01 t56 slave cylinder help
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just picked up my first trans am. sounds like the slave is out. no resistance pushin the pedal in but it comes out on its own. i wanna bleed the system and see if i can get a pedal before replacing the slave and the works. where the hell is the bleeder screw at?? big thanks in advance for help fellas
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You have a problem with the slave when it sticks to the floor at a high rpm shift or if its real bad like the 2 i've gone through they can stick to the floor from the time you start the car. Is it sticking to the floor at all? And there is no bleeder screw you have to disconnect the braded line of the slave on the driver side of the car.
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No its not sticking to the floor...Have the tool and removed the line. How do you test the clutch master to see if it is good or not. Need some help diagnosing the problem if it's not the slave. Any help or troubleshooting tips would be great.
Thanks again
Thanks again
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In my expieriance..........Im on my 3rd Master and 3rd slave by the way, They are either good or bad. When the pedal sticks to the floor you got yourself a hydrolic problem. Thats when its reccomended to change out both parts at the same time. If your issue is that the clutch is easy to push in thats completly normal for LS1 cars. You may not be use to a set up like this. Its nothing to worry about it. Let me ask you this, Do you have any issues getting it in or out of gear at high rpm? If your answer is no then your golden.
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just got the car and reservoir was empty. put some fluid in and it seems way to easy to push the peddle in. Have not tried to start it and see if it works. What is the bleed procedure to install fluid and charge/bleed clutch master?
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Fill the reservoir, pump the pedal then hold it while opening the bleeder. Its just like bleeding brakes. be sure to keep the reservoir full. If you removed the braided line from the slave you need to reconnect it. That will remove air from the entire system.
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If reservoir is empty, leak somewhere probaly.
OK, to bleed. Some people say pump, some say other. Here is what I do (and helps if you have remote bleeder or extra pair of hands)
Get car up up jackstands. Top res. off with fluid. Have someone on teh bleeder. Push down/apply pressure to pedal (but I do not pump) and hold pressure. Crack bleeder. Pedal will travel to floor. Right before it does, close bleeder. Release pedal. Apply pressure to pedal again. Open bleeder. Close bleeder.
Now, after 3 or 4 times of this. Check fluid level as it will go fast. Repeat these steps until you have a good solid firm pedal along with no air/spitting out the bleeder.
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Oh also, how to diagnose MC or slave. Well, in all likely hood, if one is bad, it is in your best interest to change both. BUT, since the slave is more difficult to change, I would change MC first to see if fixes problem. If not, then change slave. If it does, great.
Other than that, I know of no way to single out a MC or slave to see if one or the other is the culprit (unless one of them is leaking of course).
As to check one individually, some type of bench equipment would be needed to apply pressure/check pressure/fluid volume etc.. to determine good/bad, and I am not aware of any equipment like that in most shops. Safe to assume there IS that type of equipment, but probaly a manufacturer of hydraulics use it to test them before they go out the door (or to test a defective one when one comes back???
)
Other than that, I know of no way to single out a MC or slave to see if one or the other is the culprit (unless one of them is leaking of course).
As to check one individually, some type of bench equipment would be needed to apply pressure/check pressure/fluid volume etc.. to determine good/bad, and I am not aware of any equipment like that in most shops. Safe to assume there IS that type of equipment, but probaly a manufacturer of hydraulics use it to test them before they go out the door (or to test a defective one when one comes back???
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