When I start my car up after it has been off for a while the clutch will be lower than it usually is and i wont be able to get into gear until i pull the clutch up with my foot. It also lowers a bit if i've been driving in one gear consistently. (highway 6th gear). It has a tick adj master and when we put that in we bench bled that and it seemed to work fine. Does this sound like there is air in the system still and i need to bleed it?

 

Relapse, you could be having an issue with air in the system and this is where I would start in regards to trouble shooting. Check the fluid in the reservoir for discoloration. If the fluid id dark or cloudy then I suggest flushing and refilling it with a good high BP fluid, I recommend Motul RBF-600 fluid. I also suggest that you check the routing of your hydraulic line as it passed your header; it should be routed behind the heat-sheild. If it isn't routed properly then fix that and wrap the line with a nice heat wrap to better insulate it. Let me know what you find and I will be happy to assist you further. Thanks,

 

thanks ill check that out tomorrow when i go home. Can i buy the motul in stores or is it something i have to get online?

 

I always order it from one of the teams that we sponsor...so I haven't really looked for it. That being said you might be able to find it locally, but if not there are lots of other higher rated boiling point fluids available. Do you have a performance shop nearby? Give them a call and see what they have! Or of course you can always order it online too. Let me know if you need anything else. Thanks,

 

i have a 98 z28 and i have a similar problem. when the car is cold and i use the clutch to put it in gear the clutch will drop completely to the floor and stay there. sometimes it will work for about a qaurter mile then drop. sometimes if i pump the pedal it will come back to life and sometimes i will have to add fluid. is this a leak?

 

my clutch will also drop sometimes if i am redlined in first and go to grab second even when i am off the gas. ????

 

do the drill mod. not enoigh fluid is flowing and will cause the pedal to stick in the upper RPM'. also, flush fluid and bleed completely

flush fluid and bleed completely

 

bled the system, went from black fluid to clear fluid using castrol dot3/4 fluid. pedal has noticeably better pressure, but when the car is cold it still doesnt want to go into gear. When the car is cold it wont be low anymore really but just won't go into gear.

ideas?

BTW i didnt see a heat shield between my hydro line and the headers. its just the black rubber line and then the headers. I ordered some heat reflective wrap and am gonna wrap it this weekend.

 

Were the lines just routed outside the heat-sheld or was there not a heat-sheild there? Reroute the lines behind the shield as they pass the header (as long as it is there) and wrap them too. This will greatly reduce the chances of boiling the fluid again!

The fact that it is still hard to get into gear when cold, but that the pedal doesn't stick, could evidnece that the slave or master are simply weak as a result of heat and use. It may be time for new hydraulics.

 

yeah, im thinking its the slave. I didn't put in a new one when i did the clutch about 20k ago cause of money constraints (also the reason im running an ebay clutch now), I have a tick master so i think i can rule that out cause that piece is relatively new.

Don't remember exactly, but do you have to pull the tranny to replace the slave?

Cause when i did it in my garage last winter, i just replaced clutch, and flywheel.

 

If you have to add fluid then you have a leak in either your slave or m/c. something has a weak seal.

Yes you do have to drop the tranny to get to the slave.