Strange Issue after Tick Clutch Cylinder Install
09-22-2012, 06:59 AM
#1
Launching!
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 241
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Strange Issue after Tick Clutch Cylinder Install So I installed a Tick master cylinder about 3 months ago and from the get go there was a strange issue that kept on happening.
I kind of figured it had something to do with breaking in the clutch, but since my bird has now passed 2000 miles since the install I'm starting to think it is something else entirely different.
The clutch engagement and disengagement feel for the clutch eventually sinks slowly over time until I can no longer shift.
This isn't the same issue as the sticking clutch that plagues the stock cylinders. That problem was fixed by the installation of the new cylinder, clutch, and lines, however this new problem is just as aggravating.
After every 50 miles or so, I need to hook my foot under the clutch pedal and pull it back up or else the pedal will eventually sink all the way down to the floor until I can no longer shift.
Has anyone else encountered this issue? Maybe a bad seal in the cylinder? Please help.
I kind of figured it had something to do with breaking in the clutch, but since my bird has now passed 2000 miles since the install I'm starting to think it is something else entirely different.
The clutch engagement and disengagement feel for the clutch eventually sinks slowly over time until I can no longer shift.
This isn't the same issue as the sticking clutch that plagues the stock cylinders. That problem was fixed by the installation of the new cylinder, clutch, and lines, however this new problem is just as aggravating.
After every 50 miles or so, I need to hook my foot under the clutch pedal and pull it back up or else the pedal will eventually sink all the way down to the floor until I can no longer shift.
Has anyone else encountered this issue? Maybe a bad seal in the cylinder? Please help.
09-23-2012, 08:04 AM
#3
did you remove the clutch pedal spring under the dash? I have seen these almost seen like they help hold the clutch on the floor.
Also, when you bleed the clutch, make sure you do it in this order.
1. open bleeder on slave
2. push down clutch pedal, listen for air in the line.
3. close bleeder
4. check fluid level
5. pull clutch pedal back up repeat steps if air in line.
Thats the way I have done it on 20+ cars, and on my own for 5 years now with the Tick masters and everytime its a perfect pedal.
Also, when you bleed the clutch, make sure you do it in this order.
1. open bleeder on slave
2. push down clutch pedal, listen for air in the line.
3. close bleeder
4. check fluid level
5. pull clutch pedal back up repeat steps if air in line.
Thats the way I have done it on 20+ cars, and on my own for 5 years now with the Tick masters and everytime its a perfect pedal.
11-02-2012, 06:19 PM
#6
When the pedal slowely sinks after 50 miles do you just pump the clutch a bunch to bring the pedal back to life and then it goes another 50 miles or what? How are you bringing it back to life every 50? And after about 50 miles when it starts getting close to the floor and shifting gets bad have you checked the master cylinder resavior? Is the fluid still at the full line?
11-02-2012, 08:02 PM
#7
Launching!
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 241
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
When the pedal slowely sinks after 50 miles do you just pump the clutch a bunch to bring the pedal back to life and then it goes another 50 miles or what? How are you bringing it back to life every 50? And after about 50 miles when it starts getting close to the floor and shifting gets bad have you checked the master cylinder resavior? Is the fluid still at the full line?
I didn't bench bleed the cylinder when I first got it, though I have bled it about 3 times normally already.
Trending Topics
11-02-2012, 09:09 PM
#8
Fluid in the master cylinder resavior always at the full line so we know it's not leaking? If it's fine its gotta be pulling in air somewhere. I have heard that a master or slave cylinder with a bad seal doesn't necessarily have to be leaking so that could be a valid point. Just seems like if there was a bad seal it would get crappy right away and/or stay crappy. Not last for 50+ miles slowley degrading.
11-03-2012, 10:45 PM
#9
It is possible for a master cylinder to bleed down internally without losing fluid. Pump the pedal up so that it is firm all the way to the top. Apply light pressure to the pedal....just a bit more than if you were resting your foot on the pedal, not enough to actually actuate the pressure plate however. If the master is bleeding down internally the pedal will slowly seep to the floor. This may take a minute or two. If it leaks down, you have a problem obviously.
If it leaks down (and you have a c5 or f-body) pump the pedal back up until its firm again. Disconnect the line from the slave making sure that the piston at the end of the line closes off; you don't want the fluid to escape the line/cylinder. Now go back inside and apply the same light pressure. If it leaks down again and no fluid exits the end of the line you have a master cylinder issue. Send it back for warranty. If it doesn't leak down, you have a slave problem. This can't be tested on GTO's with our master unless a -4 plug is screwed into the end of the line because they do not use the same style of quick disconnect fitting.
If it leaks down (and you have a c5 or f-body) pump the pedal back up until its firm again. Disconnect the line from the slave making sure that the piston at the end of the line closes off; you don't want the fluid to escape the line/cylinder. Now go back inside and apply the same light pressure. If it leaks down again and no fluid exits the end of the line you have a master cylinder issue. Send it back for warranty. If it doesn't leak down, you have a slave problem. This can't be tested on GTO's with our master unless a -4 plug is screwed into the end of the line because they do not use the same style of quick disconnect fitting.
11-04-2012, 12:23 AM
#10
It is possible for a master cylinder to bleed down internally without losing fluid. Pump the pedal up so that it is firm all the way to the top. Apply light pressure to the pedal....just a bit more than if you were resting your foot on the pedal, not enough to actually actuate the pressure plate however. If the master is bleeding down internally the pedal will slowly seep to the floor. This may take a minute or two. If it leaks down, you have a problem obviously.
If it leaks down (and you have a c5 or f-body) pump the pedal back up until its firm again. Disconnect the line from the slave making sure that the piston at the end of the line closes off; you don't want the fluid to escape the line/cylinder. Now go back inside and apply the same light pressure. If it leaks down again and no fluid exits the end of the line you have a master cylinder issue. Send it back for warranty. If it doesn't leak down, you have a slave problem. This can't be tested on GTO's with our master unless a -4 plug is screwed into the end of the line because they do not use the same style of quick disconnect fitting.
If it leaks down (and you have a c5 or f-body) pump the pedal back up until its firm again. Disconnect the line from the slave making sure that the piston at the end of the line closes off; you don't want the fluid to escape the line/cylinder. Now go back inside and apply the same light pressure. If it leaks down again and no fluid exits the end of the line you have a master cylinder issue. Send it back for warranty. If it doesn't leak down, you have a slave problem. This can't be tested on GTO's with our master unless a -4 plug is screwed into the end of the line because they do not use the same style of quick disconnect fitting.
11-04-2012, 06:34 PM
#11
Launching!
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 241
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It is possible for a master cylinder to bleed down internally without losing fluid. Pump the pedal up so that it is firm all the way to the top. Apply light pressure to the pedal....just a bit more than if you were resting your foot on the pedal, not enough to actually actuate the pressure plate however. If the master is bleeding down internally the pedal will slowly seep to the floor. This may take a minute or two. If it leaks down, you have a problem obviously.
If it leaks down (and you have a c5 or f-body) pump the pedal back up until its firm again. Disconnect the line from the slave making sure that the piston at the end of the line closes off; you don't want the fluid to escape the line/cylinder. Now go back inside and apply the same light pressure. If it leaks down again and no fluid exits the end of the line you have a master cylinder issue. Send it back for warranty. If it doesn't leak down, you have a slave problem. This can't be tested on GTO's with our master unless a -4 plug is screwed into the end of the line because they do not use the same style of quick disconnect fitting.
If it leaks down (and you have a c5 or f-body) pump the pedal back up until its firm again. Disconnect the line from the slave making sure that the piston at the end of the line closes off; you don't want the fluid to escape the line/cylinder. Now go back inside and apply the same light pressure. If it leaks down again and no fluid exits the end of the line you have a master cylinder issue. Send it back for warranty. If it doesn't leak down, you have a slave problem. This can't be tested on GTO's with our master unless a -4 plug is screwed into the end of the line because they do not use the same style of quick disconnect fitting.
