Tick master adjustment
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 121
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From: Central Florida
Tick master adjustment I had my Tick master and Monster clutch installed by a shop and my clutch lets out to high for my taste. How do I adjust it so it grabs earlier and where do I find it . Looked underneath couldn't see the master.
You'll have to remove the two plastic panels underneath the steering wheel to get to the adjustable linkage - there will be two phillips head and two 7mm hex head screws holding the first panel, and two push pins (christmas tree plugs) holding the panel above the pedals in place. Get those out of the way, and you should have no problem seeing where to adjust the master cylinder/clutch pedal.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 121
Likes: 0
From: Central Florida
You'll have to remove the two plastic panels underneath the steering wheel to get to the adjustable linkage - there will be two phillips head and two 7mm hex head screws holding the first panel, and two push pins (christmas tree plugs) holding the panel above the pedals in place. Get those out of the way, and you should have no problem seeing where to adjust the master cylinder/clutch pedal.
I don't think you want to make that adjustment. From the Tick FAQ:
A: Our Tick Performance Adjustable Clutch Master Cylinder Kit uses a bigger bore than your factory master cylinder in order to flow more fluid. As a result of this, your pedal pressure will increase by ~15%. This is a GOOD increase that results in a much better feel for the clutch.
When you adjust our kit, you're actually adjusting the amount of fluid that the system flows. As a result, your clutch pedal could be noticeably shorter than it was with the factory cylinder - this just depends on your particular clutch setup. This is another GOOD feature because it results in quicker shifting.
You'll notice that the car goes into gear much easier than before, and shifting will be much more smooth as well.
A: Our Tick Performance Adjustable Clutch Master Cylinder Kit is the most comprehensive kit on the market. It flows more fluid than any other kit, is more adjustable than any other kit, and you get more for your money with our kit compared to any other kit on the market.
With our kit, we call it adjustable because you're actually adjusting the amount of fluid that the sytem flows. You've likely seen people modify their stock master cylinder to be "adjustable" - unfortunately, all you can adjust with this setup is the dead space in the pedal. There is no way to make the factory cylinder flow significantly more fluid. The RAM Adjustable Clutch Master Cylinder for the F-Body and Corvette is simply a modified stock master cylinder. This will not cure any serious clutch disengagement issues.
I understand that the adjustment is done so that the slave moves properly and that adjusting after the install could cause your clutch to drag.
A: Our Tick Performance Adjustable Clutch Master Cylinder Kit uses a bigger bore than your factory master cylinder in order to flow more fluid. As a result of this, your pedal pressure will increase by ~15%. This is a GOOD increase that results in a much better feel for the clutch.
When you adjust our kit, you're actually adjusting the amount of fluid that the system flows. As a result, your clutch pedal could be noticeably shorter than it was with the factory cylinder - this just depends on your particular clutch setup. This is another GOOD feature because it results in quicker shifting.
You'll notice that the car goes into gear much easier than before, and shifting will be much more smooth as well.
A: Our Tick Performance Adjustable Clutch Master Cylinder Kit is the most comprehensive kit on the market. It flows more fluid than any other kit, is more adjustable than any other kit, and you get more for your money with our kit compared to any other kit on the market.
With our kit, we call it adjustable because you're actually adjusting the amount of fluid that the sytem flows. You've likely seen people modify their stock master cylinder to be "adjustable" - unfortunately, all you can adjust with this setup is the dead space in the pedal. There is no way to make the factory cylinder flow significantly more fluid. The RAM Adjustable Clutch Master Cylinder for the F-Body and Corvette is simply a modified stock master cylinder. This will not cure any serious clutch disengagement issues.
I understand that the adjustment is done so that the slave moves properly and that adjusting after the install could cause your clutch to drag.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 121
Likes: 0
From: Central Florida
I don't think you want to make that adjustment. From the Tick FAQ:
A: Our Tick Performance Adjustable Clutch Master Cylinder Kit uses a bigger bore than your factory master cylinder in order to flow more fluid. As a result of this, your pedal pressure will increase by ~15%. This is a GOOD increase that results in a much better feel for the clutch.
When you adjust our kit, you're actually adjusting the amount of fluid that the system flows. As a result, your clutch pedal could be noticeably shorter than it was with the factory cylinder - this just depends on your particular clutch setup. This is another GOOD feature because it results in quicker shifting.
You'll notice that the car goes into gear much easier than before, and shifting will be much more smooth as well.
A: Our Tick Performance Adjustable Clutch Master Cylinder Kit is the most comprehensive kit on the market. It flows more fluid than any other kit, is more adjustable than any other kit, and you get more for your money with our kit compared to any other kit on the market.
With our kit, we call it adjustable because you're actually adjusting the amount of fluid that the sytem flows. You've likely seen people modify their stock master cylinder to be "adjustable" - unfortunately, all you can adjust with this setup is the dead space in the pedal. There is no way to make the factory cylinder flow significantly more fluid. The RAM Adjustable Clutch Master Cylinder for the F-Body and Corvette is simply a modified stock master cylinder. This will not cure any serious clutch disengagement issues.
I understand that the adjustment is done so that the slave moves properly and that adjusting after the install could cause your clutch to drag.
A: Our Tick Performance Adjustable Clutch Master Cylinder Kit uses a bigger bore than your factory master cylinder in order to flow more fluid. As a result of this, your pedal pressure will increase by ~15%. This is a GOOD increase that results in a much better feel for the clutch.
When you adjust our kit, you're actually adjusting the amount of fluid that the system flows. As a result, your clutch pedal could be noticeably shorter than it was with the factory cylinder - this just depends on your particular clutch setup. This is another GOOD feature because it results in quicker shifting.
You'll notice that the car goes into gear much easier than before, and shifting will be much more smooth as well.
A: Our Tick Performance Adjustable Clutch Master Cylinder Kit is the most comprehensive kit on the market. It flows more fluid than any other kit, is more adjustable than any other kit, and you get more for your money with our kit compared to any other kit on the market.
With our kit, we call it adjustable because you're actually adjusting the amount of fluid that the sytem flows. You've likely seen people modify their stock master cylinder to be "adjustable" - unfortunately, all you can adjust with this setup is the dead space in the pedal. There is no way to make the factory cylinder flow significantly more fluid. The RAM Adjustable Clutch Master Cylinder for the F-Body and Corvette is simply a modified stock master cylinder. This will not cure any serious clutch disengagement issues.
I understand that the adjustment is done so that the slave moves properly and that adjusting after the install could cause your clutch to drag.
Now I confused because I still have alot of dead space in my pedal. The first half of my travel is nothing. The clutch doesn't start to grab untill half way out. I thought that I could make it engage earlier by adjusting but from what that says it will only adjust the amount of fluid that is moved. My car doesn't seem to shift any easier or go into gear any easier neither. I haven't hit a full throttle shift yet though still breaking in .
Do you happen to have a Mity Vac to see if there is some trapped air in the clutch lines? Or a the Tick speed bleeder? My clutch starts to grab move as soon as the pedal is coming off the floor and it fully engaged by 3/4 way up. The is prolly a inch to a inch and a half of play at the top of the pedal from resting to pedal feel.
I dont think you are going to achive what you are lookin to do, by adjusting your clutch pedal to get a different engagement area. Adjusting the rod is going to send more fluid to the slave pushing the pressure plate off the disk farther which will make it easier to get into gears and save your sycros.
What clutch setup are you running, you may want to compare it to someone with a much similar setup like your first,.
I dont think you are going to achive what you are lookin to do, by adjusting your clutch pedal to get a different engagement area. Adjusting the rod is going to send more fluid to the slave pushing the pressure plate off the disk farther which will make it easier to get into gears and save your sycros.
What clutch setup are you running, you may want to compare it to someone with a much similar setup like your first,.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 121
Likes: 0
From: Central Florida
No mighty vac or speed bleeder. Clutch is a monster stage 2. I don't think that air is trapped in the line it was installed by a reputable shop. Pedal is firm but lets out late.
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Now I confused because I still have alot of dead space in my pedal. The first half of my travel is nothing. The clutch doesn't start to grab untill half way out. I thought that I could make it engage earlier by adjusting but from what that says it will only adjust the amount of fluid that is moved. My car doesn't seem to shift any easier or go into gear any easier neither. I haven't hit a full throttle shift yet though still breaking in .
This sounds a lot like normal behavior and how my Tick master feels.
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Verdad Gallardo Was the clutch pedal spring left in place after the install? It's the spring that keeps the pedal pushed up when the clutch is engaged, and keeps the pedal on the floor when the pedal is disengaged. If that spring is still in place on the pedal, that can cause some dead space in the pedal travel because the spring will pull the pedal up as high as it can go, even beyond what the clutch is already pushing it. That's why Tick recommends removing the pedal spring...if the shop doesn't remember whether or not this was done, you'll need to crawl under there yourself.
And honestly, I'd still try doing some more bleeding. Even with the pedal return spring still installed with my Tick master, the dead space is what I would consider minimal, but that took bench bleeding and bleeding with a Motive Power Bleeder (and I also worked it over with a MityVac just to make sure).
And honestly, I'd still try doing some more bleeding. Even with the pedal return spring still installed with my Tick master, the dead space is what I would consider minimal, but that took bench bleeding and bleeding with a Motive Power Bleeder (and I also worked it over with a MityVac just to make sure).
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 121
Likes: 0
From: Central Florida
I'll have to look and see if the spring is still in there. If it is can I just pull it out. The pedal sits as high as it did when it was stock. The stock pedal had dead space at the top. The new clutch and Tick have dead space at the bottom. When the pedal is on the floor and I start to let it out it doesn't grab untill the pedal is half way up. I don't like the way it feels. Last night on the way home from work it started to squeek and creek as I push the pedal in and out. Driving me nuts.
I'll have to look and see if the spring is still in there. If it is can I just pull it out. The pedal sits as high as it did when it was stock. The stock pedal had dead space at the top. The new clutch and Tick have dead space at the bottom. When the pedal is on the floor and I start to let it out it doesn't grab untill the pedal is half way up. I don't like the way it feels. Last night on the way home from work it started to squeek and creek as I push the pedal in and out. Driving me nuts.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 121
Likes: 0
From: Central Florida
