schmendog

iTrader: (10)

Hey guys,

In the market for a new clutch since Im getting a lot of work done to my 04 GOAT this week. Currently making 450 RWHP, and plan on more gains in the future. Whats the best clutch in your opinion? Looking for specifics and why (metal types/ brands/ etc..)

Heres a quote from RAM (Sintered iron provides a degree of slippage on vehicle launch to prevent the violent and uncontrollable engagement characteristics of paddle type metallic discs). Im no expert but this sounds to me like a bad thing, sure its better for the car, but it sounds like this feature would take away from your performance, am I wrong?

BarneyMobile

iTrader: (4)

It really depends on what you plan to do with the car (drag race, drift, dd etc.) Sintered iron will slip alittle on the launch only. This helps to keep the tires planted. Sintered iron clutches are abit too rough for street use for most people. You may want to look into a twin disc clutch. They're tend to be much more streetable while holding big power then some of these exotic single disc clutches.

jc98ss

iTrader: (13)

my next will be a Monster, probably a level 3 or 4.....they have a reputation for being extremely tough, just make sure you buy new ARP flywheel and pressure plate bolts....

redtail2426

iTrader: (10)

monster stage 3 gets my vote,they Fu%&$% GRAB.Make sure your drivetrain is up to it,if theres a part thats too weak,the monster clutch will find it for you

Regulator

iTrader: (7)

x2 on the Monster clutch, that's who I plan to go with once this stocker starts to give up on me

Sargeant Sh!tbag

iTrader: (3)

Monster is an amazing clutch but if you have the money I would suggest a Ram Twin Disc..

"Have your cake and eat it too"

Amazing streetability with 2x the clamping power of a stage 3 grabby single disc..

SPEC-01

iTrader: (2)

I would not suggest a Sintered Iron disc for a car making this type of power. In fact, to be completely honest it is simply overkill. Sintered Iron discs have a tendency to wear faster than other materials types especially when used on cars that see street use too. I would suggest a good carbon-semi-metallic disc like our Stage 3 or Stage 3+. Based on the compounds we use the Stage 3, which is a puck-type disc, is actually quite progressive and easily able to handle your current and potential output (its rated to over 800lb.-ft at the crank). Let me know if you have any further questions. Thanks,

SNLPerformance

iTrader: (15)

At your power level a Level 2 would provide like stock engagement with it's full face carbon/organic disc yet still handle the abuse at the track. I cut a back to back to back 1.5 60' in my 404rwhp car last weekend with an 18lb flywheel. It'll hold up to 550rwhp and would run you 834.94 for a premium kit with new GTO slave and shipping. Feel free to call if you have any questions, Chris

1904gto

iTrader: (4)

I have a Diamond Clutch Stage 3, only becuase i will be spraying the car soon and hittin the track all the time. i was making passes yesturday on the street with slicks to test out the new set up after it being broken in, did 2 burnouts two hot laps and it felt great!
i Highly suggest Diamond, Jason is an honest buisness man with a great product.

schmendog

iTrader: (10)

So heres another question, If i want to run my stock clutch until it craps out, what will happen exactly? Once its done, will I be able to at least drive it back to my house, and then order the new clutch?

My main intent is daily driver with weekly street racing, and hitting the track a few times a month

schmendog

iTrader: (10)

What is the big difference between the SPEC Stage 3 and 3+? Also, a lot of companies imply that their clutches give some slippage to avoid a "harsh" take off, is this going to drop your drag times if your clutch is "slipping"

thanks for the help guys, Im still learning this stuff.

Matt@SNLPerformance

iTrader: (1)

I would order the new clutch before your old one goes completely out. At least that way you would have a new unit waiting to be installed when the old one leaves you hitching a ride from a flatbed.

Nmbr1GMfan

iTrader: (1)

Sintered iron is a race only clutch you will not like the results. The slipping only occurs for .10ths of a second only to save the driveline. I have driven stock, LS7, Spec, Monster, centerforce etc. I own a McLeod, and a GTO.

Nmbr1GMfan

iTrader: (1)

Your clutch will begin to slip and more likely will not leave you stranded. Just dont let the clutch slip enough to transfer tons of heat to the clutch hydraulics.

SPEC-01

iTrader: (2)

Slippage is typically the first indication of a clutch that has reached the end of its life. Unfortunately there is no way to know how much life is left and this could be a fairly dangerous game to play (waiting until the clutch is toast until you order).

Our Stage 3 uses a carbon-graphite-semi-metallic pucked design that actually isn't bad to drive at all! In fact over the years this unit has become more and more street friendly as a result of development. The Stage 3+ uses a full-faced (completely round) carbon-graphite-semi-metallic materials that has a higher capacity and is a bit more drivable. I actually like both of these but the 3 will be a lighter set-up in terms of rotational mass which means that it will shift a little quicker. Let me know if you have any further questions. Thanks,

TDP

iTrader: (23)

Thanks for the good word. I'd suggest the Diamond Stg 3. Good for 750hp/tq. Includes 4140 billet alloy flywheel 15lbs, and new GM style slave cyl. One year warranty. We're just about to run a new special, but for now I can do 749 shipped to your door. Or, if you don't need the flywheel and slave, we can sell the basic clutch kit for 409 shipped. Call in to place an order. Thanks

BTW - Be sure to do a lot of research, as you'll find a wealth of info about all clutches offered. Just some searches on this forum will yield a lot of good info on Diamond Clutch as well as others.

mtuggle86

iTrader: (7)

I love my stage 2 TDP clutch