need some opinions, advise on clutch or slave change?
09-25-2009, 07:44 AM
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need some opinions, advise on clutch or slave change? okay heres some background....
2002 trans am, stock transmission, dont know what kind of clutch is in the car....bought it used a year ago with 95000 miles on it....
could be a stock ls6 clutch or something else??? car had full bolt-on when bought with gears and everything.......so......
car ran fine as is, shifted fine as is, raced it fine as is....took the car in a few months ago and did 243 heads, ms4 cam, lifters, injectors, pulley etc....dynoed at 398rwhp....
as the guy was working on the car he said the slave was leaking, he didnt pull the tranny from the motor, just called and said it was leaking, not bad, but was....it has never and is still not dripping on the floor at all!!!! once i got the car back it now has the dreaded pedal sticking to the floor problem!!!! bought a new master and changed it, bought a mity vac and bled it till no bubbles and good clutch feel. will drive perfect just cruising around, but still has the sticking pedal....
i have read over and over, change the slave, but i have also found some threads saying that the pp plate could be the problem if its not stout enough to handle the hp??? so now that i am done with the motor for a bit, i am tight on money....what do i do? save up and do the clutch and slave, is the slave even the problem, or do i just take a chance and change the slave and leave the clutch alone? can a ls6 clutch take 400hp? it does not slip or anything at this time? thanks in advance
2002 trans am, stock transmission, dont know what kind of clutch is in the car....bought it used a year ago with 95000 miles on it....
could be a stock ls6 clutch or something else??? car had full bolt-on when bought with gears and everything.......so......
car ran fine as is, shifted fine as is, raced it fine as is....took the car in a few months ago and did 243 heads, ms4 cam, lifters, injectors, pulley etc....dynoed at 398rwhp....
as the guy was working on the car he said the slave was leaking, he didnt pull the tranny from the motor, just called and said it was leaking, not bad, but was....it has never and is still not dripping on the floor at all!!!! once i got the car back it now has the dreaded pedal sticking to the floor problem!!!! bought a new master and changed it, bought a mity vac and bled it till no bubbles and good clutch feel. will drive perfect just cruising around, but still has the sticking pedal....
i have read over and over, change the slave, but i have also found some threads saying that the pp plate could be the problem if its not stout enough to handle the hp??? so now that i am done with the motor for a bit, i am tight on money....what do i do? save up and do the clutch and slave, is the slave even the problem, or do i just take a chance and change the slave and leave the clutch alone? can a ls6 clutch take 400hp? it does not slip or anything at this time? thanks in advance
09-25-2009, 08:04 AM
#2
It does sound hydraulic related, it very well could be a bad slave at that mileage. I pulled my oem slave at 58k and it would stick a little when trying to compress it on the bench..however the car had a spec 3 which has a higher spring pressure so I'm sure that helped force it back. My stock slave was sticking on my 98 z28 at 45k.
But I'm curious how he knows it's leaking w/o pulling the trans since you cant see it and there is no inspection cover..
But I'm curious how he knows it's leaking w/o pulling the trans since you cant see it and there is no inspection cover..
09-25-2009, 08:12 AM
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yeah me too, lol.........maybe a little dust sticking the bottom of the bell housing? either way it has never dripped one drop on the floor since the day i bought it!!!! what gets me is that is was fine before the motor work then it starts sticking??? so that is why im 50-50 on slave or clutch not being able to handle the power???
09-25-2009, 08:43 AM
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Well, what I CAN tell you is this...since you replaced MC, and did not fix, and you have a hydraulic issue, can only be 1 of 2 things now. Bad slave or air in system.
If you feel comfortable in your bleeding, then that leaves bad slave.
End of story.
Now, would I leave teh clutch in after yanking tranny to replace slave? No.
But, if low on money, then since all you have to do is yank teh tranny, and NOT the bellhousing, clutch/pp/disc, etc....then not that big of a deal.
BUT, if you do decide to go clutch, you can look at our (Monster) Level 2 for your setup. You can check out my site below for pricing and info, or call or PM/email me.
Thanks!
If you feel comfortable in your bleeding, then that leaves bad slave.
End of story.
Now, would I leave teh clutch in after yanking tranny to replace slave? No.
But, if low on money, then since all you have to do is yank teh tranny, and NOT the bellhousing, clutch/pp/disc, etc....then not that big of a deal.
BUT, if you do decide to go clutch, you can look at our (Monster) Level 2 for your setup. You can check out my site below for pricing and info, or call or PM/email me.
Thanks!
09-25-2009, 09:54 AM
#5
Wasn't there a recent thread with screamin z or something where he was having trouble shifting at WOT but it was great around town and he bled and bled it for over a month, replacing the master and slave cylinder and nothing worked and it ended up being the Pressure Plate of his Monster Clutch? Could be the Pressure Plate right? It also stated in the thread Monster has fixed the problem as well so no worries there if you're looking for a new clutch.
09-25-2009, 10:57 AM
#6
Gen has the diagnosis correct (This is most likely a slave or air issue) and I would agress that ruling the master out would be ok relative to its newness (of course stranger things have happened).
M2G if you pull the assembly and want me to put some eyes on the parts currently in use post them here or send them to me in email. You will also want to measure the thickness of the stock disc as this can provide insight into overall disc wear. I'm happy to assist you either way.
As for your question about the plate it's possible I suppose but generally speaking it's unlikely. In most instances where a plate is damaged or broken it won't allow you to shift at all because it can't actuate properly. Please let me know if you need anything else. Thanks,
M2G if you pull the assembly and want me to put some eyes on the parts currently in use post them here or send them to me in email. You will also want to measure the thickness of the stock disc as this can provide insight into overall disc wear. I'm happy to assist you either way.
As for your question about the plate it's possible I suppose but generally speaking it's unlikely. In most instances where a plate is damaged or broken it won't allow you to shift at all because it can't actuate properly. Please let me know if you need anything else. Thanks,
09-25-2009, 03:54 PM
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Wasn't there a recent thread with screamin z or something where he was having trouble shifting at WOT but it was great around town and he bled and bled it for over a month, replacing the master and slave cylinder and nothing worked and it ended up being the Pressure Plate of his Monster Clutch? Could be the Pressure Plate right? It also stated in the thread Monster has fixed the problem as well so no worries there if you're looking for a new clutch.
Well, not being able to shift at high RPM (other thread) and a pedal that sticks to teh floor under normal driving (this thread) are 2 different things though.
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09-25-2009, 03:55 PM
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Gen has the diagnosis correct (This is most likely a slave or air issue) and I would agress that ruling the master out would be ok relative to its newness (of course stranger things have happened).
M2G if you pull the assembly and want me to put some eyes on the parts currently in use post them here or send them to me in email. You will also want to measure the thickness of the stock disc as this can provide insight into overall disc wear. I'm happy to assist you either way.
As for your question about the plate it's possible I suppose but generally speaking it's unlikely. In most instances where a plate is damaged or broken it won't allow you to shift at all because it can't actuate properly. Please let me know if you need anything else. Thanks,
M2G if you pull the assembly and want me to put some eyes on the parts currently in use post them here or send them to me in email. You will also want to measure the thickness of the stock disc as this can provide insight into overall disc wear. I'm happy to assist you either way.
As for your question about the plate it's possible I suppose but generally speaking it's unlikely. In most instances where a plate is damaged or broken it won't allow you to shift at all because it can't actuate properly. Please let me know if you need anything else. Thanks,
Hey Spec..did you get my "other" email?? The one AFTER the most recent?? (not sure that makes sense????)
09-25-2009, 07:05 PM
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sorry should have specified that as well.........it drives fine under normal driving, it only sticks to the floor when floored, works great 1-2 shift, little stiff to get to the 3rd then the pedal is on the floor for 4th.........
09-26-2009, 11:07 AM
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Well, that is DEFINITELY hydraulic related, and one that even all new parts, might not cure. How is that you ask???
Well, under teh details from above, it is simply a matter of not having enough fluid being supplied by the stock MC. Our hydro's are a known weak link, and what happens after repeated shifts, teh MC can not keep up with the fluid demand. So, pedal end's up on teh floor.
Here is what you can do to find out 100% if that is your problem.
You say that by the time you hit 4th gear, pedal is on floor. Soooooo, go out, and SLOWLY get your car up to speed..ok, now that you are in 3rd gear, wait a few seconds or so (waiting for fluid to "recover") and THEN, floor it, and grab 4th as quick as you can. I bet you that you are able to hit 4th just fine doing that method there. And, if so, you have a stock MC that jsut can't keep up with fluid demand, and you have 1 of 2 options at this point.
Drill mod (band aid fix, but IS a fix)
Or buy aftermarket MC (TICK, ram, etc...)
