Rear bushing...T56
11-07-2009, 09:35 PM
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Rear bushing...T56 How hard is it to replace the rear bushing just behind the seal on my car(2001 WS6)? I just had the trans out, I replaced the rear seal while it was out, and made a thread discussing the type of seal I had, (never seen it before) and the bushing that came with it. Most people said if it aint broke dont fix it, just replace the seal if it was leaking, well, its broke. I only replaced the seal, took the car out for a spin and fluid is pouring out the rear housing with a brand new seal installed. I saw the bushing in there when I did the seal, and didnt attempt to remove and replace it. What needs to be done?
11-07-2009, 09:55 PM
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Just unbolt the rear extension housing and press out and press in a new bushing.
What brand of seal did you go with? Go with GM. When mine leaked, went to Autozone and got a duralast one, put it on and it still leaked. Went to GM got an OEM one, stoped leaking.
What brand of seal did you go with? Go with GM. When mine leaked, went to Autozone and got a duralast one, put it on and it still leaked. Went to GM got an OEM one, stoped leaking.
11-07-2009, 10:09 PM
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I am not sure of the brand, it was purchased at o'reillys auto though. I think it was a timekin(sp?) So I have to unbolt the housing? Will I have to pull the trans to do this? Or can I just pull the trans brace and lean it back some? Also, what should I press it out with? Is it hard to get out?
11-07-2009, 10:55 PM
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After some research I think I will pull the rear housing and take it to a shop and have them press out and in the new bushing. Now I am only concerned with how hard it is to pull the rear housing with the trans in the car.
11-10-2009, 03:56 PM
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Scratch the above statements. I did it myself, I pulled the housing, removed the rear bushing, and pressed in a new one. It still ******* leaks, I am beyond pissed at this point. I guess I am gonna have to put the ****** in the shop. I never pay anyone to do anything to my car
11-10-2009, 07:41 PM
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I also didn't say I am on my 2nd drive shaft. I had a 9" with one driveshaft and it leaked, swapped to a different rear, different driveshaft, and a brand new bushing and seal and it still leaks. the car I got the other driveshaft from had zero issues as far as leaking is concerned. so I don't think its the driveshaft, went through 2 now
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11-10-2009, 08:00 PM
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I also didn't say I am on my 2nd drive shaft. I had a 9" with one driveshaft and it leaked, swapped to a different rear, different driveshaft, and a brand new bushing and seal and it still leaks. the car I got the other driveshaft from had zero issues as far as leaking is concerned. so I don't think its the driveshaft, went through 2 now
11-10-2009, 09:44 PM
#10
Not saying you don't know what you are doing. But any chance you may have messed the seal up when installing it? It is easy to damage when putting it in.
Need to check the diameter on the yolk where it goes in the transmission. Make sure it isn't wore.
Need to check the diameter on the yolk where it goes in the transmission. Make sure it isn't wore.
11-11-2009, 10:07 AM
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How much needs to be? Then length hasnt changed. It all started when I had the 9" in there, with stock drive shaft, worked fine for several years, then just all of a sudden started. I have adj lca's that have been set the same for a while with no issues. In fact, when I bolted up some 28' slicks I had to pull the rear forward because of clearance issues with the tires and rear fenders. I parked the car for a while, did a motor swap, sold the 9" and went back to a 10 bolt, and figured while everything was out I would just replace the seal since I can do it right in front of me on the ground. I did that, borrowed a shaft from a buddy down the road that would hook up to the 10 bolt and it still leaks, BAD. He had no problems with his yoke on his when he pulled it. He just had it laying around. Now, with the 10 bolt, the rear actually needs to be pulled back about 1" if I want the tires perfectly centered in the wheel well, which I havent done. The brackets on the 9" can differ slightly from a 10 bolt making the rear sit back a tad.
Its extremely unlikely I damaged the seal installing it. I have done many crank seals and rear mains and never had an issue. I even did this seal while I had the trans out right in front of me, went in perfectly. I dont have a caliper to measure it, I guess I need to pick one up. Anyway, after pulling the trans and rear housing several times and still leaking, I think I am gonna go talk to a trans shop this afternoon if I have time and see what they charge for a bushing and seal install. That way if it leaks I can bring it back to them and let them deal with it. I also dont have a lift so I am sick of getting under the car. This will be the first time I have ever put my car in the shop, I can do heads, cam, boltons, motor swaps, rear ends, suspension, but this leak is kicking my *** 
. I would drive about 2 miles come home drive the car on a ramp and look. Fluid would be dripping of my ds loop and chassis mount torque arm mount. Its like its spraying out of there while driving
. I would drive about 2 miles come home drive the car on a ramp and look. Fluid would be dripping of my ds loop and chassis mount torque arm mount. Its like its spraying out of there while driving
11-11-2009, 11:51 AM
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You need enough yoke inside the unit to be fully supported by the tail housing bushing. You also need to make sure that you have about 3/4"-1" available on the out side to slide in under acceleration.
11-11-2009, 12:38 PM
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I went by the trans shop on the way to work to talk to them. I am gonna try to bring it by there sometime in the next couple of days. I am gonnahave them redo the bushing and the seal and go from there, should fix it. If not I will get a new yoke or maybe see if its out of spec
04-18-2010, 01:03 PM
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taws6m6,
Did you ever get this figured out? I have similar issue and took to the trans shop for the outer seal replace. It leaked afterwards and need to got to the next step.
Awhile back I had the OEM driveshaft balanced and the moron cut it open, took out the carbboard insert, and welded it back up with massive amounts of welding. I had leaks since then. I asked him why he did that when the order states "balance only" and I told him that's all I needed. He was just driving up the price.
MR
Did you ever get this figured out? I have similar issue and took to the trans shop for the outer seal replace. It leaked afterwards and need to got to the next step.
Awhile back I had the OEM driveshaft balanced and the moron cut it open, took out the carbboard insert, and welded it back up with massive amounts of welding. I had leaks since then. I asked him why he did that when the order states "balance only" and I told him that's all I needed. He was just driving up the price.
MR
04-20-2010, 03:10 PM
#16
taws6m6,
Did you ever get this figured out? I have similar issue and took to the trans shop for the outer seal replace. It leaked afterwards and need to got to the next step.
Awhile back I had the OEM driveshaft balanced and the moron cut it open, took out the carbboard insert, and welded it back up with massive amounts of welding. I had leaks since then. I asked him why he did that when the order states "balance only" and I told him that's all I needed. He was just driving up the price.
MR
Did you ever get this figured out? I have similar issue and took to the trans shop for the outer seal replace. It leaked afterwards and need to got to the next step.
Awhile back I had the OEM driveshaft balanced and the moron cut it open, took out the carbboard insert, and welded it back up with massive amounts of welding. I had leaks since then. I asked him why he did that when the order states "balance only" and I told him that's all I needed. He was just driving up the price.
MR
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