting transmission and the latest TR6060 or Magnum is supposed to be even smoother.
.
Last edited by bearcatt; 06-19-2009 at 01:42 PM.
06-19-2009, 01:51 PM
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just so you know all the seals are NOT rubber. However clutch dust like brake dust is dark in color and I say that is what's slowly being introduced to the hydraulics.
vik if you ever need a slave cylinder, holler at me because I have one for sale brand new and will sell it to you cheaper than what I paid for it.
06-19-2009, 02:31 PM
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Staging Lane
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Thanks fellas. I've taken up the habit of changing the fluid every morning before I drive. I've also come to think that the shifts are due to the shorter stick. With a shorter stick, I have less torque to push and pull into each gear so I'm thinking thats what it is. I'm taking the car to Morris Motorsports sometime soon to change out the trans fluid. I'm not expecting anything to get better but I dont know when the last owner changed it so I'm just going to get it done.
Depending on if or when I need to change out my hydraulics/clutch, I'll look into contacting you for that cheaper slave!
Depending on if or when I need to change out my hydraulics/clutch, I'll look into contacting you for that cheaper slave!
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06-19-2009, 06:17 PM
#8
I am a very argumentive person so you're going to have to prove to me that it is the RUBBER seals breaking down.
just so you know all the seals are NOT rubber. However clutch dust like brake dust is dark in color and I say that is what's slowly being introduced to the hydraulics.
just so you know all the seals are NOT rubber. However clutch dust like brake dust is dark in color and I say that is what's slowly being introduced to the hydraulics.
Mike
06-19-2009, 06:25 PM
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"I particularly want to thank George Westby, Director of the Advanced Process Laboratory of Unovis Solutions, and his lead engineer, Martin Anselm. They collaborated in the analysis of clutch fluid and clutch dust samples, which I sent them from 2006 Z06s.
Click this link to open a copy of the Unovis Lab Report.
That report forms an important basis for concluding that clutch dust is infusing the clutch fluid of aggressively driven cars. And it is clutch dust that, if allowed to accumulate, constitutes an abrasive that damages integrity of seals in the hydraulics."
^ Can be found at http://www.rangeracceleration.com/Clutch_Care.html
pow right in the kissa, that's my peter griffin impersonation
06-19-2009, 06:57 PM
#10
That's an interesting read. I guess if the system is under vacuum, like when the pedal is first released, it could allow particals inside without leaking. I thought the slave had a better seal than that.
And you can do without the impersonations, they're really not that good. Somebody had to tell ya.... lol..
Mike
And you can do without the impersonations, they're really not that good. Somebody had to tell ya.... lol..
Mike
06-20-2009, 05:25 PM
#16
I did read the article, but just because something is posted on the internet does NOT make it a golden rule. I'm not saying the article is not valid, I'm just saying I have my doubts about the validity of what was stated. If what was stated in the article is true, then GM could have some class action law suits stacking up on pre-mature slave cylinder wear.
Mike
