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Bleeding hydraulic system, fluid coming out, no pedal pressure

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Old 09-13-2012, 10:44 PM
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Default Bleeding hydraulic system, fluid coming out, no pedal pressure

Hey guys about a month ago I came out to my car one day and my clutch was stickin to the floor. Found a puddle of clutch fluid under the car coming from the bellhousing so I assumed it was the slave cylinder.

Changed the slave cylinder, put everything back together finally.

While bleeding the system tonight, the old fashioned way, I have yet to try new methods, I am getting fluid to come out of the bleeder screw and fluid is moving through the reservoir but I am not getting any pressure in the pedal.

Do I need to try a different method of bleeding?
What could I be doing wrong? When you bleed the slave do you have to be really fast with opening and closing the bleeder valve?


I really need advice, my car hasn't been on the road for 3 weeks now and i'm starting to really need it

Thanks guys
Old 09-14-2012, 04:23 AM
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Bleeding the old fashion way, you mean with 2 people? clutch is pumped up then pedal held down, bleeder opened, fluid comes out, bleeder closed and so the cylcle continues.
Are you sure it was the slave that was the problem.
Not sure on your cars but mine being a hybrid, the line from slave to master had a pin hole & looking under the car I assumed it was the slave as I could see fluid leaking on the ground.
Paid for a new clutch I couldn't afford to finally find it wasn't the slave. Ah well, have a new clutch on the shelf now lol.
Old 09-14-2012, 07:28 AM
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Yep I was bleeding with my friend. I pumped up the pedal, held it down, he'd open the bleeder screw, close it, and i'd start pumping the pedal again.

I am pretty sure it was the slave. The line looks good and no fluid has came out anywhere since we started bleeding it except from the bleeder screw. I might bleed the system down to the quick disconnect and then connect it to the slave and go from there
Old 09-14-2012, 07:42 AM
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mighty vac it then the traditional way.
Old 09-14-2012, 12:11 PM
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I dont have a mityvac or the money to buy one... definitely broke as a joke right now.

Would they possibly have them for rent somewhere like a rental place?
Old 09-14-2012, 12:19 PM
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Its quite possible you introduced air into the master cylinder by leaking a lot fluid through slave and reservoir was empty due to fluid loss. If this is the case, bleeding the trad way is gonna take forever unless a mityvac is used.

I would remove master and bench bleed the crap out of it til rod is rock solid when pushed in by hand.
Old 09-14-2012, 01:00 PM
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You're probably right. My fluid was really black when my Slave went bad, so in order to clean out all the fluid and the components I put the old slave quick disconnect on with part of the pipe broken off, and I ran a lot of fluid through the system to clean it all out, to kinda flush it in a way. But that also let air in .... so I probably screwed myself over by doing that?

If thats the case, then I need to bench the master, and I appreciate your input.

But what then would explain fluid coming out of the slave but no pedal? Wouldn't the master be pushing that fluid down? or?
Old 09-14-2012, 03:21 PM
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assuming your master is still in working condition, disconnect it from slave, disconnect rod from pedal and remove the two bolts holding it in. Once removed, you bench bleed it like crazy. This will help you in the bleed process big time.

When master is out, have the reservoir at the highest height and work in that rod by hand slowly in short bursts. you will see bubbles pop out reservoir hole. Make sure its always filled with fluid. Kinda put the master cyl upside down while the reservoir is still higher than everything. This will ensure bubbles go to highest point and dont get trapped in cylinder itself. When it feels hard, push the connector valve to release fluid in line that goes to slave to get air out of line. Then push rod again til its solid.
Old 09-14-2012, 03:27 PM
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Originally Posted by SteveWs6

But what then would explain fluid coming out of the slave but no pedal? Wouldn't the master be pushing that fluid down? or?
probably was letting some fluid and air mixture.

The technique that worked best for me was to put very slight pressure on pedal then open bleeder while pushing pedal to floor. Close bleeder fast when pedal reaches floor, hold pedal to floor for 3 seconds after bleeder closed then lift pedal up.
Old 09-14-2012, 03:41 PM
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Originally Posted by cbbass123
assuming your master is still in working condition, disconnect it from slave, disconnect rod from pedal and remove the two bolts holding it in. Once removed, you bench bleed it like crazy. This will help you in the bleed process big time.

When master is out, have the reservoir at the highest height and work in that rod by hand slowly in short bursts. you will see bubbles pop out reservoir hole. Make sure its always filled with fluid. Kinda put the master cyl upside down while the reservoir is still higher than everything. This will ensure bubbles go to highest point and dont get trapped in cylinder itself. When it feels hard, push the connector valve to release fluid in line that goes to slave to get air out of line. Then push rod again til its solid.
So pull the whole master out and bleed it this way? That means pull the quick disconnect, remove the heat shield, and then remove those bolts holding it in like you said, and removing it from the pedal rod correct? Then pull it out and bleed like you said?

You told me another method below the post i'm commenting on. Should I try bleeding it with the pedal first the way you said it, opening the bleeder and pushing the pedal down simulatenously in a way to kinda release air that way or should I just pull the master first and bleed it the way you said?
Old 09-14-2012, 04:09 PM
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try the bleed method if you want, but i'd pull the master n bench bleed. that way you know for sure theres no air in there. Mityvac works ok to bleed the master but will still leave some air in slave. Without the vac, i would bench then bleed the method i said. Its really annoying but once its done, its done.

I had to pull my master off 3 times in less than two weeks due to one bad master and cause didnt bench bleed one and could never get any pedal. Was real annoying.
Old 09-14-2012, 04:50 PM
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If you get the master cylinder out, which is a PITA, and can compress the rod noticeably into it, then you know there's air in it unless fluid is leaking out. Has to be air since the fluid won't compress.

I just replaced my hydraulic line and started by gravity draining the elevated reservoir through the slave disconnect to fill the line, making sure the reservoir didn't empty. Then I worked the rod gently to push bubbles up to the reservoir. Try changing the angle of the master and tapping it somewhat sharply on a bench to jar the air towards the reservoir line. Do this until you can't move the rod in, but perhaps a hair. Play with it to coax the bubbles.

After all that, reinstall and bleed as you were earlier. DON"T compress the clutch until the line is secured back on the slave. If you moved air from the master and hardened the compression, you ought to have your pedal back.

Good luck! Let us know how it goes.

BobP
Old 09-14-2012, 08:02 PM
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Well guys my dad came home with a power bleeder

....

power bleeder FTW!!

Cut a hole in the floor board to access the bleeder screw easier, hooked the hose up, loosened bleeder screw, pump pump pump spent about 10 15 minutes just doing that and refilling the reservoir and then went all out on the clutch pedal.

Then I did it the old fashioned way the power bleeder on, closing the bleeder, pumping the clutch with my hand 5 or 6 times, holding it down, and loosening bleeder valve, repeated that about 3 or 4 times and then it was stiff as a rock.

Took it for a test drive and im very pleased. Thanks for all the input and advice guys. I was not a happy camper between last night and tonight. I was so stressed out and now i'm definitely satisfied. I appreciate all the help and input. I am now an advocate of power bleeders lol



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